Canyoning Season!

The water flows in most of the area canyons are starting to taper off. We took a trip down Portland Creek this last week, and it was in very fun condition.

Mooses Tooth 2010

Had a great trip with Fabio from Italy the first week of May. we flew into the Root Canal glacier with high hopes of tagging a few classic routes. Ham and Eggs was in great shape, but Shaken and others weren't quite that well formed. There were a number of teams in line to climb, but we knew we would be pretty quick, so we got up at 2:30 on our third day and headed to the base.

Fabio is a super solid alpinist with a number of demanding routes in the Alps under his belt. Alaska is a bit of a different ball game, but he quickly made the adjustments and was firing like a veteran in no time.

I started us out on the first 3 pitched to set the tempo, and then turned over the lead to Fabio. He ran up the lower snow pitches and then proceeded to fire out the crux ice lead in fine style.


In no time at all we were at the col, and then the summit. We tracked a fine line up the summit ridge, and were basking in the glow of success in eight hours from our departure. 20 or so rappels later we were sunbathing on the glacier and drinking beer.

We had on more fine day of weather, which we used to go up the Incisor and have a closer look at Shaken. It didn't look that great, but we figure we would investigate anyway. But the weather had other ideas. We got a couple feet of snow the next 2 days. I was glad Fabio got the Full Alaska Adventure. as the clouds cleared we stomped out a runway for the TAT Otter, made the call, and flew out to Talkeetna.
It was an excellent trip with great company! Grazie Fabio!

Cheers, CC

Ice Park - End of Season

Today is Closing Day for the ice park, though the ice itself still looks pretty good overall! The bottom is getting pretty tricky to move around in though. Went up to see if anything was coming in on the Ribbon, no change so far, still dry. But the Hangover Helper pillar is just touching and may continue to fatten into a freestanding climbable WI6+ pillar. Its looks a lot like Pilsner Pillar wild!

Big thanks to everyone who made this such a great ice season for SJMG. Conditions were great most of the year, and I had lots of good memories from days out with all my guests. I'm off to Mexico for a couple weeks to get a little summer blast before I go to Alaska for a couple trips. I'll let everyone know how they go.

Cheers, CC

Canada Wrap Up

Back in Ouray from Canada. Bill and I finished up strong. Great week to end on! For our last three days we climbed the area classics...

Louise Falls 110 m WI5
The Professor Falls 280 m WI4+

Carlsberg Column 140 m WI5

Carlsberg Column Pitch 2

Carlsberg Column Pitch 3

Time to start thinking about Alaska!
Cheers, CC

Oh Canada!

Well, I wrapped up with Paul a week or so ago. We went out with a bang! Paul stepped up and bagged one of the coolest ice routes on the planet, The Sorcerer.

We took it easy on his last day and climbed the classic Guinness Gully. Awesome week, great temps, and good company. I love my job.

Next up were Bobby and Pat from North Carolina. They are Ouray veterans, but this was their first trip to the great white north. We started with the classic Louise Falls, which was a bit burlier than usual and a solid WI5. After a good snowfall, we opted for the Weeping Wall and Icefields tour. Interesting climbing,followed by spectacular scenery.

Weeping Wall

Mt Assiniboine

Mt Andromeda

Mt Athabasca, North Face

Once again we wrapped up the trip with an ascent of the Guinness Gully. Super nice three days.

On Monday I started with the animal himself, Bill K. from San Fransisco. Bill and I have shared some amazing climbs together over the years, but this was his first trip to climb ice in Canada. We started with Guinness Gully, and then made the walk up to the phenomenal Guinness Stout, an extra 80meters of superb WI4+. We went for another mega-classic today and tackled the beautiful Murchison Falls.
Here's Bill coming into the last belay.

It's been fantastic so far. 3 more days to go on this year's Canadian Ice Odyssey. Big Plans!

Cheers, CC

More Canadian Classics!

Thanks for the Ouray update Kevin! Looks good down there!

Paul and I continue to be on a good streak up here in Canada. Friday we climbed the "Showpiece of the Canadian Rockies", Polar Circus. 2100 feet WI5. Temps have been quite nice, and the ice is in good shape.

Here is a look at the final 90m WI5 headwall on Polar Circus.

Yesterday we went into the Ghost and climbed the famous Wicked Wanda. She wasn't quite as wicked as in years past, but still super fun!
Paul and I have a couple days yet to go, and then I'll start with a fresh crew!

Cheers, CC.

Ice conditions in the San Juans

In spite of the warm temps as of late the ice climbing remains superb!!

Dexter: Still super fat but likely to have some surface effect from the warm sunny days.

Skylight area: The usual suspects are all in great shape. I hear talk around town of people climbing Killer Pillar. It looks like this area will be good for quite some time.

Ouray Ice Park: FAT CITY! The park is in great shape. Bryson and his crew did an awesome job building things up during the second half of the season. Barring and big rain storms, we'll be climbing in the park for a while. This really is the best time to visit Ouray, the days are getting longer, the weather is great, and the sun actually peeks into the canyon in spots.

Ribbon & Birdbrain: Have seen a few ascents but conditions have been pretty lean. Keep your eyes open though. Many years these climbs will come in quick during March as a result of melt / freeze cycles.

Horsetail: Still in great shape.

Engineer: Hammered by the warm sunny days.

Silverton: Super fat and seeing some traffic since the Avy hazard has calmed down a bit following the previous storm cycles.

Bridalveil & Ames Ice Hose: Still in great shape. First pitch of the Hose is a little thin, the rock start is always a good option.

Thanks for your interest in ice conditions around Ouray. We look forward to seeing you around town.

Happy Trails,
KAK