tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4482374694394555132024-02-06T20:40:43.437-07:00Ouray Ice ClimbingConditions and Comments for Ice Climbing around Ouray, ColoradoClint Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02805868147831643883noreply@blogger.comBlogger217125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-11162726657612798652012-06-01T10:40:00.004-06:002012-06-01T10:40:57.914-06:00ALASKA SEASON<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I juts came back from a 27 day trip to the Alaska range where I had the opportunity to climb and guide at Denali base camp area. Most of the routes that I did where awesome alpine ice like: Mini moon flower, Bacon and eggs, and the first 13 pitches of the North Buttress of MT Hunter. Also I had the chance to do some alpine rock on the NW ridge of Franciss. I finish my great trip trying a new route on the central face of the of the Mini moon flower. We got pretty good ways up and weather and conditions turns us around. Maybe next year.<br />
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This photo shows the North buttress of MT Hunter with the mini moon flower and beacon and eggs in the back ground. Highly recommend check this place out. <br />
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High on the mini moon flower about pitch 12. Fun alpine ice.<br />
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The crux pitch of the mini just thing and steep great climbing.!!!!!!!!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaAoD8LXsxrO5uFxacR1PeLUxr3xCLPaLfgPmXvr7BaFVn8gaWCfiM5NheUmP76spZeAvntuMoocg6NnHEPclNsrDWres5JWLP_AmVWMmYqlS06t7xnwtrQyHRew3A1ZJSGDLTIa_8dePO/s1600/IMG_1966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>Summit photo with a good friend from slovenia at the summit of the mini.</div>
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Ouray it is a great training ground for this type of adventures. Come this winter and get tune up for 2013 Alaska ice season.<br />
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All best, Andres Marin </div>Andreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18032607621309238319noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-9824720770197811252012-05-18T11:58:00.002-06:002012-05-18T12:12:15.304-06:00Mount Sneffels 14,158'<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mount Sneffels Southeast Face</td></tr>
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As I clicked into my skis at Lavender Col on Mount Sneffels it was hard to believe that days earlier I finished up rock guiding in Las Vegas where the high was forecast to be 99 degrees. though I have spent loads of time staring up at Sneffels throughout various adventures in the San Juans I had never climbed this crown jewel, our local 14er.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">The benefits of an alpine start</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">I bet you can't guess why this peak is named Teakettle</td></tr>
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I managed to drive my small SUV up Camp Bird Road past the ice climbs (now waterfalls), past the Camp Bird and Revenue Mines, past the turn off for the well known Imogene Pass to the trail head for Yankee boy basin. In a few weeks, with a 4x4 vehicle more substantial than my underpowered Korean SUV, motorists will be able to drive a few more miles to the proper trailhead. Either way this made for a pleasant camp as I ate the pizza I bought in town and went to bed early for the next mornings 4am alpine start.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">From the summit!</td></tr>
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After coffee and oatmeal in the darkness of the morning, I shouldered my pack with skis and ski boots and made my way up the trail. Eventually I switched from sneakers to ski boots then skinned and cramponed my way to Lavender Col, up the summit couloir and finally to the summit of mount Sneffels.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Looking south towards the many venues we use for SJMG programs!</td></tr>
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I could see for miles in every direction. I could see south to the Wamanuche where SJMG runs alpine courses, I could the ridgeway resevior. It was an incredible view of the CO landscape!<br />
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<br /></div>Eitan Greenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12262098353712152196noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-55112021378059461512012-04-30T13:08:00.000-06:002012-04-30T13:08:01.203-06:00More Than Ice Climbing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="text-align: center;">While SJMG is known as the local ice experts there comes a time every year when the ice melts and it is time to rock climb. I recently got to spend five days climbing in Red Rock outside Las Vegas with Elena. Together we climbed tons of awesome pitches of Nevada's finest sandstone. </span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguTB-rngoLMugICGWq7X4SLxHBam1kj3QipE050Q_N0tCD1ejSl8RzYNt0YlA8s0SizgulHVIN5BKj0JbtETQGT8Hx4ZHypfZ6XSdAshTUZtWwA9ED5ULd6xMFSMVBdCnuawFsSd68cpvg/s1600/IMG_0123.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguTB-rngoLMugICGWq7X4SLxHBam1kj3QipE050Q_N0tCD1ejSl8RzYNt0YlA8s0SizgulHVIN5BKj0JbtETQGT8Hx4ZHypfZ6XSdAshTUZtWwA9ED5ULd6xMFSMVBdCnuawFsSd68cpvg/s320/IMG_0123.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Elena, originally a guest for ice climbing wanted to hone her rock skills as well. It was really fun getting to cover a lots of terrain and explore a number of Red Rock's canyons before returning to town for dinner. Though we are known for our ice prowess, really at SJMG we are adventure generalists. Do you have an adventure in mind? Let's make it happen!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTQwObngxzWvf1ZgF-3PVn4XIYk0HGyXQJD-ulFxYHnNUNcpKgjVH48z8n84XRXlunfWE-C2oM8b2vPgQVNYqQ4yfnfn3ic4ZKJsT9ioDxvijw9M7C7k8rQqKzHMVLEIARTChcnZQncDOp/s1600/IMG_0126.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTQwObngxzWvf1ZgF-3PVn4XIYk0HGyXQJD-ulFxYHnNUNcpKgjVH48z8n84XRXlunfWE-C2oM8b2vPgQVNYqQ4yfnfn3ic4ZKJsT9ioDxvijw9M7C7k8rQqKzHMVLEIARTChcnZQncDOp/s320/IMG_0126.JPG" width="320" /></a>Eitan Greenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12262098353712152196noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-34027598803223978982012-04-23T11:24:00.001-06:002012-04-23T11:25:02.834-06:00Black Canyon: The Scenic Cruise<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfJmdO1_2_jEKfQp_w70IP047ntWRK8_nDfdV9-8SkfroyyxPFN02FV5nbqAAinVEU-ZW8RewmspupDgKKoa-K15r4c-xpk1_TgHzzouB_gCgAQiKZIz5jL6BKteca3KYNzCQII5UncEzR/s1600/IMG_8834.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfJmdO1_2_jEKfQp_w70IP047ntWRK8_nDfdV9-8SkfroyyxPFN02FV5nbqAAinVEU-ZW8RewmspupDgKKoa-K15r4c-xpk1_TgHzzouB_gCgAQiKZIz5jL6BKteca3KYNzCQII5UncEzR/s320/IMG_8834.JPG" width="240" /></a>Often referred to as the best rock climb in Colorado the Scenic Cruise is stacked with incredible pitches of climbing. It is amazing how many hand cracks are on this 2000' route! Because the route is one of the most famous in the Black Canyon, it receives considerable traffic (which by standards outside the Black is not much) which means the that much of the loose rock has been cleaned off the route.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg75rfUB_Ca2_WFZrGimN3ERAvAb7cCr_530OvB-9rl8foeF-FoM8xZopSx3eHjHv2rk3_vDHmokOPJpQJyA3kwvAw2cn0cLsLpt9ItLiFtZRn_cWOHXfTzESQ5ksAGwNsDC8-UfYy8J7he/s1600/IMG_8869.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg75rfUB_Ca2_WFZrGimN3ERAvAb7cCr_530OvB-9rl8foeF-FoM8xZopSx3eHjHv2rk3_vDHmokOPJpQJyA3kwvAw2cn0cLsLpt9ItLiFtZRn_cWOHXfTzESQ5ksAGwNsDC8-UfYy8J7he/s320/IMG_8869.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEUxNTmbwYLb1HcuMH9PMsS9SkMGESLpNYYLP8x5CAkXEHjqJbidJhUZG_6RaK3hTCNcZnXjzVeauoM13hdjifQnBQplV5Q9IqSaI_wyB11qtWbyHW8Fx1b4OufrpaR1fKkzgMrJmHfDwB/s1600/IMG_8873.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEUxNTmbwYLb1HcuMH9PMsS9SkMGESLpNYYLP8x5CAkXEHjqJbidJhUZG_6RaK3hTCNcZnXjzVeauoM13hdjifQnBQplV5Q9IqSaI_wyB11qtWbyHW8Fx1b4OufrpaR1fKkzgMrJmHfDwB/s320/IMG_8873.JPG" width="240" /></a>Still, with a pumpy 5.10d crux and many in your face pitches of 5.9 and 5.10, the route is an in-your-face undertaking for many climbers. The difficulty of retreating from any of the Scenic Cruise's 13 pitches (or any other route in the Black for that matter) gives the route a seriousness that keeps the crowds away.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEUxNTmbwYLb1HcuMH9PMsS9SkMGESLpNYYLP8x5CAkXEHjqJbidJhUZG_6RaK3hTCNcZnXjzVeauoM13hdjifQnBQplV5Q9IqSaI_wyB11qtWbyHW8Fx1b4OufrpaR1fKkzgMrJmHfDwB/s1600/IMG_8873.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></a><br />
Still open to guided access, The Black Canyon of the Gunnison offers incredible rock climbing adventures beyond the Scenic Cruise for intermediate and advanced climbers. Hiring a guide is a great way to demystify and defang this otherwise serious and sometimes intimidating venue.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfJmdO1_2_jEKfQp_w70IP047ntWRK8_nDfdV9-8SkfroyyxPFN02FV5nbqAAinVEU-ZW8RewmspupDgKKoa-K15r4c-xpk1_TgHzzouB_gCgAQiKZIz5jL6BKteca3KYNzCQII5UncEzR/s1600/IMG_8834.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>Eitan Greenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12262098353712152196noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-10274235807024575442012-04-19T15:34:00.003-06:002012-04-19T15:34:54.022-06:00The Black Canyon of the Gunnison<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyzFGDrOLiu4HPC3ewxLhqV6QXt93bkJiC3XB9X-WM0ikaYD9BY5ihTreiVZeKkfeEcjgtHejIIXREwWwURIcICaNAvTsbnoHgH_8YSa9E1TKnN3AEhKng6rC5whT7h-hyoYLQ3A_ZSjyI/s1600/IMG_7720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyzFGDrOLiu4HPC3ewxLhqV6QXt93bkJiC3XB9X-WM0ikaYD9BY5ihTreiVZeKkfeEcjgtHejIIXREwWwURIcICaNAvTsbnoHgH_8YSa9E1TKnN3AEhKng6rC5whT7h-hyoYLQ3A_ZSjyI/s320/IMG_7720.jpg" width="240" /></a>Only 2 hours from our office in Ouray, CO, The Black Canyon is home to some of the most adventurous, not to mention spectacular, rock climbing in the lower 48. The Black is one of those places that it is easy to fall in love with. The giant canyon drops, in some places up to 2,000 feet, down to the Gunnison River. The canyon is all but invisible until you round a corner to hike down into it and suddenly the spectacular scenery unfolds below you.<br />
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Though guided access was recently threatened in the Black Canyon, thanks to CO legislators, companies with permits like SJMG can guide the incredible multi pitch rock routes in the canyon. With many long 5.8, 5.9, and 5.10 rock climbs the Black Canyon is a great place for intermediate and advanced climbers to experience a wild multi pitch outing. Because it is a canyon, the climbs in the Black top out at or near the campground (and beer cooler) tucked away in the junipers.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPLWylynhtAZjeoXe0q-Km_Nqwl2NrJ2ZOiRXT588lVxI-5tb9xzhAIrbb2IoI49fRw9oSoAw4pLv6HivoWCdwp-XEz_xPq037RjWW-VersAEPCYm_YlDjLyojpteF2hTGVYMo5MzZZqhA/s1600/IMG_7708.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPLWylynhtAZjeoXe0q-Km_Nqwl2NrJ2ZOiRXT588lVxI-5tb9xzhAIrbb2IoI49fRw9oSoAw4pLv6HivoWCdwp-XEz_xPq037RjWW-VersAEPCYm_YlDjLyojpteF2hTGVYMo5MzZZqhA/s320/IMG_7708.jpg" width="240" /></a>Yesterday I climbed a pleasant 5.9 in the canyon named, Casually Off Route. The climb is not very sustained at 5.9, only a couple hard moves, and makes for a great introduction to climbing in this unique and unforgettable venue.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwWC2SNTpKUmcEL5Xg2QRXY9wlebmF1EZ3xugMGD8QqrOBonMRqPGSke7WmlS3oTNtq0vBLtxtuC9hqOkwIqIWGZ4qd1fm65RqV_IBraJyuOsWpWnOS3MHoeBmb6GXtNgRcvih1OBAqvkO/s1600/IMG_7685.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwWC2SNTpKUmcEL5Xg2QRXY9wlebmF1EZ3xugMGD8QqrOBonMRqPGSke7WmlS3oTNtq0vBLtxtuC9hqOkwIqIWGZ4qd1fm65RqV_IBraJyuOsWpWnOS3MHoeBmb6GXtNgRcvih1OBAqvkO/s320/IMG_7685.jpg" width="240" /></a>Eitan Greenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12262098353712152196noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-58482360229695982232012-04-17T08:44:00.001-06:002012-04-17T08:45:29.328-06:00San Juan Mountian Guides is Moving!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3f8Vksai9JN1XT6tPf4HuDPAg1ChoSKuEjBPuueKwglIXfdhrxFEiQIZJk8WrhDunM4PWjPz4V2uBSV2itwlNb7dtxCZZRQasiTtZ3itNxv9pKpfbzazVf7tT30RQDhRqPnYXFP3aNC_D/s1600/IMG_0078.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3f8Vksai9JN1XT6tPf4HuDPAg1ChoSKuEjBPuueKwglIXfdhrxFEiQIZJk8WrhDunM4PWjPz4V2uBSV2itwlNb7dtxCZZRQasiTtZ3itNxv9pKpfbzazVf7tT30RQDhRqPnYXFP3aNC_D/s320/IMG_0078.jpg" width="240" /></a>It has been a busy spring with big changes on the way here at San Juan Mountain Guides. First and foremost we are moving! I spent yesterday helping Nate and Andrew assemble shelves, move gear, and create a vision for our new office.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUDfa7rl8ErfUG3uoLOphqCWjeOaw9Sq7x4_CeccaV263_WCfTzsKB06EP_moWTO8bNQ78QkZMwHVyJYjXJXO95KCedXsD145ISIep4HQOARGrpv1RY5gXmLwmhwkME03ZTdxUY14Of5uo/s1600/IMG_0079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUDfa7rl8ErfUG3uoLOphqCWjeOaw9Sq7x4_CeccaV263_WCfTzsKB06EP_moWTO8bNQ78QkZMwHVyJYjXJXO95KCedXsD145ISIep4HQOARGrpv1RY5gXmLwmhwkME03ZTdxUY14Of5uo/s320/IMG_0079.jpg" width="240" /></a>While I will miss breakfast at Backstreet Bistro, it is exciting to have our own storefront office right on Main Street. it will be a a great head quarters to run our ice climbing programs out of in the winter and our rock climbing, alpine climbing, and back packing in the summer. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRhyphenhyphen1UcjYcTc2VUN9n3dtN8xWf3DO63faiuugNMB_QFec8jWxqmbe0AoXVoz8fxFMEk3ve4yYrtAuqlyWQ_-I-ofguG6zrG170Z8A9vdLnGO1kxNbAPQXg-9FKLjaR-OpbmbERxnda37Oc/s1600/IMG_0080.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRhyphenhyphen1UcjYcTc2VUN9n3dtN8xWf3DO63faiuugNMB_QFec8jWxqmbe0AoXVoz8fxFMEk3ve4yYrtAuqlyWQ_-I-ofguG6zrG170Z8A9vdLnGO1kxNbAPQXg-9FKLjaR-OpbmbERxnda37Oc/s320/IMG_0080.jpg" width="240" /></a>Our new office is in a great part of town. If you need any last minute energy gels or carabiners in the morning, Bill and the gang at Ouray Mountain sports are right across the street. After a long day of climbing right next to the mountain shop is O'Brien's Ouray's very own Irish pub and the place to be for live music on the week ends.</div>
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It is going to be a terrific Summer here in Ouray, and we can't wait to see you you here! <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxfbEAUJJdVmaJy_Rvcc-fFeiRTdhUModYry1Ipi79FwZgcvZQ4y3GrE1-ra0sZsWP-xqpDa3nCS2elbfMbu8TLE6-gg6ZnXuh5eDJ8omaUfm5xHFMsWvdUxfi21dal6_DKdU7Visi5l9L/s1600/IMG_0083.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxfbEAUJJdVmaJy_Rvcc-fFeiRTdhUModYry1Ipi79FwZgcvZQ4y3GrE1-ra0sZsWP-xqpDa3nCS2elbfMbu8TLE6-gg6ZnXuh5eDJ8omaUfm5xHFMsWvdUxfi21dal6_DKdU7Visi5l9L/s320/IMG_0083.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>Eitan Greenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12262098353712152196noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-43962241980139472272012-04-07T11:53:00.002-06:002012-04-07T12:05:56.839-06:00Spring Rock Climbing in Ouray<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpfd7PTYGayACRO9xEXohNTz-ASfe4d3MBcJRddnJSqO5_CbxRQwyhhuXAi_ugM7v4BuOXldB2n4BV9yDoyFGnfkDsAYQBYrKPm7453bDP4dOad3tWnoc4uFlYQqYFWgSzL-oHc1cVaM8/s1600/IMG_0026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpfd7PTYGayACRO9xEXohNTz-ASfe4d3MBcJRddnJSqO5_CbxRQwyhhuXAi_ugM7v4BuOXldB2n4BV9yDoyFGnfkDsAYQBYrKPm7453bDP4dOad3tWnoc4uFlYQqYFWgSzL-oHc1cVaM8/s320/IMG_0026.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCaiY9tQPXA3hZS7lrccpETIUf65rFUINm-QyosFCJAKGzrVOdoIHFOOB2hh3kFdpVkEvqmhQ3OUGxkOetZg6nFCgn1M_3K0nt0Pqw1Da30vZJWpYL4ZRmUOY9Pnv4DT9pW2SkTObxbzo/s1600/IMG_0043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCaiY9tQPXA3hZS7lrccpETIUf65rFUINm-QyosFCJAKGzrVOdoIHFOOB2hh3kFdpVkEvqmhQ3OUGxkOetZg6nFCgn1M_3K0nt0Pqw1Da30vZJWpYL4ZRmUOY9Pnv4DT9pW2SkTObxbzo/s320/IMG_0043.jpg" width="240" /></a>Ouray is, of course, world famous for its ice climbing. When spring time comes and you put the ice tools away you shouldn't stop thinking of Ouray.<br />
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Have you ever sat in the hot springs looking up at the cliffs above? There are hundreds of rock climbs sprinkled throughout Ouray from single pitch sport climbs to long adventurous multi-pitch routes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWPrbPqsTbkshApS-hpCdb7DQBgZXdcpru8IWmjYg-8WNTBYujDm6OeiY_1XgrXCl3JwPOoxYLqNupOvIA31kIUFKacO5WPlfEG4puOWvp5tIsYdQSm4spUvLHI1AW6lTUCcx1pPlyvuY/s1600/IMG_0025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWPrbPqsTbkshApS-hpCdb7DQBgZXdcpru8IWmjYg-8WNTBYujDm6OeiY_1XgrXCl3JwPOoxYLqNupOvIA31kIUFKacO5WPlfEG4puOWvp5tIsYdQSm4spUvLHI1AW6lTUCcx1pPlyvuY/s320/IMG_0025.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXelT3bgx2Bipjn2HPv7MNr5QMpmQvRHd6nzDetu2n2ltcBVZ65tbtfxmKv2ALogIp6kkcSx0Ufk9sGrTvqqop-5QaV_WDW7bx2qZRW6cUe6yWV0ameN22LkheInfeSAqWENurRgiQQWo/s1600/IMG_0040.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></a>Imagine a couple days of rock climbing followed by an alpine ascent into the rugged Sneffels Range or the incredible Grenadiers.<br />
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In the spring, the airport ramps up its flight schedules making logistics of getting here even simpler. At the same time mining roads that wind up into the mountains are cleared. Ouray's already incredible access only gets better! The only question is when do you want to come climb?Eitan Greenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12262098353712152196noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-36267705771442254392012-03-29T10:12:00.002-06:002012-03-29T10:12:58.247-06:00San Juan Spring Skiing<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDk4DXEnyE-f1rdYrMeptoJ6Rilm6yBU9Wiubespgn7_8LeGkQfwFP-hn3WXyPkrSioa6T4TAX93vRlA5hlILuB58wMDbNVLmnlg9YHUQeQilrIepXkc2K0kT0wh7zULnJ6ra06COQ46A/s1600/IMG_0005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDk4DXEnyE-f1rdYrMeptoJ6Rilm6yBU9Wiubespgn7_8LeGkQfwFP-hn3WXyPkrSioa6T4TAX93vRlA5hlILuB58wMDbNVLmnlg9YHUQeQilrIepXkc2K0kT0wh7zULnJ6ra06COQ46A/s320/IMG_0005.JPG" width="320" /></a>Let me share two secrets about the Colorado's San Juans with you. Secret number 1: The ice is great in the late fall. Secret number 2: Spring is the time to ski! The spring melt freeze changes the shapes of the snow crystals. It turns them into rounds that skiers call "corn". This corn makes for creamy, smooth, and fast skiing. The consistency of the snow means that you can ski a bit more aggressively, like you might on a groomed trail, than winter's variable conditions allow.<br />
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Not only do the great conditions make spring skiing a joy, the warm temps make for pleasant, warm, touring. Touring in the sunshine, it is hard to <i>not</i> to go to the summit of the many 12k and 13k peaks in the area. From these summits, skiers can enjoy wide open alpine bowl skiing or skinny couloir skiing, take your pick.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWWLpZ1hJinMKvyM-WEZa6XJZ9REiMlXUMlvsWBkhP2eO8FwvZAe7zyaIDDvQmi1FQLL0bF7Kdss8-VafO6rbbEJ7dWIaQ2WP5FzyMEds1iVCRJrrEWt3Qjk1qV8vy1d-QPtlmVQPaABo/s1600/IMG_0011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWWLpZ1hJinMKvyM-WEZa6XJZ9REiMlXUMlvsWBkhP2eO8FwvZAe7zyaIDDvQmi1FQLL0bF7Kdss8-VafO6rbbEJ7dWIaQ2WP5FzyMEds1iVCRJrrEWt3Qjk1qV8vy1d-QPtlmVQPaABo/s320/IMG_0011.JPG" width="320" /></a>Come check it out!Eitan Greenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12262098353712152196noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-40737438570092570612012-03-14T18:49:00.002-06:002012-03-14T18:49:30.837-06:00Sneffels Range, Reconnoiter<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyK-LhzFt1k1o9-qETeq0zUJsBfdNZYuo7SJ1GXSCW6NEfWZ5nMhJYar3352jSIWU0qUVTiz1jHTGTesHICrjsivXz3W_i-4Ob9LIDENBBxvIwPrUK0yCEmzH2PB-VvsCqBqO8FCCsxRo/s1600/IMG_8748.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyK-LhzFt1k1o9-qETeq0zUJsBfdNZYuo7SJ1GXSCW6NEfWZ5nMhJYar3352jSIWU0qUVTiz1jHTGTesHICrjsivXz3W_i-4Ob9LIDENBBxvIwPrUK0yCEmzH2PB-VvsCqBqO8FCCsxRo/s320/IMG_8748.jpg" width="240" /></a>There is an imposing group of mountains that sit on the horizon as you drive from Ouray through Ridgway to Telluride. This group of mountains are the most rugged peaks in the Rocky Mountain sub range, the San Juans. This is the Sneffles range. Named for Mount Sneffels a 14k peak.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6s7933YOJ9Bp7yMwTHRNZfFxLgWKt7fVpZtfEkllBY1TOZ7-wU7dMpBJYfi2tSJUJB5EvRWkuBROPLXihzcqWZ4Qb7rht6BLydH9bo084RTP3XIr_-8jbfaYhy0nNWtCOgQZjWF_N4-w/s1600/IMG_8717.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6s7933YOJ9Bp7yMwTHRNZfFxLgWKt7fVpZtfEkllBY1TOZ7-wU7dMpBJYfi2tSJUJB5EvRWkuBROPLXihzcqWZ4Qb7rht6BLydH9bo084RTP3XIr_-8jbfaYhy0nNWtCOgQZjWF_N4-w/s320/IMG_8717.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggYG6cxp1UFiBbNOGguGn8XmtE1hKgY4hTlpQZIlhUfFycjU4PRuylkje-NL-GYZ3Lo7Ld7WaFS30-mZGsEieJ6xYzXiYlRT8wFqpWUI_fZsCaE4O1UUweWhl80xes1J0dVIQqmTlqXQg/s1600/IMG_8740.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggYG6cxp1UFiBbNOGguGn8XmtE1hKgY4hTlpQZIlhUfFycjU4PRuylkje-NL-GYZ3Lo7Ld7WaFS30-mZGsEieJ6xYzXiYlRT8wFqpWUI_fZsCaE4O1UUweWhl80xes1J0dVIQqmTlqXQg/s320/IMG_8740.jpg" width="240" /></a>While I have often glimpsed these peaks on my way back form getting groceries in Montrose, I hade never visited them until recently. Phillipe and I decided to ski up into the Sneffles range for a ski mountaineering adventure.<br />
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We skied close to ten miles to right below the summit of Reconnoiter peak. The peak is capped by a 80 foot rock pinnacle. Since we had no rock climbing gear and we had our ski boots on our feet, we could not find a weakness that would lead to the summit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgekMk8U2o1ge6Gr5Nf4MbJSRE35KzgQQL2Dq2mQPuNMkyzHfeV9KKnO0QfDMU-3naanx21haNdj-YAe2XsDWLHRAlvLtVySKts3KcHZ5JtwFZecua_eNQ82aWqs_gZEMErNEAKHF_nizY/s1600/IMG_8744.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgekMk8U2o1ge6Gr5Nf4MbJSRE35KzgQQL2Dq2mQPuNMkyzHfeV9KKnO0QfDMU-3naanx21haNdj-YAe2XsDWLHRAlvLtVySKts3KcHZ5JtwFZecua_eNQ82aWqs_gZEMErNEAKHF_nizY/s320/IMG_8744.jpg" width="240" /></a> <span style="text-align: center;">The prominent couloir to the west (left) of the peak made for an exciting ski descent. Though the upper section was full of breakable wind crust, the bottom was pure San Juan ski bliss. The Sneffels Range is home to some of Colorado's best technical mountaineering. I cannot wait for my next chance to visit this unique range.</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0cdAq8ojbsLJKj3Sbq0o4a2AWLLD93usKCDuBV8h1M5kQ_Lt_THxgNq04aNiFFPn0_9k4-UuZUKaWC6ibeLOQlZIEZaLuYbc-AKnov364d56USeMig8cfjQL_0yu98BBGE4K_09P-gCE/s1600/IMG_8749.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0cdAq8ojbsLJKj3Sbq0o4a2AWLLD93usKCDuBV8h1M5kQ_Lt_THxgNq04aNiFFPn0_9k4-UuZUKaWC6ibeLOQlZIEZaLuYbc-AKnov364d56USeMig8cfjQL_0yu98BBGE4K_09P-gCE/s320/IMG_8749.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />Eitan Greenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12262098353712152196noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-19519778264276517552012-02-23T08:13:00.001-07:002012-02-23T08:13:38.355-07:00Still Kickin' (and Swingin')<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_88ZpcgLlCDt8_WVQLKIV0n2Uy8MSi3hswy4_ifIgk2sGOhIbOXgwFYf72Dlhgqa1SEflvrpBzBlhfdhXjvo7WLZMLxTf-shN7DqZJLVsqBY2LMQlWIM9PWnLvCuwzcI1YMoBW_QZeXVx/s1600/P1070080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_88ZpcgLlCDt8_WVQLKIV0n2Uy8MSi3hswy4_ifIgk2sGOhIbOXgwFYf72Dlhgqa1SEflvrpBzBlhfdhXjvo7WLZMLxTf-shN7DqZJLVsqBY2LMQlWIM9PWnLvCuwzcI1YMoBW_QZeXVx/s320/P1070080.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">So it has been a while since we were last able to post simply because we have been so busy taking people from all over the country ice climbing all over the San Juans. From the Ice Park, to Camp Bird Road, to Telluride, to Silverton. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJp6lHwbY0EP4TguRnp2pwoOrEJyjN5sdaQ-4NJDyvR5t-jL8N5EgLfrPbSLGcrCUh3DFPKpeOOwpCQoXx6NCjgLSBBgYHf4YnoW4uwKzx5l2KPfEzYylItm_cIlZ9DXzx1ZnEBmlGFZls/s1600/IMG_8399.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJp6lHwbY0EP4TguRnp2pwoOrEJyjN5sdaQ-4NJDyvR5t-jL8N5EgLfrPbSLGcrCUh3DFPKpeOOwpCQoXx6NCjgLSBBgYHf4YnoW4uwKzx5l2KPfEzYylItm_cIlZ9DXzx1ZnEBmlGFZls/s320/IMG_8399.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnIQbNf4pmrg4RZQ-L_k5YP0d8sv9qXCsCTu3GcYyVmVSuucEUfhfSDP7R73Ex9hVTLWHs6M6svV6W3sd7u9Fl-sTSxzuAe3hC4JYAOn6_tlWx2CxVoSyXaIArBfg3EcNLQgIgOJQ-yJbY/s1600/IMG_8403.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnIQbNf4pmrg4RZQ-L_k5YP0d8sv9qXCsCTu3GcYyVmVSuucEUfhfSDP7R73Ex9hVTLWHs6M6svV6W3sd7u9Fl-sTSxzuAe3hC4JYAOn6_tlWx2CxVoSyXaIArBfg3EcNLQgIgOJQ-yJbY/s320/IMG_8403.jpg" width="240" /></a>It is such a joy sharing ice climbing with climbers of all levels. Whether it is teaching people to plant their front points solidly into the ice for the first time, or taking them up one of the areas famous hard-man (or woman) climbs, we love getting people out on the ice.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR4ydTFY5zZhBNxlu2LW98JgrcUyAYGNwborYG7vnG9PA9RJWP4vmZ1gp1gQeThkdsJJ2qQe3ExMhKJlW4xTftlW1LosB9gsPg0l_rh3REnwms_RhuCw5kdNPc2O5dtwWzxdf0Unn5M92s/s1600/P1070143.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR4ydTFY5zZhBNxlu2LW98JgrcUyAYGNwborYG7vnG9PA9RJWP4vmZ1gp1gQeThkdsJJ2qQe3ExMhKJlW4xTftlW1LosB9gsPg0l_rh3REnwms_RhuCw5kdNPc2O5dtwWzxdf0Unn5M92s/s320/P1070143.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
Even though some people are thinking spring, as I look out my window at the latest snow storm I know that the ice climbing and backcountry skiing will stay good for a while to come. If you haven't had the chance to come climb or ski with us yet this year, give us a call, we would love to take you out!<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaAdbi3r5ANnny1e2zVaQ3rezwl6zdmu8KUQUU7xuAcUuWMg7Uo6TBopzA46CIgHjznEM-B-cw6CDHXAK78poAVYSxKu_1RA829kqa2OBp7e4v2JpKGHRetFarn-NyMF7OjHStSBx3Eoo2/s1600/P1070325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaAdbi3r5ANnny1e2zVaQ3rezwl6zdmu8KUQUU7xuAcUuWMg7Uo6TBopzA46CIgHjznEM-B-cw6CDHXAK78poAVYSxKu_1RA829kqa2OBp7e4v2JpKGHRetFarn-NyMF7OjHStSBx3Eoo2/s320/P1070325.JPG" width="240" /></a>Eitan Greenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12262098353712152196noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-27939360020644594622012-01-09T18:21:00.000-07:002012-01-09T18:23:54.852-07:00Toledo, OH to Ouray, CO<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDidqPFAmZQRyUAWZw8ILpTXp19Thf5Qyn0LCnzX2PBH32cJ0mpmoWvEoltE02redYPBlQv43XFTY8t2zBMI8Jy4eHUgOLaAaIcmEROatVPHEM-8mv7_u_314BtghN5DRpjE19x_NWO-w/s1600/IMG_8185.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br class="Apple-interchange-newline" /><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDidqPFAmZQRyUAWZw8ILpTXp19Thf5Qyn0LCnzX2PBH32cJ0mpmoWvEoltE02redYPBlQv43XFTY8t2zBMI8Jy4eHUgOLaAaIcmEROatVPHEM-8mv7_u_314BtghN5DRpjE19x_NWO-w/s320/IMG_8185.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho4ErZ1z6w8vCdA7bZhYiJ9RSpgKlrG_OB4GTngs9Sezs31-XEpZ-u61dBq2J6L72mA6Pz93CHYyykApA_huUWLD1rkWKhpofPXZXvHI71HtdrChcmCl1I90Y0jDOmykAVPVB8_EPTcmE/s1600/IMG_8177.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho4ErZ1z6w8vCdA7bZhYiJ9RSpgKlrG_OB4GTngs9Sezs31-XEpZ-u61dBq2J6L72mA6Pz93CHYyykApA_huUWLD1rkWKhpofPXZXvHI71HtdrChcmCl1I90Y0jDOmykAVPVB8_EPTcmE/s1600/IMG_8177.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a>It seems like a long way to go to climb frozen waterfalls, but judging by the grins on these guys faces, it was well worth it. I got to spend 2 days climbing with Brian and Walt from Toledo. Both of them had done some ice climbing before and Brian recently climbed Everest and completed his seventh summit. Both wanted to improve their climbing skills and came to Ouray to do it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho4ErZ1z6w8vCdA7bZhYiJ9RSpgKlrG_OB4GTngs9Sezs31-XEpZ-u61dBq2J6L72mA6Pz93CHYyykApA_huUWLD1rkWKhpofPXZXvHI71HtdrChcmCl1I90Y0jDOmykAVPVB8_EPTcmE/s1600/IMG_8177.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho4ErZ1z6w8vCdA7bZhYiJ9RSpgKlrG_OB4GTngs9Sezs31-XEpZ-u61dBq2J6L72mA6Pz93CHYyykApA_huUWLD1rkWKhpofPXZXvHI71HtdrChcmCl1I90Y0jDOmykAVPVB8_EPTcmE/s320/IMG_8177.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
We spent the first day in the Ice Park working on their technique in the Scottish Gullies and South Park and the School Room. Both improved their foot work enormously and climbed some steep lines! The second day we enjoyed the backcountry gem Dexter Creek Slabs. At the base we sampled the delicious smoked cheddar cheese and sausage that Walt shared with the team.<br />
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Thanks for a great day gentlemen! I hope to see you back for other classic like Whorehouse Hoses, Stairway, or 2nd Gulley.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1fNSoW1ylE8P6owGFwpUEoz78qtgIg5r4LP05p37E8pc8YaNJiQ_v678utv1HZI8nW9VupFeBJLtqhfC30Q5p2JAhLFXyB1O1rQoTor8XqdbssM2MVFkESKOLMxRLjGZec9uEX8jFytg/s1600/IMG_8192.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1fNSoW1ylE8P6owGFwpUEoz78qtgIg5r4LP05p37E8pc8YaNJiQ_v678utv1HZI8nW9VupFeBJLtqhfC30Q5p2JAhLFXyB1O1rQoTor8XqdbssM2MVFkESKOLMxRLjGZec9uEX8jFytg/s320/IMG_8192.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Eitan Greenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12262098353712152196noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-69542367264459751602012-01-05T09:57:00.001-07:002012-01-05T09:58:41.470-07:00Making Ice Climbing Safer<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGM4em4-g9XIpJZ0pNotKfRmOGRYWKgv0hNlaBqS6SiVm4b8nuXQbOzypyr4_f5DRmfmp2ZJEfzAlxZncaCz9PmnImcUdI26RbHCKzopKcJkSAyhgx9SDnL2PplU2XacHn_uKCae9cjSqR/s1600/IMG_2445.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGM4em4-g9XIpJZ0pNotKfRmOGRYWKgv0hNlaBqS6SiVm4b8nuXQbOzypyr4_f5DRmfmp2ZJEfzAlxZncaCz9PmnImcUdI26RbHCKzopKcJkSAyhgx9SDnL2PplU2XacHn_uKCae9cjSqR/s320/IMG_2445.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
Here at San Juan Mountain Guides we are all about ice climbing in the winter. However, part of what makes us different is our emphasis on education. I like to take part of my days out with folks to explain how the safety systems we use in ice climbing work. For those interested, we talk about placing your own protection, building anchors and leading ice climbs.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKhkhDcjMXTgMcJguijojzhN425IRBj4q7nhAWwWy0A2vee5Q7WkApRBnrN3qC59qn5b_fy9rsl7jxO-WsssUse2rjl_H5K5eq5OJiZwNsVc3pKGcKuksvH26nxIg59pljCm2wqYoBmYCl/s1600/IMG_5373.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKhkhDcjMXTgMcJguijojzhN425IRBj4q7nhAWwWy0A2vee5Q7WkApRBnrN3qC59qn5b_fy9rsl7jxO-WsssUse2rjl_H5K5eq5OJiZwNsVc3pKGcKuksvH26nxIg59pljCm2wqYoBmYCl/s320/IMG_5373.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The internet puts a great deal of information about ice climbing at our finger tips, if you know where to look. Understanding the forces involved and the dynamics of the medium and equipment helps me climb safer. Together with a day or two of instruction this collection of links and articles will surely help you climb safer, enjoy!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIRa0LUX1PqFM5rihoG0jDADOJZPXciRGgRCwN68dtJ4ZFqRNeGZZxuv8zdhbx19PhI8OOsq2BKPZEQd0mobmseLMR8YR65D3BUQ7whgyCca0Cig5OzmqkEEfHcrlZGMNbHp3-n_bOgGsA/s1600/IMG_1863.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIRa0LUX1PqFM5rihoG0jDADOJZPXciRGgRCwN68dtJ4ZFqRNeGZZxuv8zdhbx19PhI8OOsq2BKPZEQd0mobmseLMR8YR65D3BUQ7whgyCca0Cig5OzmqkEEfHcrlZGMNbHp3-n_bOgGsA/s320/IMG_1863.JPG" width="320" /></a><span id="internal-source-marker_0.1372209102846682"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span style="font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb-video/video/bd-sales-rep-roger-strong-on-how-to-properly-place-an-ice-screw/">Placing Ice Screws</a></span><br /><span style="color: #000099;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span><a href="http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=1863958284744514965">Petzl Ice Anchors Testing</a><br /><span style="font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span><br /><span style="font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="http://hmga.gr/storehouse/word-acrobat/Ice%20Climbing%20Anchor%20Strength%20-%20MRA%202009%20-%20Marc%20Beverly.pdf">Anchor testing article </a></span><br /><span style="color: #000099;"><span style="font-size: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2011/03/ice-climbing-is-not-rock-climbing.html">Fall on Ice with Will Gadd’s analysis</a></span><br /><span style="color: #000099;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span><a href="http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/qclab/qc-lab-to-screamer-or-not-to-screamer">Screamers or not?</a> </span></span></div>Eitan Greenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12262098353712152196noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-88403307137185070282011-12-30T14:22:00.003-07:002011-12-30T14:22:28.661-07:00Dispatches from the Ouray Ice Park<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBfgK9AsHi17Z0n4A63nI8V5gXJ-9EVXMEPB_rEnGREeAQ60JEmIqMXDjUNyFriekqgfJWL8Iw2CWxhGy1baDDFpLcDC7wUNCN2T2Nhqg792y2vZPYGp58Xpna6-KoiPn9PT345qlNQjM/s1600/IMG_8147.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBfgK9AsHi17Z0n4A63nI8V5gXJ-9EVXMEPB_rEnGREeAQ60JEmIqMXDjUNyFriekqgfJWL8Iw2CWxhGy1baDDFpLcDC7wUNCN2T2Nhqg792y2vZPYGp58Xpna6-KoiPn9PT345qlNQjM/s320/IMG_8147.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Swingin'!</td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: center;">The warm weather has made for "hero" ice conditions in the ice park. The softened, but not overly melting ice makes of endless one-swing-stick-bliss! If you were ever thinking of getting on a particularly hard ice climbing now is the time while the ice is as user friendly as ever.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoCGJkR8KFxMosBTKwrKH6E-atvz6pYcMBA-F0dMJ883E69VMuR2OVKMW8U-Vn3BW9691dqynV3mJLf1vixIz1N-J9Nbb5Td_6-iTh2QL5ui7pkeaEJciz-EYKQlP4mbLr5m4KgaRjzCw/s1600/IMG_8153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoCGJkR8KFxMosBTKwrKH6E-atvz6pYcMBA-F0dMJ883E69VMuR2OVKMW8U-Vn3BW9691dqynV3mJLf1vixIz1N-J9Nbb5Td_6-iTh2QL5ui7pkeaEJciz-EYKQlP4mbLr5m4KgaRjzCw/s320/IMG_8153.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Kickin'!</td></tr>
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I have had the pleasure of exploring ice technique with a number of wonderful folks from all over the country over the last few days. We have hung out in the Scottish Gullies, The School Room, and South Park going through the San Juan Mountain Guides' Ice Curriculum.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg-eznxbGSrM_T_9b5YkvENnXo2RGUvgsUF942k3sIhqfmsDGXwGO13JX9Z_LO-cIOWxh-lKN7jTtYLy3awFiPZAbs6JI9awKGsA1I8NtTX2xDqSdGiHVlr6uolu2i2GFg6lkQbRqlW6c/s1600/IMG_8115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg-eznxbGSrM_T_9b5YkvENnXo2RGUvgsUF942k3sIhqfmsDGXwGO13JX9Z_LO-cIOWxh-lKN7jTtYLy3awFiPZAbs6JI9awKGsA1I8NtTX2xDqSdGiHVlr6uolu2i2GFg6lkQbRqlW6c/s320/IMG_8115.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Relaxin'!</td></tr>
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We start with no tools on low angle ice to learn to trust the crampons and to develop solid foot work and stability. Next we incorporate one tool. Here we learn to swing and where the tool goes relative to the rest of our body position. Last, we put all the pieces together with both tools and swing and kick our way with perfect form up the ice until our forearms turn to jelly!<br />Eitan Greenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12262098353712152196noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-63096863653517830742011-12-27T15:03:00.002-07:002011-12-27T15:14:04.355-07:00Kids Ice Climbing College<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV2yfrES7cnp-PC3dC4k5xY1l2qBtRLrnL1FN8tWnljb-QDidhJ_ngY_g0AWB3fQ2FGC4iC5kwtJG5VS1E7V2isOaMfOWNDqjxoQFtDvfiPoDH2kDrLFs22TSS4DOSMMZSe9mjwtThafo/s1600/IMG_8121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV2yfrES7cnp-PC3dC4k5xY1l2qBtRLrnL1FN8tWnljb-QDidhJ_ngY_g0AWB3fQ2FGC4iC5kwtJG5VS1E7V2isOaMfOWNDqjxoQFtDvfiPoDH2kDrLFs22TSS4DOSMMZSe9mjwtThafo/s320/IMG_8121.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Future San Juan Mountain Guide?</td></tr>
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Every year at San Juan Mountain Guides we run a number of free kids climbing clinics at the Ice Park. It is pretty remarkable to be able to offer young kids the chance to try out a sport once reserved only for adults. We are the only people in the world I know of who have a fleet of specially modified ice tools for kids to try ice climbing.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9wK0Om9XAnzRuKVTG8xnpiOvSsDXhp9NJn28w9n5DvfHL8ixA5TlR3IOHcDIOWfi0SPMa8FkvMbqn_YedZaQXo1Gv9TortsP9pn-9xZXxL_09VAEv3y3UqfoSlMzJNjvvrNgwWtsd5Ag/s1600/IMG_8137.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9wK0Om9XAnzRuKVTG8xnpiOvSsDXhp9NJn28w9n5DvfHL8ixA5TlR3IOHcDIOWfi0SPMa8FkvMbqn_YedZaQXo1Gv9TortsP9pn-9xZXxL_09VAEv3y3UqfoSlMzJNjvvrNgwWtsd5Ag/s320/IMG_8137.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Guides helping future ice masters get roped up and ready to go!</td></tr>
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The guides of SJMG, people with experience climbing ice all over the country and the world, coach kids up the ice, teaching them to balance on their crampons while they swing into the ice. It is fun watching kids problem solve their way to the tops of the climbs and gratifying to see their smiles when they notice the view from the top.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg86HvmbqLDpSg9iCsrIiyjWi7-9m1cpp0jJcb1WUXf1qzpfn9BMbZM_iET2qw2FubvlqpKD5xb57uiGv_b7_-sSqA_WOSnIaZ4fp00l1NlSfWTyngZlRtEBqu15fWQGNjd085N8it7Pk4/s1600/IMG_8126.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg86HvmbqLDpSg9iCsrIiyjWi7-9m1cpp0jJcb1WUXf1qzpfn9BMbZM_iET2qw2FubvlqpKD5xb57uiGv_b7_-sSqA_WOSnIaZ4fp00l1NlSfWTyngZlRtEBqu15fWQGNjd085N8it7Pk4/s320/IMG_8126.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">World famous mountaineers to be take their first steps.</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS5Y7jDcW5rB3bX6ebSh6Ge3VZKVklhhi9IxgPr83SvPgxAkTag2j7wqOB-67O8OQLy9i9dqM8DVm6l7lQGpKp4TYVeYxj8qu-9UI9bFRcLwWmfrBMPLs-pa-c_2kCdeKSJYS1yYYRuwE/s1600/IMG_8124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS5Y7jDcW5rB3bX6ebSh6Ge3VZKVklhhi9IxgPr83SvPgxAkTag2j7wqOB-67O8OQLy9i9dqM8DVm6l7lQGpKp4TYVeYxj8qu-9UI9bFRcLwWmfrBMPLs-pa-c_2kCdeKSJYS1yYYRuwE/s320/IMG_8124.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Swingin' and kickin' to the top!</td></tr>
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These future ice masters rocked the ice park yesterday. Kids clinics are for kids 8-17 and are totally free. All of the clinics are at the upper bridge at the Ouray Ice Park. Here are the 2012 dates:</div>
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Sat, Jan 7, 10a-3p</div>
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Sun, Jan 8, 10a-2p</div>
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Sun, Feb12, 12p-4p</div>
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Click <a href="http://www.ourayclimbing.com/pages/show/KIDS%20Ice">here</a> for details. See you there!</div>
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<br /></div>Eitan Greenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12262098353712152196noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-6530926670394542492011-12-22T10:07:00.002-07:002011-12-22T10:14:09.847-07:00Stairway to Heaven<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuF9yu49aDY-3lxjwF9jL7S1Xfa4UFebT0XXwZvO1CUUdWE0HB_LwNwN9_W6bHQGFQ3zmrbcp91_5YyGOiOYReCzQp6NrGp_LHyFfa25Yjs7sLWWPFZ8zUCqjyVTnPQk0ERYFTrxgd7CM/s1600/DSC03705.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuF9yu49aDY-3lxjwF9jL7S1Xfa4UFebT0XXwZvO1CUUdWE0HB_LwNwN9_W6bHQGFQ3zmrbcp91_5YyGOiOYReCzQp6NrGp_LHyFfa25Yjs7sLWWPFZ8zUCqjyVTnPQk0ERYFTrxgd7CM/s320/DSC03705.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5689002006755418834" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDlJTj6fM3FPXsk194hxdK745xZ_o7Qb7cSRbveOzd20rUotFd8vYgR_UUX-7CTcWvQ9X4mkDbycGTml-IEyLafvOR354jqBcIWPqmOgK9fZC4jVgbCeC4v7Dx3usTpHtAypPg88706Po/s1600/DSC03707.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDlJTj6fM3FPXsk194hxdK745xZ_o7Qb7cSRbveOzd20rUotFd8vYgR_UUX-7CTcWvQ9X4mkDbycGTml-IEyLafvOR354jqBcIWPqmOgK9fZC4jVgbCeC4v7Dx3usTpHtAypPg88706Po/s320/DSC03707.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5689002000164012354" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpDFxiX4Hdv89fUmUt-z-x04jgpGDwZfcA4oYajPy6iW-z8J-JdzkRpWGmSNnIba1Zomhr0kCGyVPoVv3koXUFAeePzc32EhNBRNb_OM0txx5-523kzxk5o5kWz1fRD0tiDl3T9JNtWYA/s1600/DSC03743.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpDFxiX4Hdv89fUmUt-z-x04jgpGDwZfcA4oYajPy6iW-z8J-JdzkRpWGmSNnIba1Zomhr0kCGyVPoVv3koXUFAeePzc32EhNBRNb_OM0txx5-523kzxk5o5kWz1fRD0tiDl3T9JNtWYA/s320/DSC03743.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5689002010915899826" border="0" /></a><br />I had a wonderful day out in Eureka yesterday with Liba. It was our second day out in the backcountry working on leading skills. Liba did a GREAT job leading the second pitch and then taking us to the top. Stairway is in pretty good shape and the approach about as easy as it gets - although it started snowing as we left. Thanks for a fantastic day Liba.Danikahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11349100014314101928noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-58201716134550790822011-12-20T17:03:00.002-07:002011-12-20T17:03:42.656-07:00Ouray Ice Park Time!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyZvSceE-Y2ABCsuXr_ad638v8DZOj-R8Ikp14UyxPawAXmqoLxegKWgnoY9ztWp0QY2O_Qmokcabt-32SkkatJ809ZmoNWGMBM9XUTZxvk8Qz1JlaPXafY_AolRxzq44qm_A2yPqRBNY/s1600/IMG_8110.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyZvSceE-Y2ABCsuXr_ad638v8DZOj-R8Ikp14UyxPawAXmqoLxegKWgnoY9ztWp0QY2O_Qmokcabt-32SkkatJ809ZmoNWGMBM9XUTZxvk8Qz1JlaPXafY_AolRxzq44qm_A2yPqRBNY/s320/IMG_8110.JPG" width="240" /></a>We all eagerly awaited like children in front of the case at the local chocolate shop <a href="http://mouseschocolates.com/">Mouse's Chocolates</a> as we watched the ice park grow faster and faster as the weather got cold. Our anticipation built with the ice in the park until finally... it opened.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV0aJVqt5gZ60JwseTOjZLyFBaCZWfO7zSXAK5FdTyHJS_pisW_y08RVv-gYPPv966Yjc-mRZeLRXB26Kq9jxIoGZfHhsvv0EOrMSD_SJcd0P91-gZrabQ8Z-Ai_esax4n31qLuCX5EyU/s1600/IMG_8087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV0aJVqt5gZ60JwseTOjZLyFBaCZWfO7zSXAK5FdTyHJS_pisW_y08RVv-gYPPv966Yjc-mRZeLRXB26Kq9jxIoGZfHhsvv0EOrMSD_SJcd0P91-gZrabQ8Z-Ai_esax4n31qLuCX5EyU/s320/IMG_8087.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0k8TVl_ds8hqfQCw40EQtSAul_w3QAOw_axSWMVDmv0p8wnTlGiGmdJ7YQOBxMGRg-XXgmV8gFXH6qPYGpe6fU1EfeVtFRcDDuAZpMuXOJgiu6bK2j_TQWxuK0nFeVg_xMMU3SaFnx7A/s1600/IMG_8091.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0k8TVl_ds8hqfQCw40EQtSAul_w3QAOw_axSWMVDmv0p8wnTlGiGmdJ7YQOBxMGRg-XXgmV8gFXH6qPYGpe6fU1EfeVtFRcDDuAZpMuXOJgiu6bK2j_TQWxuK0nFeVg_xMMU3SaFnx7A/s320/IMG_8091.JPG" width="240" /></a>I spent two days climbing in the <a href="http://www.ourayicepark.com/">Ouray Ice Park</a> with Russell form CO. He had never tried ice climbing before but wanted to expand his outdoor recreation repertoire. During our time together we built Russell's foundation on low angle ice. He quickly grasped the technique and moved on to steeper climbing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV0aJVqt5gZ60JwseTOjZLyFBaCZWfO7zSXAK5FdTyHJS_pisW_y08RVv-gYPPv966Yjc-mRZeLRXB26Kq9jxIoGZfHhsvv0EOrMSD_SJcd0P91-gZrabQ8Z-Ai_esax4n31qLuCX5EyU/s1600/IMG_8087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0k8TVl_ds8hqfQCw40EQtSAul_w3QAOw_axSWMVDmv0p8wnTlGiGmdJ7YQOBxMGRg-XXgmV8gFXH6qPYGpe6fU1EfeVtFRcDDuAZpMuXOJgiu6bK2j_TQWxuK0nFeVg_xMMU3SaFnx7A/s1600/IMG_8091.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></a>It was really fun getting to hang in the ice park with Russell and revisit some of my favorite climbs in the park. It was a treat to get to work on the finer points of kicking and swinging and balancing our way up any one of over 200 freshly frozen ice climbs . Thanks for a great day Russell.<br />Eitan Greenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12262098353712152196noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-23523253722535826562011-12-13T09:24:00.002-07:002011-12-13T09:24:16.223-07:00Ouray Ice: Dexter Slabs<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dexter Slabs, 4 pitches</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnWAwGeNr769AYNhz-ag0SdD2ri2XiKP8IFY9Z5ituH2qEaVk3hMUr7xXXHvn01vVk2Gxc56CwCFWrrxVKagedC3zMYUztwVMDGsNWakAaNV3Go1ou5J70hKeUTbNpQ0KGuPaYd9q7OS8p/s1600/IMG_8059.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnWAwGeNr769AYNhz-ag0SdD2ri2XiKP8IFY9Z5ituH2qEaVk3hMUr7xXXHvn01vVk2Gxc56CwCFWrrxVKagedC3zMYUztwVMDGsNWakAaNV3Go1ou5J70hKeUTbNpQ0KGuPaYd9q7OS8p/s320/IMG_8059.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mt. Ridgway</td></tr>
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While Ouray is known for the Ouray Ice Park set to open next weekend, there is also a great deal of backcountry ice climbs that make for nice beginner and intermediate excursions outside the park. I climbed one of these, Dexter Slabs, with my roommates yesterday. It was Whitney's first multi-pitch ice climb and she did great! This climb is a great first tall climb with straightforward climbing, steep sections, rappelling off v-threads, and of course, great views. All in all it is certainly a full value outing and I can't wait to show more folks this great climb.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Good times high above the Uncompahgre River Valley</td></tr>
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For people thinking about a trip to the San Juans who really want to check out the ice I often recommend a 2-4 day itinerary. Day 1 in the park learning the basics, day 2 on a beginner multi pitch climb like Dexter Slabs. Usually we take days 3 and 4 to get on some bigger, harder climbs or for a day of skiing! We look forward to seeing you soon.<br />
<br />Eitan Greenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12262098353712152196noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-27122430047401769562011-12-12T11:19:00.002-07:002011-12-12T11:36:25.762-07:00BIRD BRAIN BOULEVARDI had a great day climbing Bird Brain.<div>I had the opportunity to climb it with my girl friend Annie it was her first time climbing the route and she had a blast!!!!!! </div><div>The route it is in great condition. It is more ice on the lower than the upper part of the route, making some upper pitches little more interesting that other years.</div><div>It has been a big time clean up on the route in terms of old <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">manky</span> pins and old anchors, so plan on bringing little more gear for anchors. </div><div>Ha!!! the pillar on the second pitch it is pretty awesome. PLEASE be <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">gentle</span> with it !!!!</div><div>Hands down it is my favorite route in the San Juan's.</div><div><br /></div><div>In the next couple of days I will be heading to the Talisman. I have been looking at it for the past couple of weeks and I think it is looking like potentially could go. Little on the LUNATIC side of climbing but it will go. Let you guys know how it is hopefully soon.</div><div><br /></div><div>Other than that this season is awesome so far so come and climb and keep it SAFE !!!!</div><div><br /></div><div>Best Regards </div><div>Andres </div><div> </div>Andreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18032607621309238319noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-5260849781960414582011-12-08T17:33:00.001-07:002011-12-08T17:50:37.715-07:00Ouray Ice: The Ribbon<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeUKLEZ2hCLlW5ztoJL8vV8ax-q9G3wMeQ2qJao2dLgL3QZtFOIyW5Gsk-azNEX0pDpm7191tNJb-OZbTi2Qm52goHXUFTQWzMeIPpjG2fJBFLBrDlgku2AxhQbTVLoxrfQ5EKs3Or1_Eu/s1600/IMG_3988.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeUKLEZ2hCLlW5ztoJL8vV8ax-q9G3wMeQ2qJao2dLgL3QZtFOIyW5Gsk-azNEX0pDpm7191tNJb-OZbTi2Qm52goHXUFTQWzMeIPpjG2fJBFLBrDlgku2AxhQbTVLoxrfQ5EKs3Or1_Eu/s320/IMG_3988.jpg" width="240" /></a>Matt and I were back at it today checking out the Ouray ice conditions and they are great. For one, with the cold temps the ice park looks bigger every day and should be open before you know it. The whole Skylight area is very much in right now. The new snow and the warm days have been refreshing the climbs that were getting a bit hacked out. It should look like new up there in time for the weekend.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2pn7vztvmFmMzKFpBUyO_lsn5QEebh91XIpy5xG53GcUps30iU3BRzaeUx2Ow4HAdcxU3hUCzCkI_6h-A_TOE5MqJqdxj9ua-CMMNB3RHRKyYp9O-gAPEz8yYv5tmUfDm4kWQYSVi-_6_/s1600/IMG_3979.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2pn7vztvmFmMzKFpBUyO_lsn5QEebh91XIpy5xG53GcUps30iU3BRzaeUx2Ow4HAdcxU3hUCzCkI_6h-A_TOE5MqJqdxj9ua-CMMNB3RHRKyYp9O-gAPEz8yYv5tmUfDm4kWQYSVi-_6_/s320/IMG_3979.JPG" width="240" /></a>Today however, Matt and I got on The Ribbon. This is the striking line you can see from the Camp Bird parking area. The first pitch was a bit spicy. While the tool sticks were good, the protection was a bit tricky due to the aerated and thin ice with no real pro in the easier climbing low down. The second and Third pitches are in great shape however and are totally worth the run out on the first one.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm1TyQVBJJ6wm8wNrRvoKDWM8wPr1b490PKH0QzYYbM7dL-dD_dHj8LG7YLWBsN6zy8MPqe_noez9EYZ9oioY9VnU1u311g7FXXbfyNUlSAlWC50uXt5On2xNtfcaWZ5QGAzUr3Kh6of6b/s1600/IMG_3980.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm1TyQVBJJ6wm8wNrRvoKDWM8wPr1b490PKH0QzYYbM7dL-dD_dHj8LG7YLWBsN6zy8MPqe_noez9EYZ9oioY9VnU1u311g7FXXbfyNUlSAlWC50uXt5On2xNtfcaWZ5QGAzUr3Kh6of6b/s320/IMG_3980.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK-LiMstHa3CHJMNh1CuPWsO45kPhAgECX4gHKv6i01Ymralkmc2hp-T2m9qYJxaVfoYo7npjtXsNa3wvuyoFWvKt333YqZ3pJ9M2GA2ogWH8F4aydt4mhy4KuDoNemdgWwyN95v4qlGn_/s1600/IMG_8021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK-LiMstHa3CHJMNh1CuPWsO45kPhAgECX4gHKv6i01Ymralkmc2hp-T2m9qYJxaVfoYo7npjtXsNa3wvuyoFWvKt333YqZ3pJ9M2GA2ogWH8F4aydt4mhy4KuDoNemdgWwyN95v4qlGn_/s320/IMG_8021.jpg" width="240" /></a>Many people seem to miss the bolted anchors on this route. There is one at the top of the snow ramp that is sometimes a first pitch on the right. The pitch 1 anchors are just past the steep part on the left. The anchors at the top of pitch 2 are on the right twenty or so feet below the second steep part. The final pitch ends at some bolts on the right you should not have to use the manky pin anchor above the good bolt one. Rap the route with 2 60m raps and grab a beer and burger!Eitan Greenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12262098353712152196noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-49645808494260565942011-12-06T16:33:00.001-07:002011-12-06T16:41:35.567-07:00Ouray Backcountry Ice<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm9eDKQfhmz7t_HHgzg_XNnyDk0PHmDJi9qBV3cxf1iYehRuqUojxdDv9O7VxVkr9ODp7O1nDEEgqWEwLmhjBp9IzcEQasvCNbsxUTzvP2et8tccWwob-I3zwc8zvF5IodrD8ulK5P3Ftg/s1600/IMG_7990.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm9eDKQfhmz7t_HHgzg_XNnyDk0PHmDJi9qBV3cxf1iYehRuqUojxdDv9O7VxVkr9ODp7O1nDEEgqWEwLmhjBp9IzcEQasvCNbsxUTzvP2et8tccWwob-I3zwc8zvF5IodrD8ulK5P3Ftg/s320/IMG_7990.jpg" width="240" /></a>Visiting guide Matt H. and I climbed Horsetail Falls today. The creek crossing was a bit tricky. But with the recent cold temps there was ample ice to get across. With so little snow it got a bit scrappy getting up the cleft that leads to the climb. The climb itself is in good shape, though it is still early season ice. Which is to say, there is plenty of ice to climb but it has lots of cauliflower and candles still.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL4NFrvbVUzCYhXXv6wFq8odlAKALC4L-fwMzrtVH_Gnawtu8pkm5oPfjYykmue4sVSdbKGdgkvECQMk2SaiesaW_d8k5ZTDlJiDHZ1Mk2Sn_nNyYV9Aq2WcBFHjfYhQfB9GtKRVWuheQE/s1600/IMG_8006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL4NFrvbVUzCYhXXv6wFq8odlAKALC4L-fwMzrtVH_Gnawtu8pkm5oPfjYykmue4sVSdbKGdgkvECQMk2SaiesaW_d8k5ZTDlJiDHZ1Mk2Sn_nNyYV9Aq2WcBFHjfYhQfB9GtKRVWuheQE/s320/IMG_8006.jpg" width="240" /></a>That first pitch is definitely the "money pitch" of the climb but the upper pitches are quite fun as well. Matt and I romped our way to the top and walked off. The day's warming made for a tricky creek crossing on the way out but we managed with no soaked feet. We were able to take a look across at Bear Creek Falls which appears to need much more cold weather to form.Eitan Greenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12262098353712152196noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-90830630016576722802011-11-29T14:00:00.000-07:002011-11-29T14:00:28.876-07:00Skiing Red Mountain Pass<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPSyuSzwU72Mr3xH1rYkQ3P2cASzEPKAzmSrXE5m_lWGNGZyWWZqBzRbhoZP-yCPk2ZNcD_RbV_NRPAEFDR8CQiPRA6ND1DJcFGWIEC4DNvng91-U-SKImqAs16sjw2vgVvc5KjWQ678M/s1600/DSC03646.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; FLOAT: right; CLEAR: both" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPSyuSzwU72Mr3xH1rYkQ3P2cASzEPKAzmSrXE5m_lWGNGZyWWZqBzRbhoZP-yCPk2ZNcD_RbV_NRPAEFDR8CQiPRA6ND1DJcFGWIEC4DNvng91-U-SKImqAs16sjw2vgVvc5KjWQ678M/s320/DSC03646.JPG" /></a> Had a lovely day yesterday with Kathy H out on Red Mountain Pass. Kathy is working to hone her backcountry skiing skills so we headed out on the slopes of McMillon and Ohio Peaks. With very pleasant temperatures and soft faceted snow in at and below treeline we had a blast. Couldn't ask for nicer weather in the mountains - just a skiff of wind and sunny warmth. We are forecast to get a bit of snow over the next few days and into the weekend, let's hope it happens. Think today and tomorrow will be the last of the warm days for a bit - big cold front dropping in from Canada... Thanks for a great day in the mountains Kathy!<div style='clear:both; text-align:RIGHT'><a href='http://picasa.google.com/blogger/' target='ext'><img src='http://photos1.blogger.com/pbp.gif' alt='Posted by Picasa' style='border: 0px none ; padding: 0px; background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 50%; -moz-background-clip: initial; -moz-background-origin: initial; -moz-background-inline-policy: initial;' align='middle' border='0' /></a></div>Danikahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11349100014314101928noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-65318157914608131442011-11-28T07:26:00.000-07:002011-11-28T07:26:08.946-07:00Skylight Area Climbing<div style="text-align: center;">Went up to Skylight yesterday (11/27) for a fun introductory half day with Scott and Leah from Cheyenne. they were in Telluride on a short getaway and popped over for some frozen fun of a different nature. Conditions have melted-out a bit up at the skylight with the recent warm weather, but there was still plenty for us to work on.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrvHBzODv4NGEvwxtFwrzx4zMaAokWQz5uEqb9_hl_q4OGZbKjhowgVPD-h4KXdi_OBCNCkzDIWxg4JK7w5JWEbpPI50rEfrQu-oTlDyL37sHFxAC9GA55oiSzHWQDjZ9hOED6SZUZpcE/s1600/IMG_0547.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrvHBzODv4NGEvwxtFwrzx4zMaAokWQz5uEqb9_hl_q4OGZbKjhowgVPD-h4KXdi_OBCNCkzDIWxg4JK7w5JWEbpPI50rEfrQu-oTlDyL37sHFxAC9GA55oiSzHWQDjZ9hOED6SZUZpcE/s400/IMG_0547.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIaT9DxPNBZk1950rjh4jVp2qK4yHCewfn0YbSSZ7TWXlMTygsl204_Nhyphenhyphenz4Vo19VWVDk-8cy2hpQxZPKoWQNDzAuxagYOapdCyzgLPK99X2av-old-gUVvSJXT3C_ttxcp_9lh4c-dt8/s1600/IMG_0541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIaT9DxPNBZk1950rjh4jVp2qK4yHCewfn0YbSSZ7TWXlMTygsl204_Nhyphenhyphenz4Vo19VWVDk-8cy2hpQxZPKoWQNDzAuxagYOapdCyzgLPK99X2av-old-gUVvSJXT3C_ttxcp_9lh4c-dt8/s400/IMG_0541.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhptPftDi0gM-M1D8qzsZ4KfkZv11gdScvPomOS7Nv4b_lRRZ1gjfw40oFNIrcszBHe_zs66TCCssvcKFpbfpgGKssKPNAPfGoAd_2eQeESnGWjwIshXY6_sbUY7YV0dC61Tg35RUbut5A/s1600/IMG_0552.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhptPftDi0gM-M1D8qzsZ4KfkZv11gdScvPomOS7Nv4b_lRRZ1gjfw40oFNIrcszBHe_zs66TCCssvcKFpbfpgGKssKPNAPfGoAd_2eQeESnGWjwIshXY6_sbUY7YV0dC61Tg35RUbut5A/s400/IMG_0552.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl89UjkVtrEFEh0pnBKlNME6EzMXU7FlUxygUcBJdXRE8bJRPFQ6ntx1hdZpQnN9XlQAxhi3AlM9XQCJ8v19fedtdfukVVZE2z8dIfetB1HA4yNxMIsSroAHRuVTDgf7fl4L8APNoM5f8/s1600/IMG_0554.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl89UjkVtrEFEh0pnBKlNME6EzMXU7FlUxygUcBJdXRE8bJRPFQ6ntx1hdZpQnN9XlQAxhi3AlM9XQCJ8v19fedtdfukVVZE2z8dIfetB1HA4yNxMIsSroAHRuVTDgf7fl4L8APNoM5f8/s400/IMG_0554.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT0wUfXCG4E68dLSfzCBmjCx3-Ycozk02Tg7Hcx-wham1g29s3_XyfnT8a0rrB0KRjsOxSwUermoYB6yEW01fF272REKvkivPPnJVHyqaGF-adTlJdZgEc6EELqFH28W8upgaUrFpPizw/s1600/IMG_0555.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT0wUfXCG4E68dLSfzCBmjCx3-Ycozk02Tg7Hcx-wham1g29s3_XyfnT8a0rrB0KRjsOxSwUermoYB6yEW01fF272REKvkivPPnJVHyqaGF-adTlJdZgEc6EELqFH28W8upgaUrFpPizw/s400/IMG_0555.jpg" width="266" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Overall it was a beautiful morning, and these guys took right to it. General conditions are pretty lean up there, though it looks like everything would go with a cool head and soft hand.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
Cheers, CC</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div>Clint Cookhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02805868147831643883noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-56213761894392724972011-11-27T21:19:00.003-07:002011-11-27T21:36:04.335-07:00Whorehouse Hose Nov 27th<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXlsMTSgc8PvGple_3vK6MAFN5k5roa0RePDgc8a5ja-MKe19jXdLFOgRSBAsueaxNYxsWsze3_vULS2HjrwcnO4D7ZM6eTCkCu7GkfbreuM-P1dMbNXR8LVzDWa3ZyoX2C6UC632QCDA/s1600/DSC03638.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXlsMTSgc8PvGple_3vK6MAFN5k5roa0RePDgc8a5ja-MKe19jXdLFOgRSBAsueaxNYxsWsze3_vULS2HjrwcnO4D7ZM6eTCkCu7GkfbreuM-P1dMbNXR8LVzDWa3ZyoX2C6UC632QCDA/s320/DSC03638.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5679898911213767362" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT63IkSlBhjuNzdYtffGiPfKVDR4s0gm52S3W35bd2XJuz2H0STbhMIRrpCM0_rgUJr-PaQ4OQcn7axc9iQ4XcQvzxQxun-yd04VS18iTrIb_EuVpaPI0pyC3V-25wu0vVPD-DvU5n0fI/s1600/DSC03621.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT63IkSlBhjuNzdYtffGiPfKVDR4s0gm52S3W35bd2XJuz2H0STbhMIRrpCM0_rgUJr-PaQ4OQcn7axc9iQ4XcQvzxQxun-yd04VS18iTrIb_EuVpaPI0pyC3V-25wu0vVPD-DvU5n0fI/s320/DSC03621.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5679898915703132930" border="0" /></a><br />Climbed Whorehouse Hose with Annie Q today. What a GREAT day! The first pitch is in fine shape, but getting wet by noon-ish. The top-out is thin ice over rock or thin ice over the tube, tread lightly! The second pitch is wild right now... rather than the typical cruise up a snow cone and a slight bit of ice, it's thin ice over a pretty voluminous cold flow of water with reasonable ice just on the edges. Watch out for the "wading pool" 2/3 the way up the pitch - you can't see it from the bottom. We tip-toed <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwyZ3OlPja7p3cVLdN6cuakZjh-eq09-zG5nghOBMb1BZpVMqd1J7_9KRwMWHzeG_E1xWD7ntoBEV_IkghZjU61ImOKBhyBlKzfUsPaYmMUYRv94I8HwN5mgIXOvenk3uuUjmFkzvbS3E/s1600/DSC03633.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwyZ3OlPja7p3cVLdN6cuakZjh-eq09-zG5nghOBMb1BZpVMqd1J7_9KRwMWHzeG_E1xWD7ntoBEV_IkghZjU61ImOKBhyBlKzfUsPaYmMUYRv94I8HwN5mgIXOvenk3uuUjmFkzvbS3E/s320/DSC03633.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5679898921753538802" border="0" /></a>around on a thin margin of snow that may have come down with the party behind us. Ended up taking the gloves off for rock holds around the pool. Third pitch is wild right now too. It's pretty hollow for the first 40' or so (with another nice deep wading pool at the base) - each swing causing the whole thing to ring deeply. After that it's a mixture of cauliflowers, a bit of egg shells, some nice soft plastic ice and thin ice over the tube and rock. All the fixed anchors are in great shape and the snow between pitches very supportable except for the "trap doors" over the water course. Might get a bit lean with the warm temperatures forecast. Thanks for a wonderful day Annie!Danikahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11349100014314101928noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-34107122062561956872011-11-23T11:08:00.003-07:002011-11-23T11:20:14.947-07:00Direct North Face, Nov. 9th<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6pRtsvlExnpMJbBwTEl3-4vPcxwXIZx9ubid9wHwdG-RyYmfl-egLJ2ImySd3lUQXqjJmTDLptX8CQ6TiDLR5M3INbTCMt5AqkIVJagNvFv5ps2hVSU2OcpK8yNVAZmbiuY78OkEePSM/s1600/DSC03593.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6pRtsvlExnpMJbBwTEl3-4vPcxwXIZx9ubid9wHwdG-RyYmfl-egLJ2ImySd3lUQXqjJmTDLptX8CQ6TiDLR5M3INbTCMt5AqkIVJagNvFv5ps2hVSU2OcpK8yNVAZmbiuY78OkEePSM/s320/DSC03593.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5678256383898544482" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeS8S5Hc1fUALeaxHMFnROaxmo8-v78UN9IXeNkYw8V882fg9Xglxbmxan76s6kUd8fteRpyWeHRHoK9IEZS9269gj_X12GMxZ6iHI0WS32b3NEofsGGj2ZpygBEixGquQT5cbxGCtHjI/s1600/DSC03580.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeS8S5Hc1fUALeaxHMFnROaxmo8-v78UN9IXeNkYw8V882fg9Xglxbmxan76s6kUd8fteRpyWeHRHoK9IEZS9269gj_X12GMxZ6iHI0WS32b3NEofsGGj2ZpygBEixGquQT5cbxGCtHjI/s320/DSC03580.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5678256394447045346" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />We just returned from a great fall road trip. Started out on ice in South Mineral Creek outside Silverton, then off to Zion and Red Rocks for a last bit of desert sun and rock. Here are photos from Gary Ryan and I climbing the Direct North Face on Nov. 9th. The first bit was pretty straight forward so we soloed up to the WI4 pitches. We opted to split the pitch up so we both could get a little time on the sharp end of the steeper ice. It was a tiny bit wet, but fun climbing! Enjoy the photos...<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUGByYt7KatgM-ZxXwQv1IvXsD6n8o5-a88m-NaMLwO0W2WQO0AEtH3j4fXx2dSBoPfXFNvqio7UQ8BGfoRMM2z-eqnyNqz3wGkoySvDb5MpeO22B69M5dJFt8-SrYgL7S-WFh4xB6cik/s1600/DSC03582.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUGByYt7KatgM-ZxXwQv1IvXsD6n8o5-a88m-NaMLwO0W2WQO0AEtH3j4fXx2dSBoPfXFNvqio7UQ8BGfoRMM2z-eqnyNqz3wGkoySvDb5MpeO22B69M5dJFt8-SrYgL7S-WFh4xB6cik/s320/DSC03582.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5678256394827507634" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAV3NQkzoBSn_DujxaWGOBNDrwqUIGz3bQbPlsfyOy1gXaVmo3Rjbopjg-XsgD2WhExDYCAnbrwQvz8dso6N1xsByr3J4wo1gQ5Yb6GPsLLplh40AVqEP6PF7JuVg6-FTJG14sm_t55ZI/s1600/DSC03588.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAV3NQkzoBSn_DujxaWGOBNDrwqUIGz3bQbPlsfyOy1gXaVmo3Rjbopjg-XsgD2WhExDYCAnbrwQvz8dso6N1xsByr3J4wo1gQ5Yb6GPsLLplh40AVqEP6PF7JuVg6-FTJG14sm_t55ZI/s320/DSC03588.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5678256406778959570" border="0" /></a>Danikahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11349100014314101928noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-448237469439455513.post-42437238632572228552011-11-22T16:45:00.001-07:002011-11-22T16:56:39.009-07:00San Juan Powder Skiing<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLo4ibIb296K7_ohyphenhyphendgC76wDU69mG4feeLMWYraKBVO2mdVxPuAfWkxQz6xF6OZQPNJOlr9jgbf-Df9cMLsF90a5-Fj7dW8dcOhyphenhyphenyCJPPUAK3dAn9CXKoyMsloCLqxEast8678Dv3rYu__/s1600/IMG_7983.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLo4ibIb296K7_ohyphenhyphendgC76wDU69mG4feeLMWYraKBVO2mdVxPuAfWkxQz6xF6OZQPNJOlr9jgbf-Df9cMLsF90a5-Fj7dW8dcOhyphenhyphenyCJPPUAK3dAn9CXKoyMsloCLqxEast8678Dv3rYu__/s320/IMG_7983.jpg" width="240" /></a>Awesome! It is hard to believe it is only November. Fellow guides, Matt, Mark and I headed up into Commodore Basin on the hunt for early season powder skiing. What we found was snow that exceeded our expectations in both quality and quantity.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-kCW8AxKR3zbYlTDqe8yltFy1T_0IT4gDTcObGdA5y3i0XufFLLe9XeMCnire3-tXkb9ZOYBcSS4DScD5CIy1mdfUaptEgWc0kyR47KubkZ8PUrD1HZ6w7kuieQoWMHm6WPSOxnrzfhEz/s1600/IMG_7966.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-kCW8AxKR3zbYlTDqe8yltFy1T_0IT4gDTcObGdA5y3i0XufFLLe9XeMCnire3-tXkb9ZOYBcSS4DScD5CIy1mdfUaptEgWc0kyR47KubkZ8PUrD1HZ6w7kuieQoWMHm6WPSOxnrzfhEz/s320/IMG_7966.jpg" width="240" /></a>We cut several beautiful laps through the November fluff exclaiming to each other at the base of each run. We skied a bit off the shoulder of the alpine bowl that is Commodore Basin but the skiing in the pleasant open glades was probably the best. Tons of warm sun, cold powder, and phenomenal scenery made for a classic San Juan ski day.Eitan Greenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12262098353712152196noreply@blogger.com