Sunday, November 29, 2009

Went to Eureka Thursday morning and soloed Stairway. The only thin spots were the first roll in the middle of pitch one, but it would have taken an ice screw a few feet earlier and then could walk flat footed within two moves. Also the top of pitch four was thin as always as it transitions into the snow.
While I was there I talked to a party who had just done second gully and they said it was great.
Road to Nowhere and Whorehouse Hoses also looked good from the road. I could see that the top of Hosers' Highway looked excellent but couldn't see the mixed pitch, hope to rememdy that this week.

Friday soloed Campground Couloir, Snowblind, and DNF in South Mineral. All were in better than average condition. I only climbed two small wet steps, the rest were dry and fat. All routes are clearly seeing regular traffic.

Thursday, November 26, 2009

Ice Park Conditions and Opening

Walked thru the ice park a couple days ago. It is looking GOOD. Let's all hope for continued cold nights till opening weekend Dec. 19.

Think Cold Thoughts! Won't be long now.

Friday, November 20, 2009

Had a chance to check out Eureka and South Mineral some more. Still pretty slim pickings.
We climbed Stairway on Wed. It was a little more engaging than usual, but there were a few decent screws and all the fixed anchors were easy to use.

Then we went to SMC today. We climbed the DNF thru the first three big steps via the M5 variation on the right of the 1st major pillar. Fun choss scaling, all you need is a grey C3.

There was a friendly party of 3 on the route as we rapped. Pictured below is their leader topping out on the slightly wet main pillar crux.

We went over and climbed Snowblind thru the first chockstone, the rest looked fine as well, but Davy caught a piece of ice with his nose and we opted for PBR at the Brown Bear.

Slow start, but some climbing can be done. Cheers, CC.

Monday, November 16, 2009


Went over to check out Eureka today. Still pretty bony. I went part way up Gully 2, but every pocket of snow was cracking out, so I opted to bail before the final gully. Jim T. soloed Stairway though after I left, said the top outs were a little spicy but overall pretty fun.

Probably best to wait a bit longer before heading onto the ice for most folks.

Cheers. Think Cold Thoughts. CC

Sunday, November 15, 2009


Our AMGA exam was cancelled today due to snow - so what else to do but get out and play in it!?

Ryan, Tracy, Bean and I (along with Avellana and Stella) went out later in the day on the second wave (Clint got out before us) for some wiggling in the white fluffy stuff.

While still a bit shallow of a snowpack - we had some great turns just off Red Mountain Pass. Here are some photos...

Seems like winter may be here to stay now?!

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

Ice climbing for Halloween

I think this may have been my earliest outing ever for ice... and what a great day it was. Drove up Eureka to take the skis and ice tools for a walk. On the drive we noticed a little flow just south of Whorehouse that looked good - and no skis needed. We drove a little higher to make sure it was the best looking flow; here's the report:

Stairway - thin, fragile looking, but had ice on all the pitches
1st & 2nd gullies and the rest of the S. facing flows - very wet, thin and falling down
Whorehouse - thin and lots of water, a little ice

Heard news of some very wet conditions and marginal ice in S. Mineral Creek, but didn't check it out.

Here's the flow we climbed. Sorry for the bad pic - all I had was the cell phone...

Also worthy of noting - there was good ice forming up on Gravity's Rainbow and the ice up in Bear Creek. The afternoon heat is melting it all fast though...