Thursday, December 8, 2011

Ouray Ice: The Ribbon

Matt and I were back at it today checking out the Ouray ice conditions and they are great. For one, with the cold temps the ice park looks bigger every day and should be open before you know it. The whole Skylight area is very much in right now. The new snow and the warm days have been refreshing the climbs that were getting a bit hacked out. It should look like new up there in time for the weekend.

Today however, Matt and I got on The Ribbon. This is the striking line you can see from the Camp Bird parking area. The first pitch was a bit spicy. While the tool sticks were good, the protection was a bit tricky due to the aerated and thin ice with no real pro in the easier climbing low down. The second and Third pitches are in great shape however and are totally worth the run out on the first one.

Many people seem to miss the bolted anchors on this route. There is one at the top of the snow ramp that is sometimes a first pitch on the right. The pitch 1 anchors are just past the steep part on the left. The anchors at the top of pitch 2 are on the right twenty or so feet below the second steep part. The final pitch ends at some bolts on the right you should not have to use the manky pin anchor above the good bolt one. Rap the route with 2 60m raps and grab a beer and burger!