THE FUTURE ICE MASTERS.

This past Sunday we had the first Kids Ice day of the season.

We all had a super good times.

It was great to see how psyched this kids were about ice climbing.. It will be great to see this great ice climbers 10 years from know. In the end they are going to be the future of the sport right !!!!

The instruction that they had was top notch.

(In this photo Clint Cook SJMG director giving 101 ice technique)

Is never to early or to late to practice, try, or master Ice climbing!!!!!!

If you have any doubts check out this little Ice master :)

Stay tun up and get your ice on!!!!!.

Andres

Current Ouray Conditions

Currently the Schoolroom and Kids Wall are open for climbing, and are in ok shape. Colder temps are forecast over the new year holiday so hopefully we will get some new ice grown.

The Skylight area is in pretty good shape and seeing plenty of traffic. The recent wet snow in the highcountry has coated a number of climbs in a thick snicy concoction. We should be able to start venturing out a little further this week, and will post what we find!

Cheers CC

Lots of Ice Climbing!

We had a busy weekend despite the recent nice weather. A number of guides were in different spots, but I had the distinct pleasure of guiding Anthony C. from Australia. Ant had some alpine experience in New Zealand, but this was his first trip to Ouray.

We spent the first day at the Skylight area climbing Slip Slidin Away, Slippery When Wet, and the 1st pitch of the Skylight. Day 2 we went to Whorehouse Hoses and found super good conditions on the whole route. Here are some pics.

Anthony topping out the 70m 1st pitch of Whorehouse Hoses.

Your local friendly mountain guide. Top of Pitch 3 Left.

Ant raps our last pitch.

Right Pitch 3. WI4, a tad hollow in the middle.

Ant raps Pitch 1 as another party heads up the groovy left side.

It's sweet out there! CC

TALISMAN

Some days ago myself (Andres) and my partner Steve House decide to go climb the Talisman.

We had the opportunity to do the first ascent of the season, and for our surprise we find the route being very engaging.
The first pitch was totally dry so we end up taking the right side where we wore able to climb some frozen Mose.

The second pitch it was awesome very hard mixed climbing with a great ice pillar finish.
Here Steve is starting the third pitch. What a great pitch.... Very steep pitch.

All good times with a great climbing partner.Talisman pitch by pitch rating as we find it:

P1: 5.6 R S

P2:M6 WI 5+

P3:WI 5+

P4:WI5

Andres Marin, Steve House.

A Little Fix

Went out this afternoon for a quick solo of the Ribbon. It's in the fattest condition I've seen in a couple seasons. It has already seen numerous ascents for the season, 2/3 to 3/4 of my sticks were just improving on the hooks already put there by others. The first steep section had holes from 10 and 13cm screws and the upper section looks like it will take at least a 17cm. Sorry no pictures, my hands were otherwise occupied.

Eureka Ice Climbing

I had the pleasure of guiding Charlie from NM on Sunday. He was one of the first guys I took out with SJMG 10 years ago. It was Charlie's first day of the winter season, and we chose the fun Gully 2 in Eureka. The road looked a little spicy so opted to walk in. There were 2 parties on Stairway as we approached. 

Stairway to Heaven III WI4+ (11/28/10)

 The conditions on both Gullies and Goldrush have improved significantly since my last visit. We climbed all the way to the last chains on Gully 2 and then rappelled via chains and threads. We past a friendly party on our way down and one soloist. A fairly busy day for Silverton! 

1st pitch of Gully 2.

Top of pitch 3.

Hoser's Highway looked steep and proud, but very doable. Stairway is good to go. Whorehouse looked really big from the parking lot.

In other areas, folks have been climbing the Ames Ice Hose in quite lean conditions, as well as the Talisman. The Ribbon is seeing regular traffic and BBB is getting climbed despite its lean shape. Skylight climbs are all ok as well. Have Fun!!! CC

Giving Thanks

We've been out sampling the San Juan powder the past few days, with outtings on both sides of Red Mountain Pass. Conditions are good overall and getting more stable. Hoping we get a bit more new snow today and tomorrow - lower down coverage is a bit thin. Slabs are out there at, above and just below treeline, although there is very little movement in these now. Powder is good and supportable everywhere except in a few isolated locations at roll-overs and next to trees and rocks (as should be expected). Temps have really warmed up the past few days, which makes for even more pleasant outtings! Here's a shot from a warm afternoon at Sam's trees.