Rock Climbing in the Moab Desert

Spent last weekend over in Moab, climbing with Bill from California. It was his first experience climbing the unique sandstone of this area. With some specific instruction on different hand and foot jamming techniques, pointers on combining these techniques into movement sequences, and a few practice laps; Bill was climbing right up some challenging cracks. 

We started off at the very popular Wall Street area. We were the first ones there and were able to jump around and climb exactly the routes we wanted all day. We alternated between classic slab routes like Snake Slab 5.8, and classic crack routes like the Flakes of Wrath 5.9+. Each of these routes has different opportunities for learning different skills. We had an awesome first day with over 10 pitches of sandstone sweetness!

The Snake Slab 5.8+, Wall Street

The Flakes of Wrath 5.9+, Wall Street

 We wrapped up the trip with the world famous and very unique Ancient Art Tower. Located in the Fisher Towers outside of Moab, Ancient Art is a twisted spire of Cutler Sandstone that appears to defy the laws of gravity. After a couple pitches of bolted face and fun chimney climbing we were positioned under the final column in the sky. Everything was very fun and Bill enjoyed his momentary perch high above the desert floor.

Bill starting up the final pitch on the Stolen Chimney II 5.9 A0, Ancient Art, Fisher Towers

Don't Slip! Bill braves the exposure and has a stand on top!

Sweet trip! Thanks Bill!

Cheers, CC

Spring in the San Juans

Changing seasons here in the San Juans. One day its beautiful and the next it snows a bunch!

There is plenty of good skiing around, and super nice rock climbing in the sun as well. It should be a good alpine season, although maybe a little later to start perhaps. It has definitely been a late winter around Ouray. Not sure how the roads are plowed out everywhere, but there is still a lot of snow up high.

June and July should prove to be great times for climbing snow and ice routes on the high peaks of the Sneffels, Wilson, and Cimarron ranges.

Right now we are all climbing in the desert or Black Canyon or skiing. Hope everyone out there is enjoying Spring as well! I'm headed to Alaska for a 12-day alpine expedition, but am already looking forward to the sunny rock climbing and beautiful alpine climbing back here!

Cheers, Clint

While many are turning their attention to the coming spring time, a few hardy souls know that the ice climbing is not only still good, the crowds are gone. Scott and I enjoyed two quiet days in the ice park. The second day we were joined by Dave and had the whole scottish gullies area to ourselves.

Scott and Dave both had ice climbed before but were looking for a refresher on the foundations of their ice climbing skills. We worked our way through San Juan Mountain Guides uniquely effective ice climbing curriculum. From triangles to monkey hangs to flagging and using your hips, Scott and Dave quickly moved from low angle ice to vertical ice to

over hung chandeliered ice. Exercises like climbing with no tools then with one tool and climbing without kicking or swinging taught the duo how to stay stable on their feet and how to move creatively on the deceptively varied medium of ice.

Great job gentlemen we look forward to going even bigger next year!

Train to Go Big

Matt has big plans. This spring he is headed to Mount Rainier's Liberty Ridge, a spectacular objective in and of itself. The ice tower some climbers in Michigan constructed near Matt's home was not quite enough training. So Matt decided to come out to Ouray, Colorado for four jam packed days of steep snow and lots and lots of ice.

Matt and I hit the must see venues of Ouray ice climbing. We spent the obligatory day in the ice park honing Matt's technique over the course of around a thousand feet of climbing. The next day we figured, why not a thousand more? So we headed over for a sunny day on Eureka's Stairway to Heaven. Though the good weather did not hold Matt and I were able to get plenty of climbing in over the next two days on Horsetail Falls, several routes at the Skylight area, and a few long laps in the Pic o' the Vic area in the ice park to wind down the day.

Matt is climbing strong and certainly ready to take on Liberty Ridge. Good luck Matt!

P.S. Watch the top outs on Skylight they are a bit slushy/non-existent.

SUCAP Ice Trip

This morning I had the pleasure of guiding a very different group, kids! It is really fun to work with young folks who are excited to explore ice climbing. These particular kids from Ignacio, CO came as a part of a Southern Ute Community Action Program (SUCAP) trip. SUCAP is dedicated to supporting the community of Igancio and communities across La Plata County.

The trip to ice climb in Ouray with the crew here at San Juan Mountain Guides is one of several designed to give the kids access to the exciting recreation right in their backyards. It was fun to watch the kids beam as they met their friends at the end of the day who had opted for more horizontal recreation . The kids displayed such pride at having tried something new, overcome their fears, and set and accomplished goals they set for themselves.

San Juan Ice Climbing

My old friend Paul is back in town for w tune up before our annual Canada pilgrimage. It has been super rewarding watching Paul develop over the last few seasons. This trip we started at the Skylight area, ticking all the major flows. 

Paul coming up into the upper chimney on Slippery When Wet.

 After that we tackled the Ribbon in good alpine conditions. Then he climbed Whorehouse with Kevin. Today we went over and climbed Bridalveil Falls. Super trip so far!

Finishing up around the awkward traverse into the 1st belay.

Bridalveil Falls WI5- 2/17/11

Looking strong Paul!

Cheers, CC

Cascade Falls

Its been cold in Ouray, like everywhere else... Here that means you get to climb Cascade Falls.

Dawn Glanc headed up 8th ave this morning with David K. to have a look. There was the obligatory funk section surmounting the cone, but all in all it looked pretty fun!