Friday, February 12, 2010

Ames Ice Hose

Climbed the Ames Ice Hose on Wednesday with Paul from Seattle. It was good. The first pillar is pretty much all dry hooking in shallow holes with stubbies in rotten blobs for pro, I put in one on the first pillar. The LZ is looking much better though if you do decide to pitch. We linked 1 and 2 together with 70's. The Chimney is super fun, good screws when you want them. The 3rd pitch is awesome as always, true WI4 for 200 feet.

I'm often asked how we break this climb up, so... I like to bring double 70's. Link 1 and 2 to the 2nd set of chains. From there, bump up to the pin anchor high on the upper ledge. 1 more long pitch to the trees on top. I rap with 70's from the lower climber's left tree to the 2nd chain anchor, then to the ground. This is the least shrapnel exposed way to do it. Lot of other variations exist if you only have 60's.

Cheers, CC