We had heard the hose was looking in, so we went to investigate. The approach was pretty mellow, and the climb in good shape. I won the flip and headed up the first pillar.
It was in nice thin condition with soft ice and plenty of spots for 10cm screws.
I stretched all 70m of rope to the second belay thru the chimney pitch. This is probably my favorite pitch in the area, and it is fantastic right now. There's not much for screws, but you can get 3 good cams half way thru the chimney.
Kevin took all the screws for the ensuing 230 foot WI4 mega pitch, and off he went.
This pitch is only 12-20 feet wide right now and very sweet, and wet. It should grow to normal size rapidly.
2 70meter rappels get you down very easily. I have never rapped of the blocks to the left of the route. There should be enough ice for a fat v-thread station soon as well for those without 70 m doubles.Great day on one of the best ice climbs anywhere.
CC
