Saturday, January 16, 2010


Climbed Stairway to Heaven - the day after Whore House Hoses - on another picture perfect high pressure day. It was a few degrees below zero when we started, but warmed up pretty quickly as the day progressed.

The crux third pitch was a bit funky with chandelier ice that offered sinker tool placements, but marginal crampon sticks - a bit of gardening required from the footwork to get into solid ground. The steep section of chandelier ice was pretty well unprotectable in those conditions, but it only amounted to around 3-4 body lengths until you were back into the goods.

This year offers a bonus 6th pitch of Grade 2/3 ice for those interested in stretching the climb out.

The walk-off after the 5th pitch is a calf deep boot track all the way to the couloir. Catch it before the next big snow.

Respectfully submitted,

Grey Squirrel