Toledo, OH to Ouray, CO

It seems like a long way to go to climb frozen waterfalls, but judging by the grins on these guys faces, it was well worth it. I got to spend 2 days climbing with Brian and Walt from Toledo.  Both of them had done some ice climbing before and Brian recently climbed Everest and completed his seventh summit. Both wanted to improve their climbing skills and came to Ouray to do it.

We spent the first day in the Ice Park working on their technique in the Scottish Gullies and South Park and the School Room. Both improved their foot work enormously and climbed some steep lines! The second day we enjoyed the backcountry gem Dexter Creek Slabs. At the base we sampled the delicious smoked cheddar cheese and sausage that Walt shared with the team.

Thanks for a great day gentlemen! I hope to see you back for other classic like Whorehouse Hoses, Stairway, or 2nd Gulley.

Making Ice Climbing Safer

Here at San Juan Mountain Guides we are all about ice climbing in the winter. However, part of what makes us different is our emphasis on education. I like to take part of my days out with folks to explain how the safety systems we use in ice climbing work. For those interested, we talk about placing your own protection, building anchors and leading ice climbs.

The internet puts a great deal of information about ice climbing at our finger tips, if you know where to look. Understanding the forces involved and the dynamics of the medium and equipment helps me climb safer. Together with a day or two of instruction this collection of links and articles will surely help you climb safer, enjoy!

Placing Ice Screws

Petzl Ice Anchors Testing

Anchor testing article

Fall on Ice with Will Gadd’s analysis

Screamers or not? 

Dispatches from the Ouray Ice Park

Swingin'!

The warm weather has made for "hero" ice conditions in the ice park. The softened, but not overly melting ice makes of endless one-swing-stick-bliss! If you were ever thinking of getting on a particularly hard ice climbing now is the time while the ice is as user friendly as ever.

Kickin'!

I have had the pleasure of exploring ice technique with a number of wonderful folks from all over the country over the last few days. We have hung out in the Scottish Gullies, The School Room, and South Park going through the San Juan Mountain Guides' Ice Curriculum.

Relaxin'!

We start with no tools on low angle ice to learn to trust the crampons and to develop solid foot work and stability. Next we incorporate one tool. Here we learn to swing and where the tool goes relative to the rest of our body position. Last, we put all the pieces together with both tools and swing and kick our way with  perfect form up the ice until our forearms turn to jelly!

Kids Ice Climbing College

Future San Juan Mountain Guide?

Every year at San Juan Mountain Guides we run a number of free kids climbing clinics at the Ice Park. It is pretty remarkable to be able to offer young kids the chance to try out a sport once reserved only for adults. We are the only people in the world I know of who have a fleet of specially modified ice tools for kids to try ice climbing.

Guides helping future ice masters get roped up and ready to go!

The guides of SJMG, people with experience climbing ice all over the country and the world, coach kids up the ice, teaching them to balance on their crampons while they swing into the ice. It is fun watching kids problem solve their way to the tops of the climbs and gratifying to see their smiles when they notice the view from the top.

World famous mountaineers to be take their first steps.

Swingin' and kickin' to the top!

These future ice masters rocked the ice park yesterday. Kids clinics are for kids 8-17 and are totally free. All of the clinics are at the upper bridge at the Ouray Ice Park. Here are the 2012 dates:

Sat, Jan 7, 10a-3p

Sun, Jan 8, 10a-2p

Sun, Feb12, 12p-4p

Click here for details. See you there!

Stairway to Heaven

I had a wonderful day out in Eureka yesterday with Liba. It was our second day out in the backcountry working on leading skills. Liba did a GREAT job leading the second pitch and then taking us to the top. Stairway is in pretty good shape and the approach about as easy as it gets - although it started snowing as we left. Thanks for a fantastic day Liba.

Ouray Ice Park Time!

We all eagerly awaited like children in front of the case at the local chocolate shop Mouse's Chocolates as we watched the ice park grow faster and faster as the weather got cold. Our anticipation built with the ice in the park until finally... it opened.


I spent two days climbing in the Ouray Ice Park with Russell form CO. He had never tried ice climbing before but wanted to expand his outdoor recreation repertoire. During our time together we built Russell's foundation on low angle ice. He quickly grasped the technique and moved on to steeper climbing.




It was really fun getting to hang in the ice park with Russell and revisit some of my favorite climbs in the park. It was a treat to get to work on the finer points of kicking and swinging and balancing our way up  any one of over 200 freshly frozen ice climbs . Thanks for a great day Russell.

Ouray Ice: Dexter Slabs

Dexter Slabs, 4 pitches

Mt. Ridgway

While Ouray is known for the Ouray Ice Park set to open next weekend, there is also a great deal of backcountry ice climbs that make for nice beginner and intermediate excursions outside the park. I climbed one of these, Dexter Slabs, with my roommates yesterday. It was Whitney's first multi-pitch ice climb and she did great! This climb is a great first tall climb with straightforward climbing, steep sections, rappelling off v-threads, and of course, great views. All in all it is certainly a full value outing and I can't wait to show more folks this great climb.

Good times high above the Uncompahgre River Valley

For people thinking about a trip to the San Juans who really want to check out the ice I often recommend a 2-4 day itinerary. Day 1 in the park learning the basics, day 2 on a beginner multi pitch climb like Dexter Slabs. Usually we take days 3 and 4 to get on some bigger, harder climbs or for a day of skiing! We look forward to seeing you soon.