Canada Wrap Up

Back in Ouray from Canada. Bill and I finished up strong. Great week to end on! For our last three days we climbed the area classics...

Louise Falls 110 m WI5
The Professor Falls 280 m WI4+

Carlsberg Column 140 m WI5

Carlsberg Column Pitch 2

Carlsberg Column Pitch 3

Time to start thinking about Alaska!
Cheers, CC

Oh Canada!

Well, I wrapped up with Paul a week or so ago. We went out with a bang! Paul stepped up and bagged one of the coolest ice routes on the planet, The Sorcerer.

We took it easy on his last day and climbed the classic Guinness Gully. Awesome week, great temps, and good company. I love my job.

Next up were Bobby and Pat from North Carolina. They are Ouray veterans, but this was their first trip to the great white north. We started with the classic Louise Falls, which was a bit burlier than usual and a solid WI5. After a good snowfall, we opted for the Weeping Wall and Icefields tour. Interesting climbing,followed by spectacular scenery.

Weeping Wall

Mt Assiniboine

Mt Andromeda

Mt Athabasca, North Face

Once again we wrapped up the trip with an ascent of the Guinness Gully. Super nice three days.

On Monday I started with the animal himself, Bill K. from San Fransisco. Bill and I have shared some amazing climbs together over the years, but this was his first trip to climb ice in Canada. We started with Guinness Gully, and then made the walk up to the phenomenal Guinness Stout, an extra 80meters of superb WI4+. We went for another mega-classic today and tackled the beautiful Murchison Falls.
Here's Bill coming into the last belay.

It's been fantastic so far. 3 more days to go on this year's Canadian Ice Odyssey. Big Plans!

Cheers, CC

More Canadian Classics!

Thanks for the Ouray update Kevin! Looks good down there!

Paul and I continue to be on a good streak up here in Canada. Friday we climbed the "Showpiece of the Canadian Rockies", Polar Circus. 2100 feet WI5. Temps have been quite nice, and the ice is in good shape.

Here is a look at the final 90m WI5 headwall on Polar Circus.

Yesterday we went into the Ghost and climbed the famous Wicked Wanda. She wasn't quite as wicked as in years past, but still super fun!
Paul and I have a couple days yet to go, and then I'll start with a fresh crew!

Cheers, CC.

Ice conditions in the San Juans

In spite of the warm temps as of late the ice climbing remains superb!!

Dexter: Still super fat but likely to have some surface effect from the warm sunny days.

Skylight area: The usual suspects are all in great shape. I hear talk around town of people climbing Killer Pillar. It looks like this area will be good for quite some time.

Ouray Ice Park: FAT CITY! The park is in great shape. Bryson and his crew did an awesome job building things up during the second half of the season. Barring and big rain storms, we'll be climbing in the park for a while. This really is the best time to visit Ouray, the days are getting longer, the weather is great, and the sun actually peeks into the canyon in spots.

Ribbon & Birdbrain: Have seen a few ascents but conditions have been pretty lean. Keep your eyes open though. Many years these climbs will come in quick during March as a result of melt / freeze cycles.

Horsetail: Still in great shape.

Engineer: Hammered by the warm sunny days.

Silverton: Super fat and seeing some traffic since the Avy hazard has calmed down a bit following the previous storm cycles.

Bridalveil & Ames Ice Hose: Still in great shape. First pitch of the Hose is a little thin, the rock start is always a good option.

Thanks for your interest in ice conditions around Ouray. We look forward to seeing you around town.

Happy Trails,
KAK

Canada Ice!

Hey Gang!

Up in Canmore guiding routes around here. I know its not Ouray conditions, but....

So far, Paul and I have done: Moonlight and 2 low 4 zero in Evan Thomas, Carlsberg Column, Coire Dubh Integrale, and Polar Circus. Despite the warm temps, the ice has been fantastic.


Hope everyone is having a great March down South!

Cheers, CC

San Juan Ice Conditions Update

Dexter: Still Fat.

Horsetail: Good ice, little snowy. Some guys climbed Bear Creek today as well in "refrozen" conditions.

Skylight: All major flows are good to go. Did all 4 on Friday. Killer Pillar is not fully formed. Tourist Trap and Fractured Fairytales have plenty of ice.

Ice Park: Sweetness everywhere!

Ribbon and Birdbrain: Climbable, I guess. I haven't done either this year.

Engineer: Nada.

Silverton: I'm sure the ice is good, but avi conditions are a bit sketch for us to send guides that way yet.

Bridalveil: Busy, a little different than usual. Definitely IN.

Ice Hose: Good, don't expect gear on the first crux.

Silverpick: Appeared to not be in while driving by.

Ames Ice Hose

Climbed the Ames Ice Hose on Wednesday with Paul from Seattle. It was good. The first pillar is pretty much all dry hooking in shallow holes with stubbies in rotten blobs for pro, I put in one on the first pillar. The LZ is looking much better though if you do decide to pitch. We linked 1 and 2 together with 70's. The Chimney is super fun, good screws when you want them. The 3rd pitch is awesome as always, true WI4 for 200 feet.

I'm often asked how we break this climb up, so... I like to bring double 70's. Link 1 and 2 to the 2nd set of chains. From there, bump up to the pin anchor high on the upper ledge. 1 more long pitch to the trees on top. I rap with 70's from the lower climber's left tree to the 2nd chain anchor, then to the ground. This is the least shrapnel exposed way to do it. Lot of other variations exist if you only have 60's.

Cheers, CC