A few things are forming up in the highcountry. We went and climbed the Direct North Face Routes in South Mineral Creek. The pillars were a bit funky, but the lower angles terrain is in good shape. Campground couloirs have some ice on them, but thin. Other reports show some ice on Snowblind and the upper parts of Stairway. Now we just need some more cold precip. Looks like its going to be a nice week for rock climbing though. It won't be long now.
CC
Monday, October 27, 2008
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Canyoneering Photos
Here is a link to another trip report for Cascade Creek. There is a good photo gallery as well. Check it out if you are interested.
http://www.canyoneering.net/forums/blog.php?b=146
CC
http://www.canyoneering.net/forums/blog.php?b=146
CC
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
Black Canyon Season
It is starting to get really nice in the Black Canyon. First day of
Autumn means its time to go to the North Rim, right?
I've been down SOB twice in the last couple weeks. It is brisk in the dawn chill, but the sun soon creeps around depending on what route you do. Kevin hadn't had the pleasure of climbing the Casual Route, so with some clouds above we opted for a shorter objective. The old school 5.8 squeeze-chimney is always a good grovel.
I went back with GMon and climbed the Russian Arete on Monday. It was great. There were two parties in the canyon, light clouds, and beautiful oak brush colors on the rim. The climb features lots of fun 5.8 stemming, a steep 5.9 pegmatite corner, and lots of 4th and 5th class ridge climbing to get off. A true Black Adventure for fit moderate climbers.
Enjoy the Autumn! CC
Autumn means its time to go to the North Rim, right?
I've been down SOB twice in the last couple weeks. It is brisk in the dawn chill, but the sun soon creeps around depending on what route you do. Kevin hadn't had the pleasure of climbing the Casual Route, so with some clouds above we opted for a shorter objective. The old school 5.8 squeeze-chimney is always a good grovel.
I went back with GMon and climbed the Russian Arete on Monday. It was great. There were two parties in the canyon, light clouds, and beautiful oak brush colors on the rim. The climb features lots of fun 5.8 stemming, a steep 5.9 pegmatite corner, and lots of 4th and 5th class ridge climbing to get off. A true Black Adventure for fit moderate climbers.
Enjoy the Autumn! CC
Monday, September 22, 2008
Canyoneering in Ouray.
We have been exploring some of the canyons around Ouray this summer. They have gotten a little publicity in the canyoneering community, so we thought we should investigate. The first foray was down Portland Creek, known as Ivan's Trail. It was nice and scenic with one significant rappel under the Ampitheather Bridge. Kevin pulls the rope in the photo below.
Next up was Oak Creek Canyon. It was much longer with incredible atmosphere and soaring cliffs on both sides. We did many long rappels, including the 200 footer down the main falls seen below.
We wanted to check out Cascade Creek Canyon next, so we invested in the 600 feet of canyoneering rope that greatly facilitates the long rappel over Cascade Falls itself. We entered the canyon halfway up its distance to Chief Ouray. It was pretty wild negotiating the numerous drops, slids, and down-climbs. There was one especially entertaining 3 stage waterfall. Eventually we got down to the big tree anchor for ice climbing Cascade Falls. We tied a macrame anchor with the 600 foot rope and rapped down. I must say it was a little unnerving at first to rappel such a long waterfall, but good clean fun. The last 3 photos show some of the cool canyon scenery on the way down Cascade.
Next up was Oak Creek Canyon. It was much longer with incredible atmosphere and soaring cliffs on both sides. We did many long rappels, including the 200 footer down the main falls seen below.
We wanted to check out Cascade Creek Canyon next, so we invested in the 600 feet of canyoneering rope that greatly facilitates the long rappel over Cascade Falls itself. We entered the canyon halfway up its distance to Chief Ouray. It was pretty wild negotiating the numerous drops, slids, and down-climbs. There was one especially entertaining 3 stage waterfall. Eventually we got down to the big tree anchor for ice climbing Cascade Falls. We tied a macrame anchor with the 600 foot rope and rapped down. I must say it was a little unnerving at first to rappel such a long waterfall, but good clean fun. The last 3 photos show some of the cool canyon scenery on the way down Cascade.
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
Chamonix, Zermatt, and Grindelwald
Greetings from Grindelwald! I'm firing this post out from the Mountain Hostel in Grindelwald, Suisse. In a few minutes I'll jump on the train to Zurich and be headed back to the States. My future daughter has been waiting patiently for me to return, so I better get to it! Despite some rough weather and difficult conditions the last couple weeks, Dr. Forg and I managed to have a great 12 day trip in three of the main alpine centers in Europe.We started off in Chamonix to 2 solid days of driving rain that left Mont Blanc covered in loads of fresh snow. With an avalanche catching parties the day before and more rain coming we opted to bail to Zermatt early. One more rainy day spent in the Gorner Gorge, and day 4 dawned clear. We did a couple routes on the Riffelhorn. The photo above is of the doc on the summit.
We then climbed Pollux the next day in fine weather. After that came the ultra-classic Half-Traverse of the Breithorn. Photo 2 shows Pat hydrating before heading to the third summit of the traverse. We went up to the Matterhorn the next day for some recon, and soon found too much fresh snow still covering most of the route.
So instead, the next day we bussed over to the Saas Valley and climbed the beautiful 15 pitch Panorama Route (5b or 5.8) on the SE face of the Jagihorn. Excellent climbing and a beautiful day. As we waited at the bus stop, I got a call informing me that the Mittellegi Hut on the Eiger would not be opening for our reservation to climb on the 22nd.
We still went to Grindelwald, and instead went to the Monch Hut and climbed the pleasant SE Ridge to the summit. A hearty lunch, and we were ready to try the Jungfrau the next day. 
But once again the mountains had different ideas. We awoke to a stiff wind, biting snow, and bad visibility. Above you can see the weather still enveloping the Eiger in the afternoon. We went back doen the Jungfraubahn to Grindelwald and enjoyed a nice hike below the Schwarzhorn instead. This beautiful landscape is just below the towering North Face of Wetterhorn and inhabitated by many lazy and friendly alpine cows.
More to come from Colorado! Cheers, Clint
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Rainbows of color in the alpine basins!!!
Greetings All!
Today Kurt and I climbed Sneffels via the SW Ridge and descended the Lavender Col Route. It was an amazing morning to be out in the San Juans. The couloir leading to the SW ridge still holds a ton of snow, a really nice variation to gain the ridge. We elected to make the trip to Blue Lakes pass and take in the view. Very little snow on the trail getting up to the pass, just a bit on top that can be skirted on rocks to the west. Please be carefull if you choose to travel off trail and off the snow. The flora up high is springing to life right now and is quite fragile. Please consider staying on the trails and snow.
Speaking of flowers!!! I was blown away by the color to be seen high in the alpine basins. It seems like we are just rolling into what could be one of the best wildflower seasons of recent years. Please consider booking a photo hike early, as space will certainly be in high demand.
Happy Trails,
Kevin
Thursday, July 10, 2008
I had a great week in Zermatt with Paul from New York. We started with a shake-down day on the Riffelhorn just to see where he was at. I hadn't climbed with Paul before, and was pleasantly surprised with both his skill level and good humor. We took a quick run up the Skyline route and down the normal route to practice some short-roping techniques and he did very well. The photo below is on our first summit of the day, very picturesque with the main event in the background.
After the Skyline, we headed around to the South Face and climbed the nine (short) pitches of the Thermoteregg Couloir Route (French 4c). It was a beautiful day and the climbing was super-fun. Paul cruised all the pitches in approach shoes, and we had the popular climbing area all to ourselves. You can see him below climbing the classic dihedral first done in the 1940's!
Day's 2 and 3 were some fine rain in the valley, with high winds up high. After waiting, unsuccessfully, for the Kleine Matterhorn tram to open for an attempt on Pollux we opted to take in the Gorner Gorge Adventure instead. The next day the lift was open, but the weather was only good enough for tea in the buffet at 3800 meters with the rest of the local guides. Day 4 dawned clear, and we went up to climb the classic Half-Traverse of the Breithorn. We tagged along behind local guide Sam Anthamatten, who was kind enough to chop beautiful steps up the hard snow approach. Paul loved the climb, and he was looking in fine shape to give the Matterhorn a go. The photo below is leading up the top of the third rock step.
On July 9th we went up to the Hornlihutte, scoped the first hour of the route, and had a delicious pork chop and mashed potato dinner. The local guides were not yet guiding the route due to the recent snows covering much of the route. This definitely ramps up the difficulty of climbing the Matterhorn, and there were a number of recreational parties still trickling in at 1am as we slumbered in our bunks!
We awoke at 3:30am to still skies and warm temperatures. After a couple cups of coffee we were first out the door, followed closely by a couple friendly brits we had shared the dinner table with the night before. Conditions made it a little slower than usual, but we made it to the top in good form, the first team for the day. The first photo shows me leading up the Lower Moseley Slab with the Solvay hut at the top.
This photo is from the summit of the Matterhorn, where Paul proudly displays his local gym's t-shirt. It was absolutely perfect on top!
We made good time back down through softening snow, and had 5 minutes to spare on the last lift back to Zermatt!
Cheers! Clint
After the Skyline, we headed around to the South Face and climbed the nine (short) pitches of the Thermoteregg Couloir Route (French 4c). It was a beautiful day and the climbing was super-fun. Paul cruised all the pitches in approach shoes, and we had the popular climbing area all to ourselves. You can see him below climbing the classic dihedral first done in the 1940's!
Day's 2 and 3 were some fine rain in the valley, with high winds up high. After waiting, unsuccessfully, for the Kleine Matterhorn tram to open for an attempt on Pollux we opted to take in the Gorner Gorge Adventure instead. The next day the lift was open, but the weather was only good enough for tea in the buffet at 3800 meters with the rest of the local guides. Day 4 dawned clear, and we went up to climb the classic Half-Traverse of the Breithorn. We tagged along behind local guide Sam Anthamatten, who was kind enough to chop beautiful steps up the hard snow approach. Paul loved the climb, and he was looking in fine shape to give the Matterhorn a go. The photo below is leading up the top of the third rock step.
On July 9th we went up to the Hornlihutte, scoped the first hour of the route, and had a delicious pork chop and mashed potato dinner. The local guides were not yet guiding the route due to the recent snows covering much of the route. This definitely ramps up the difficulty of climbing the Matterhorn, and there were a number of recreational parties still trickling in at 1am as we slumbered in our bunks!We awoke at 3:30am to still skies and warm temperatures. After a couple cups of coffee we were first out the door, followed closely by a couple friendly brits we had shared the dinner table with the night before. Conditions made it a little slower than usual, but we made it to the top in good form, the first team for the day. The first photo shows me leading up the Lower Moseley Slab with the Solvay hut at the top.
This photo is from the summit of the Matterhorn, where Paul proudly displays his local gym's t-shirt. It was absolutely perfect on top!
We made good time back down through softening snow, and had 5 minutes to spare on the last lift back to Zermatt!
Cheers! Clint
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