Friday, November 12, 2010

Eureka!

11/10/10 Stairway was still a little thin but improving, so we continued on to Highway to Hell.
It had a couple pitches of thin but low angle ice. This pitch was about grade 4 and took good screws. There is another grade 3 pitch above. The crux of the day was crossing the creek.



Tuesday, November 9, 2010

mark in south mineral

Went climbing in South Mineral Creek today on Direct North Face. The steeps were in excellent condition. Need stubby screws for belays unless you can reach the base of the next steep section.
The real crux is crossing the creek at the bottom, not frozen.

Monday, November 8, 2010

North San Juan Ice Climbing

Climbed the 2nd Gully Route in Eureka today. No snow anywhere in the area. Ice was thin but generally well formed, protectable, and fun to climb.
Cory leads up the first steep step.

The final headwall into the upper gully and walk off.
 1st Gully looked to be possible, as did the Highway to
Hell. Everything else was super bony. Went into South Mineral Creek as well. The Direct North Face Route had a bunch of ice but didn't quite look go to go. Snowblind is still forming. The campground couloirs had a bit pf ice and could probably get scratched up if you really get the jones. 
Hopefully this next system will give us another blast of ice generating conditions. 

We will be keeping a ice condition table this winter at 

Happy Winter Season, CC





Saturday, November 6, 2010

Ice is starting to form.

Thursday morning I went for a quick scout of how the ice is coming in. In Eureka, First and Second Gully looked in along with Road to Nowhere. In South Mineral Creek, Direct North Face was in the best condition with Campground Couloir close behind. The steep sections looked thin, but climbable, the top outs all appeared rather thin. Checking closer to Ouray on 361 the Ribbon and Birdbrain Boulevard both appear to be in better condition than they have been in a couple seasons. Hopefully I will get time to climb some of these in the next week and if so will try to keep updated.

Thursday, October 28, 2010

Skiing in the San juans

Went ski touring today on Red Mountain Pass. Pretty bony still but soft and very fun! CC

Ice is forming in the San Juans

There is a good start to the ice season forming up in the mountains. I was up at Skylight yesterday and the routes have a good bit of wet ice on them. There was a good start to the ribbon and BBB as well. We'll see if it makes it through the next week.

Saturday, October 23, 2010

Winter Season is Coming!

Well, the snow is starting to add up in the mountains. It won't be long till we can all start another great season of winter climbing and skiing. I'll get up and make the regular ice preview loop soon and report any ice I find!

In the meantime, keep training. 
I know of one hyper fool who already has like 10 days of drytooling in !

Think Cold Thoughts!
CC