Whore House Hoses

Popped over the pass to Eureka today to sample the superb multi-pitch terrain. We saw a party hiking up towards Stairway so elected to climb Whore House Hoses instead.

The climb is in very fat shape along with a nice packed trail right to the base. The first pitch is pretty well bucket steps, but veer right above the 'avocado leaves' and you'll find some superb WI5 ice. We climbed the left side of the final pitch and found perfect plastique conditions and nice steep climbing - probably WI5 minus.

Perhaps my favorite moderate in the range. Great ambiance and currently in excellent condition.

Also included is a photo of Stairway which looks blue and plastic.

Respectfully Submitted,

Grey Squirrel

Lower Ice Park Conditions: Lower Bridge to Shithouse

Made a walk through the lower park on Wednesday. The ice is super fat everywhere, and the classic mixed routes are climbing well also. Here is the photo tour to get a sense of conditions.

View up from the Lower Bridge, You can see the Brass Tacks area up to the Pick of the Vic. The lead routes that are hidden between are getting more and more consoldated with traffic.

The Boat Ramp and ice on both sides at the Lower Bridge is in great condition.

Lots of pros hanging around climbing mixed routes.Stone Free, TicTac, Dizzy, and the Scottish Gullies

TRing Dizzy with the Vision, one of Ouray's most popular old comp routes.The modern drytooling training route Le Sauccisson, many folks' "first drytooling route". It get infectious when you're watching all these pros right around you, and noone seems to be climbing the ice!Right now you can navigate the bottom all the way from the Lower Bridge to the Shithouse Wall, pretty nice access in the bottom this year. Here is the view of the Fingers as you approach from upstream.
The Thumb and Index all merged together, pretty sweet.The Ventana Buttress showing Icelandic Dream M7+ and Ventana Pillars. The next buttress down, Poodle Sex is not touching, although there are some cool alpine style gullies instead. Fresh descent ropes in the Fingers gully.

The Stump Wall. The Folsom Finger, not quite making it, but some great mixed routes in there instead.

The Park overall is in its best shapes in years.
Enjoy, CC

Ouray Area Conditions

Here is the latest on the Ouray conditions.

Skylight: A bit thin on some routes, but the standards are good to go.
Ribbon, BirdBrain, and Talisman are not in.

Horsetail/Bear Creek: Both are great right now. That rare opportunity to tag both in a short day.

Sun Splash and Solar Circus are holding ice, but look to be getting sun affected.

Engineer Climbs appear not in, although Abraxas could probably be climbed.

Stairway, Highway, and Whorehouse are fat city. Watch out for hidden ice dams on the rollovers. Its easy to punch through to some chilly water on stepping off some belays.

Ames is hanging tough, and super fun.

Bridalveil continues to be weird this year, only one reported ascent I know of.
Ingraham is reporting touching, not sure about Silverpick, would imagine its climbable though.

Santa Claus Pillar is reported in good condition.

That's all I know off the top off my head. Hope its useful!

1/6/10 CC

Ouray Ice Park

The Ouray Ice Park is fantastic shape, and ready for the Festival!

I spent the last couple days climbing in the park with some super nice folks from Texas. They picked it up really fast! Below is Parker smoking up Pick of the Vic early on his second day of ice climbing. Impressive! Good technique helps! Perfect Triangles.

We took a little lunch on the Upper Bridge and watched this gentleman crash his way up Root Canal, WI5 Funky! The conditions in the Lead area will make you work right now!

It was getting busy, so we headed down to the Ventana area where we found this sweet and steep WI5+ pillar formed up and feeling solid. I was pretty impressed to see these guys do as well as they did on it. I climbed it afterwards and found it to be continually off-balance and thought provoking. If you are registered for an Advanced Ice clinic at the fest, you might get coached up it as well. It is fantastic.

We've got a few more projects to finish before the fest, but its going to be good one. Lots of pros in town already getting a feel for our unique rock and tuning up for the comp. Good time to watch some serious climbing go down!

Cheers, CC

Stairway to Heaven

Stairway to Heaven 12/29/09

I had the pleasure of climbing Stairway with two young gentlemen from Berkeley on Tuesday. The route is as big as I have seen it for this time of year. There was every type of ice on the route, from blue steel to sloppy wet goo. The 3rd pitch was a total shower, but it looks like the flow is getting set on the far right so the the far left side of pillar may be drying. We got soaked, but it was a nice day so no big deal. All in all it is in superb shape. There was light snow falling all day, so if it kept up avi conditions could be different.

Cheers, CC.

Horsetail & Stairway

On Monday Cole & I did Horsetail. It was in primo condition. The middle line on the first pitch was really wet but the far right and left are reasonable. After the first bit the entire route was a gooey highway. We put in threads and rapped the route, back in town for lunch.

Today found us headed for Silverton. Stairway to Heaven is in superb condition. Many nice steep little steps, all sporting great ice (no funky layers). There appears to be a healthy amount of water supplying the route. This will certainly be one of those years it grows to an enourmous size. We opted for the walk off as it appeared to have been well travelled. I couldn't suggest this descent. The upper slopes were funky. All of the rap anchors were burried except the tree at the base of pitch three. Time to put in threads. It was snowing pretty hard when we left today, so things could change a bit for the near future. Enjoy the holidays!

Happy Trails,

Kevin

Ouray Ice Climbing and new Mammut Clothing!!!

Its been a pretty good early ice season this year, and with more snow in the mountains, routes should continue to grow. The Ouray Ice Park is scheduled to open a week early on Dec 12th. Conditions will be fantastic for the Festival starting Jan 8.. Come out and mingle with top climbers around the world, try gear, and get some good instruction.

I've been happily testing out some new pieces from Mammut this Autumn, and have come up with a few new favorites to add to the arsenal. As always the Tripod helmet is the most comfortable and easiest to use helmet on the market, period. Try one on at the fest, you will buy it and wear it everyday.

In the photo below, I'm starting up a somewhat funky first pitch of the classic Skylight climb. Campo Pants and Jasper Pull are a sweet combo for moderate protection and incredible movement.


This is on the Ames Ice Hose. There was a party on the ice already so we took some laps on the 5.9 rock pitch start. I'm sporting the Base Jump Pants (my everyday favorite for ice and alpine) and the new Extreme Baltoro Jacket. This jacket is great. Superb protection from dripping ice and howling wind, and stretches and climbs perfectly. Excellent for backcountry ice climbing and alpinism.


And finally the Direct North Face in South Mineral, another early season mandatory tune up climb. It was a gorgeous day so I went with the venerable Champ pants and Verglas Jacket.


Thanks to Mammut for all the sweet gear! All the SJMG guides are super-psyched on their uniforms this year. We went with the Extreme Baltoro and Stratus Flash pieces this year and they are excellent. Thanks! Thanks! Thanks!

Respectfully Submitted,
Clint Cook
San Juan Mountain Guides
Ouray, CO