Wednesday, December 9, 2009


Today a bunch of local climbers spent the morning in the park shoveling snow from lower angle spots so the Ice Farmers can continue taking advantage of the cold temps. We received a relatively small amount of snow in town with this last storm. So the ice making continues as we approach opening day in the park, this Saturday. The park is looking really great. These could be the best conditions we've seen for an opening weekend in several years. Kudos to Mike and his crew for making it happen.
Thanks again to the shoveling crew this morning;
Mike M. - OIPI Board member
Alan C. - Timber Ridge & Antlers Motels
Chachi, Clint, and Kevin - SJMG

Tuesday, December 8, 2009

Horsetail Falls




Squeezed in a trip up Horsetail Falls yesterday just prior to the big dump of snow. It had been shaping up nicely this fall and looked to be in superb condition. The river crossing was bomber with around an 8-12 inch ice bridge. Some funky rock steps in the narrows prior to gaining the ice climb proper - the new snow will help that section.

The climb was the proverbial Blue Goo highway! Single-swing thunker goo all the way to the top.

The first pitch (crux) had its typical wetness, perhaps more than usual. The shower was unavoidable for a few moves. On one high stick I had the water running down the shaft of the tool, through my glove and down my arm into my arm pit. Sweet! That combined with a dislodged chunk nailing me in the chin and I knew I was ice climbing again. Good to have winter back.

Respectfully submitted,

Grey Squirrel

Sunday, December 6, 2009

The Snow is here

I'm here in Silverton enjoing the snow fall.
We had about 5 inches of new snow overnight
All the ice routes are on very good condition
and the temps are great and looking forward to do some turns.
Come and visit the San Juans,.
Hasta pronto
Andres

Friday, December 4, 2009

Ames Ice Hose



On Thursday I climbed the Ames Ice Hose with a couple old friends. Conditions are great, ice bottom to top. The second pitch is sporting it's two normal little cruxy sections but very reasonable. A .75 Camalot is nice to protect the upper crux section but not necessary. Not sure if the temps hit double digits at all that day, a most enjoyable outing none the less. Headed up the Camp Bird road today. I'll post some cool pics later today when my camera will cooperate with the computer. Apparently, they are not talking this morning? Happy Trails! KAK





Tuesday, December 1, 2009

More conditions from South Mineral

Thought that must have been you Kevin!

We (Gary and I) were over on Campground and Snowblind today. Both are in great shape and set-up to rappel. Snowblind is definitely a bit harder right now and getting thin around the chockstone. Sundance looked great from the road, but didn't have time to get on it today.

Great ice climbing right now!!


Visited South Mineral this morning with Sandy. The DNF was great, super fat and pretty dry. This area is seeing ton of traffic, for great reason!!! Get out and enjoy it. Cheers, KAK




Sunday, November 29, 2009

Went to Eureka Thursday morning and soloed Stairway. The only thin spots were the first roll in the middle of pitch one, but it would have taken an ice screw a few feet earlier and then could walk flat footed within two moves. Also the top of pitch four was thin as always as it transitions into the snow.
While I was there I talked to a party who had just done second gully and they said it was great.
Road to Nowhere and Whorehouse Hoses also looked good from the road. I could see that the top of Hosers' Highway looked excellent but couldn't see the mixed pitch, hope to rememdy that this week.

Friday soloed Campground Couloir, Snowblind, and DNF in South Mineral. All were in better than average condition. I only climbed two small wet steps, the rest were dry and fat. All routes are clearly seeing regular traffic.