I had a great week in Zermatt with Paul from New York. We started with a shake-down day on the Riffelhorn just to see where he was at. I hadn't climbed with Paul before, and was pleasantly surprised with both his skill level and good humor. We took a quick run up the Skyline route and down the normal route to practice some short-roping techniques and he did very well. The photo below is on our first summit of the day, very picturesque with the main event in the background.After the Skyline, we headed around to the South Face and climbed the nine (short) pitches of the Thermoteregg Couloir Route (French 4c). It was a beautiful day and the climbing was super-fun. Paul cruised all the pitches in approach shoes, and we had the popular climbing area all to ourselves. You can see him below climbing the classic dihedral first done in the 1940's!
Day's 2 and 3 were some fine rain in the valley, with high winds up high. After waiting, unsuccessfully, for the Kleine Matterhorn tram to open for an attempt on Pollux we opted to take in the Gorner Gorge Adventure instead. The next day the lift was open, but the weather was only good enough for tea in the buffet at 3800 meters with the rest of the local guides. Day 4 dawned clear, and we went up to climb the classic Half-Traverse of the Breithorn. We tagged along behind local guide Sam Anthamatten, who was kind enough to chop beautiful steps up the hard snow approach. Paul loved the climb, and he was looking in fine shape to give the Matterhorn a go. The photo below is leading up the top of the third rock step.
On July 9th we went up to the Hornlihutte, scoped the first hour of the route, and had a delicious pork chop and mashed potato dinner. The local guides were not yet guiding the route due to the recent snows covering much of the route. This definitely ramps up the difficulty of climbing the Matterhorn, and there were a number of recreational parties still trickling in at 1am as we slumbered in our bunks!

We awoke at 3:30am to still skies and warm temperatures. After a couple cups of coffee we were first out the door, followed closely by a couple friendly brits we had shared the dinner table with the night before. Conditions made it a little slower than usual, but we made it to the top in good form, the first team for the day. The first photo shows me leading up the Lower Moseley Slab with the Solvay hut at the top.
This photo is from the summit of the Matterhorn, where Paul proudly displays his local gym's t-shirt. It was absolutely perfect on top!
We made good time back down through softening snow, and had 5 minutes to spare on the last lift back to Zermatt!
Cheers! Clint

fun in the summer snow

I was in Yankee Boy for a day of snow school with David today. Condidtions are still great for spring alpine snow and mixed climbing in the San Juan's. The SW ridge of Sneffel's has great snow leading to the ridge. The north facing routes on Gilpin still look to be amazing. Teakettle is hanging in there as well. This is certainly proving to be a most amazing spring alpine season.

Visited the Black Canyon on Sat. Part of our group climbed Maiden Voyage & the other part did Leisure Climb. What a spectacular place to climb!

Other outings this past week included a trip up the Light Line just south of Ouray. This 1200 foot alpine rock route provides such an impressive view of the valley from Ironton all the way to Ouray.

Happy Trails,
Kevin

Zermatt Climbing

I just wrapped up a fun 4 days with Mark from McCook, Nebraska. He's got one of those great attitudes that just makes it fun to be with. Even if things don't go quite as planned! After missing his first flight to Geneva, Mark made it to Switzerland, but his bags didn't. After collecting them and making his way to Zermatt we took in the unique Gorner Gorge Adventure. This is a super fun course of ladders, zip-lines, and tarzan swings through the scenic Gorner river gorge. It would be perfect for the Ouray Ice Park in summer. OCRA are you listening!
The next day we took the trams up to Kleine Matterhorn, traversed the Breithorn Plateau and climbed the classic Southwest Ridge of Pollux. This is a great mixed ridge route and excellent training for the Matterhorn. As you crest the main rock difficulties you are greeted by one of the many Madonnas guarding over the Alps.The next day was our scheduled day to head to the Hornlihutte in prep for the Matterhorn. The forecast wasn't stellar, but we kept our fingers crossed and hoped it wouldn't be too bad. Unfortunately it was. Just as we stepped in the hut, the skies opened and dumped a few inches of hail and snow on the Matterhorn. Knowing that the next day's conditions would not be too good for attempting the 'horn we opted to cut our losses and head back to Zermatt.

On our last day we climbed the Breithorn, and got some good photos for Mark's local newspaper travel section.
Before heading back down the trams to Zermatt, we stepped into the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, where a frozen Buddha statue greeted us!

With a bit of daylight left we decided to have one more adventure on the Klettersteig Schweifine above Zermatt. This is a true via ferratta course with plenty of exposure and lots of fun!Berg Heil! CC

Gilpin Peak North Face Couloir

Climbed the North Face Couloir again today with a gentleman from California. Bill and I have done a lot of routes together and it was great to get to show him one of the lesser known San Juan gems.We walked up the Wright's Lake trail until below Gilpin, from there it is a quick climb up good snow and ice. Depending on which exit you choose, it can be as steep as 70 degrees with bits of water ice and mixed climbing. Last week we did the right gully finish, today we did the far left. Both were fun, left was more mixed. The center looks to have the largest cornice still hanging over it.
It should be good for another week or so, but go early. It catches the first sun of the range, and the descent was already sloppy at 0900. Overall it seems quiet in the Sneffels Range this year.Have Fun! CC

Dallas Peak South Face Couloir

Dallas Peak Climb Sunday June 22, 2008Kevin and I took four guys over to climb the South Face Couloir on Dallas Peak on Sunday.
This seldom climbed couloir offers a direct line straight up to the summit block. It involved a 2.5 hour hike, a couple thousand feet of snow, ice, and rock up to M3, and the steep final summit block. All the lads did well, and were psyched on having completed one of the more technical alpine routes of their careers.

I also guided the North Face Couloir on Gilpin, and it too is in good condition. The south facing couloirs should have another week of good snow and ice, and the north facing aspects 3 weeks or so.

Cheers, CC

Teakettle South Couloir Climb

I climbed the beautiful South Couloir on Teakettle today with some guys from the Front Range. It was in great condition and we made good time. We followed the direct line up through all the narrow sections to the small summit block. It is mainly nice neve with a bit of hard ice in spots right now.

I've also been up Dallas Peak and Gilpin Peak by their steep couloir routes, and they are equally fantastic right now. Get it while you can.

Cheers, CC

Snake Couloir and Yankee Boy conditions

Hello! I went up to climb the Snake Couloir on Sneffels this past weekend with a gentleman from New Mexico. He had done a couple good snow routes already this year, and was ready to sample one of the San Juan's finest.

Photo: North Face of Gilpin Peak May 31, 08

There is still a ton of snow up high, and climbing conditions were more like early May than June. We snowshoed in from the toilet to Lavender Col, passing a number of skiers and climbers enjoying the bluebird day. We set a comfortable camp on the snow, and took in the fantastic lenticular clouds ripping by in all directions.

Photo: Looking East to Kismet, Cirque, and Teakettle.Upper Lavender Col

We descended the north side of Lavender at 0500 and wrapped around the base of the North Face around 12,000ft. A few hundred flat foots, frontpoints, and ax plunges later we stood on the exposed snow arete poised below the summit block.

Photos: On the North Face.
Keith waited on the ledge while I led up the sweet, easy mixed finish. A quick belay and we both shared in the breezy summit solitude.
We cruised back down the normal route to camp, glissaded into Yankee Boy Basin, and snowshoed back to the truck.
Snow conditions are great for skiing or climbing right now. It has been an adequate freeze most nights. Good corn is easy to find most days, and steep couloirs offer the best access of the season to the area's coolest peaks. Sneffels, Teakettle, Potosi, Gilpin, Dallas, Mt Wilson, and El Diente all have excellent northern couloirs of different difficulties. Should be a couple more weeks of excellent skiing. Alpine climbing conditions should only improve thru June.

Onwards and Upwards! CC