General Ouray Conditions

I had a request for an overview of the major areas. Here goes!

Telluride: No reports, but I think the ice hose is still difficult, Bridalveil is fine I'm sure.

Silverton: Whorehouse is in good shape, still lots of snow on Stairway. It will take awhile before that is good to go. The OB wall is still housing many fine routes awaiting climbs, as are the buttresses on the north side of the valley heading into Eureka. I would imagine the gullies are pretty filled in and dangerous.

OURAY:

Dexter Creek Slabs: In good shape, no track up there as of now.

Cascade Falls: Has held together well. It was climbed yesterday, and was funky as usual. With interesting leaf climbing thru the middle section.

Camp Bird Road: Skylight climbs are FAT. Ribbon has some ice on it up high, and lots of snow the whole way. It could be climbed, but the spindrift and avalanches have not subsided much. BBB looks pretty dry. The Talisman looks about the same as it has, no reports of anyone climbing it yet.

Horsetail Falls: Some ice on it, although mainly a snow wallow. Haven't seen any tracks all year.

Bear Creek: These climbs are still there, but do not look as good as they did a week or so ago.

Engineer Pass Climbs: All in good shape. Mixed emotions, Blue Condition, Kennedy's, Gravity's, Gravitational Pull, Gravity's Test, and Over the Rainbow are all excellent routes for the grades.

Ouray Ice Park: The park is looking good. The south end is regrowing quickly, and everything else is in excellent conditions. There are lots of stiff pillars in the lead area now, a couple new bolted sport routes near Tic-Tac, and the best environment for learning to ice climb in the world.

Mixed Emotions

Alain sent me these photos from their climb of Mixed Emotions yesterday. Looks spicy! Here are Alain's comments.

"great route - 3 x 35 meter pitches!! thin conditions.
Pro is soso - 2 x 70meter ropes would be Ideal, we rapped of the tree on last pitch, to top of first in cave ( 60 meter rope just makes it!!!) we had one 70 and one 60m and made it
no anchor was found on top.
We rapped off a miners pin at the cave to the ground. (left a yellow cord and binner)
Rack - KB's - Stubbies / Screws - wires - Cams (.2 to #2 camelots)
1st pitch is a little dicy
2nd pitch even dicier
3rd pitch thin ice ( not as easy as it looks!!) sketchy topout"

Ouray Ice Park

Climbed today at South Park with the Hirsch family.  

We had a wonderful time and ice conditions were great.  Many routes have healed up well after a lot of climbers during the Ice Festival.  Today was a busy day in the Park, but there are lots of climbs with great ice.   

Kellan, the 16yr old rock/ice star was tearing it up his second day ever on ice.  He set the bar high for his dad Art, mom Patty and lil' bro Zach to follow.  We climbed till our arms were pumped silly, then more without tools, getting creative with hands on rock and ice!  

Temps started out cold in the morning, but it was a beautiful San Juan day - with smiles all around.

Mixed Emotions

Just got down from the pass. Looks like Jay, Calixte, and Alain just keep cranking it out! Jay was almost done with Mixed Emotions when I drove past. Way to go! Those 3 are pretty inspiring. Hopefully this cold weather sticks around, so some of us mortals can try to follow their lead. The other engineer climbs look to be in good shape as well.

A party also climbed Whorehouse today, and reported good conditions. Lots of snow though, not sure if anyone has ventured to Stairway.

Gravity's Test First Ascent

I just had a nice chat with Jay Smith, he gave me the low-down on the pillars up past Gravity's. He FA'd the left years back, and named it Gravitational Pull. It is FUN.

Apparently, the right just recently fell to visiting Canadians Calixte LeBlanc and Alain Denis. They named it Gravity's Test (WI6+). Few will forget their 2-wheel tour thru Ouray this winter. Cheers to you two!

I can say from experience both are full value.

Photos: 1-4 Courtesy of Alain Denis. Check out their trip at

http://www.mindseyefoto.com/
Around the World on 2 Wheels
http://www.calalmission.blogspot.com/
The last two are myself on the 17th, taken by the ever-patient Kevin Koprek.

Jan 17 conditions

Things have been cold the last week, and many climbs are big and fat. 

There are big piles of debris at the bottom of most Skylight climbs, but the climbing is superb on all the routes. I did skylight, slippery, and the dumpster with guests today, and they were stoked on conditions. 

Yesterday I went up and had a go with the right Over the Rainbow pillar. The Canadian Hells Angels had done it I know, and maybe another party. They called it Grade 6. I got really pumped, but the climbing is excellent. Despite the initial look of it, the left pillar is significantly easier. The far right ramp route is in fine shape as well for the grade 3 leader. Be wary of changing snow conditions if you head up there next week. 

Kennedy's and Blue Conditions look good still, and Abraxas looked doable if a bit sporty. Apparently Mixed Emotions has remained a bit wet, and has not yet been climbed.

All for now, I will try to get Rainbow photos up soon.

January Ice Conditions

Sorry for the delay in posting, the ice fest is always crazy. Here is the quick low-down.

Skylight climb are great. Engineer climbs are hanging in, anyone climb Mixed Emotions yet? Over the Rainbow pillars have been getting attention. I have seen folks on the right one, but not the proud left pillar. Bear creek routes look good for the motivated, Horsetail would be a wallow.

No word on anyone climbing in silverton, although I would imagine the outward bound wall is still looking good. Avi conditions have been funky, although things are looking better.

Skied on the pass this morning, great snow. Went to the park afterwards. Things are healing fast after the fest. Some parts of the park are still hardly touched, ie Brass Tacks and most of the lead area.