Dolomites 2010: Challenge, Adventure, and History.

Artist's rendition of the famed Tofana di Rozes. This beautiful limestone peak has seen many versions of human struggle. A key strategic point during WWI, the Tofana has also been the home to a history of rock climbing development in Italy. It has classic routes from the early 1900's as well as modern desperate free climbs.

Just returned home from the Dolomite Mountains of Northern Italy. It seems like yesterday I dreamed of being able to guide in such a beautiful and historic range. I've led a bunch of trips there now and they all rank super high on my list of enjoyment.

Bill and I have climbed a lot together over the years, and I was psyched to get to show him what are some of my favorite routes anywhere on the planet. Here is our hit list.

Torri di Falzarego

Cinque Torri: Via Miriam on Torre Grande Cima Sud, and Via Olga on Cima Ovest

Tofana di Rozes: Primo Spigolo

Pomgagnon: Punta Fiames - Spigolo Jori

Tofana di Rozes: Pilastro di Ghedina

Sasso di Stria

Crepe du Oucere Basso

The classic training ground of Cinque Torri, complete with hot tub at the hut.

On top of Torre Grande di Falzarego after completing the awesome south arete traverse of both towers. The Lagazuoi is in the background.

12 pitches up the Spigolo Jori.

Bill grins after cruising the stout UIAA V+ crux on this long classic route.

Just another 2000 foot limestone wall. Can't remember the name, looks like a mini Eiger northwall.

Monte Piau.

Thanks Bill. See you next year! 

Ciao, Clint

Valais Alps 8-Day: Matterhorn, Breithorn, Allalinhorn, Jagihorn, Riffelhorn, and more!

Just returned home from another great trip to the Valais Alps of southern Switzerland. This area is steeped in a long history of alpine sport and a perfect place to enjoy an adventurous mountain holiday!

View of the Matterhorn from our deck on the first day we arrived in Zermatt. A little snowy!

 Jon and Lars came from Colorado for 8 days of climbing on the ridges, crags, and glaciers surrounding Zermatt and Saas Fee. With our eye on the Matterhorn, we starting training and acclimatizing. Our first day we climbed the classic Half-Traverse of the Breithorn.

North Face of the Breithorn. The 1/2 Traverse starts in the saddle on the left, then climbs the three rock steps to the snow arete finish.

The men performed well and we were quickly on top and back to the Klein Matterhorn tram for a ride back down to town.

Past the rock towers with the final snow ridges ahead.

Lars and Jon on the summit with Matterhorn and Dent Blanche in the back.

Day 2: Rock Skills Training on the Riffelhorn!
Beautiful views, good rock, and lots of different routes to work on.

Station Rotenboden: Depart Gornergrat train for Riffelhorn. Our first training route of the day was Skyline 4a on the left edge of the formation.

Route #2 for the day, Thermometer - Egg 5c (french grades!)

Pretty steep for mountain boots on rock, but lots of handholds.

Summit of the Riffelhorn.

View of the Weisshorn from Riffelhorn.

Back to our humble hillside abode in Zermatt. The Matterhorn is getting drier!

Angel Creek Canyoning

Made a nice trip down Angel Creek Canyon this week. Water levels are perfect for exploring the alpine canyons around Ouray. Angel is an idyllic little canyon perfect for the novice canyoneer looking for a quick escape into the canyon reality! Here are some pics of Kevin and I.

Great Article in the Denver Post!

http://www.denverpost.com/recommended/ci_15445181

Canyoning Season!

The water flows in most of the area canyons are starting to taper off. We took a trip down Portland Creek this last week, and it was in very fun condition.

Mooses Tooth 2010

Had a great trip with Fabio from Italy the first week of May. we flew into the Root Canal glacier with high hopes of tagging a few classic routes. Ham and Eggs was in great shape, but Shaken and others weren't quite that well formed. There were a number of teams in line to climb, but we knew we would be pretty quick, so we got up at 2:30 on our third day and headed to the base.

Fabio is a super solid alpinist with a number of demanding routes in the Alps under his belt. Alaska is a bit of a different ball game, but he quickly made the adjustments and was firing like a veteran in no time.

I started us out on the first 3 pitched to set the tempo, and then turned over the lead to Fabio. He ran up the lower snow pitches and then proceeded to fire out the crux ice lead in fine style.


In no time at all we were at the col, and then the summit. We tracked a fine line up the summit ridge, and were basking in the glow of success in eight hours from our departure. 20 or so rappels later we were sunbathing on the glacier and drinking beer.

We had on more fine day of weather, which we used to go up the Incisor and have a closer look at Shaken. It didn't look that great, but we figure we would investigate anyway. But the weather had other ideas. We got a couple feet of snow the next 2 days. I was glad Fabio got the Full Alaska Adventure. as the clouds cleared we stomped out a runway for the TAT Otter, made the call, and flew out to Talkeetna.
It was an excellent trip with great company! Grazie Fabio!

Cheers, CC

Ice Park - End of Season

Today is Closing Day for the ice park, though the ice itself still looks pretty good overall! The bottom is getting pretty tricky to move around in though. Went up to see if anything was coming in on the Ribbon, no change so far, still dry. But the Hangover Helper pillar is just touching and may continue to fatten into a freestanding climbable WI6+ pillar. Its looks a lot like Pilsner Pillar wild!

Big thanks to everyone who made this such a great ice season for SJMG. Conditions were great most of the year, and I had lots of good memories from days out with all my guests. I'm off to Mexico for a couple weeks to get a little summer blast before I go to Alaska for a couple trips. I'll let everyone know how they go.

Cheers, CC