Stairway to Heaven

Stairway to Heaven 12/29/09

I had the pleasure of climbing Stairway with two young gentlemen from Berkeley on Tuesday. The route is as big as I have seen it for this time of year. There was every type of ice on the route, from blue steel to sloppy wet goo. The 3rd pitch was a total shower, but it looks like the flow is getting set on the far right so the the far left side of pillar may be drying. We got soaked, but it was a nice day so no big deal. All in all it is in superb shape. There was light snow falling all day, so if it kept up avi conditions could be different.

Cheers, CC.

Horsetail & Stairway

On Monday Cole & I did Horsetail. It was in primo condition. The middle line on the first pitch was really wet but the far right and left are reasonable. After the first bit the entire route was a gooey highway. We put in threads and rapped the route, back in town for lunch.

Today found us headed for Silverton. Stairway to Heaven is in superb condition. Many nice steep little steps, all sporting great ice (no funky layers). There appears to be a healthy amount of water supplying the route. This will certainly be one of those years it grows to an enourmous size. We opted for the walk off as it appeared to have been well travelled. I couldn't suggest this descent. The upper slopes were funky. All of the rap anchors were burried except the tree at the base of pitch three. Time to put in threads. It was snowing pretty hard when we left today, so things could change a bit for the near future. Enjoy the holidays!

Happy Trails,

Kevin

Ouray Ice Climbing and new Mammut Clothing!!!

Its been a pretty good early ice season this year, and with more snow in the mountains, routes should continue to grow. The Ouray Ice Park is scheduled to open a week early on Dec 12th. Conditions will be fantastic for the Festival starting Jan 8.. Come out and mingle with top climbers around the world, try gear, and get some good instruction.

I've been happily testing out some new pieces from Mammut this Autumn, and have come up with a few new favorites to add to the arsenal. As always the Tripod helmet is the most comfortable and easiest to use helmet on the market, period. Try one on at the fest, you will buy it and wear it everyday.

In the photo below, I'm starting up a somewhat funky first pitch of the classic Skylight climb. Campo Pants and Jasper Pull are a sweet combo for moderate protection and incredible movement.


This is on the Ames Ice Hose. There was a party on the ice already so we took some laps on the 5.9 rock pitch start. I'm sporting the Base Jump Pants (my everyday favorite for ice and alpine) and the new Extreme Baltoro Jacket. This jacket is great. Superb protection from dripping ice and howling wind, and stretches and climbs perfectly. Excellent for backcountry ice climbing and alpinism.


And finally the Direct North Face in South Mineral, another early season mandatory tune up climb. It was a gorgeous day so I went with the venerable Champ pants and Verglas Jacket.


Thanks to Mammut for all the sweet gear! All the SJMG guides are super-psyched on their uniforms this year. We went with the Extreme Baltoro and Stratus Flash pieces this year and they are excellent. Thanks! Thanks! Thanks!

Respectfully Submitted,
Clint Cook
San Juan Mountain Guides
Ouray, CO

Ouray Ice Park 2009 - Open Soon!!!

I walked through the park today scouting for our Mountain Rescue training tomorrow. Things really look great. The river is currently low allowing good access to all areas. I was able to move around in the gorge quite easily. The following pictures were taken this afternoon in the park. It looks like climbers visiting on opening day, this Saturday, will be treated to some fine climbing. Please enjoy the pics. See you all Saturday!!
Happy Trails,
KAK






Stump Wall

















Below the Lower Bridge

School Room

New Funtier

South Park

Today a bunch of local climbers spent the morning in the park shoveling snow from lower angle spots so the Ice Farmers can continue taking advantage of the cold temps. We received a relatively small amount of snow in town with this last storm. So the ice making continues as we approach opening day in the park, this Saturday. The park is looking really great. These could be the best conditions we've seen for an opening weekend in several years. Kudos to Mike and his crew for making it happen.

Thanks again to the shoveling crew this morning;

Mike M. - OIPI Board member

Alan C. - Timber Ridge & Antlers Motels

Chachi, Clint, and Kevin - SJMG

Horsetail Falls

Squeezed in a trip up Horsetail Falls yesterday just prior to the big dump of snow. It had been shaping up nicely this fall and looked to be in superb condition. The river crossing was bomber with around an 8-12 inch ice bridge. Some funky rock steps in the narrows prior to gaining the ice climb proper - the new snow will help that section.

The climb was the proverbial Blue Goo highway! Single-swing thunker goo all the way to the top.

The first pitch (crux) had its typical wetness, perhaps more than usual. The shower was unavoidable for a few moves. On one high stick I had the water running down the shaft of the tool, through my glove and down my arm into my arm pit. Sweet! That combined with a dislodged chunk nailing me in the chin and I knew I was ice climbing again. Good to have winter back.

Respectfully submitted,

Grey Squirrel

The Snow is here

I'm here in Silverton enjoing the snow fall.
We had about 5 inches of new snow overnight
All the ice routes are on very good condition
and the temps are great and looking forward to do some turns.
Come and visit the San Juans,.
Hasta pronto
Andres

Ames Ice Hose

On Thursday I climbed the Ames Ice Hose with a couple old friends. Conditions are great, ice bottom to top. The second pitch is sporting it's two normal little cruxy sections but very reasonable. A .75 Camalot is nice to protect the upper crux section but not necessary. Not sure if the temps hit double digits at all that day, a most enjoyable outing none the less. Headed up the Camp Bird road today. I'll post some cool pics later today when my camera will cooperate with the computer. Apparently, they are not talking this morning? Happy Trails! KAK

More conditions from South Mineral

Thought that must have been you Kevin!

We (Gary and I) were over on Campground and Snowblind today. Both are in great shape and set-up to rappel. Snowblind is definitely a bit harder right now and getting thin around the chockstone. Sundance looked great from the road, but didn't have time to get on it today.

Great ice climbing right now!!

Visited South Mineral this morning with Sandy. The DNF was great, super fat and pretty dry. This area is seeing ton of traffic, for great reason!!! Get out and enjoy it. Cheers, KAK