Ouray Ice Climbing

Toledo, OH to Ouray, CO

2012-01-09T18:21:00.000-07:00

It seems like a long way to go to climb frozen waterfalls, but judging by the grins on these guys faces, it was well worth it. I got to spend 2 days climbing with Brian and Walt from Toledo. Both of them had done some ice climbing before and Brian recently climbed Everest and completed his seventh summit. Both wanted to improve their climbing skills and came to Ouray to do it.

We spent the first day in the Ice Park working on their technique in the Scottish Gullies and South Park and the School Room. Both improved their foot work enormously and climbed some steep lines! The second day we enjoyed the backcountry gem Dexter Creek Slabs. At the base we sampled the delicious smoked cheddar cheese and sausage that Walt shared with the team.

Thanks for a great day gentlemen! I hope to see you back for other classic like Whorehouse Hoses, Stairway, or 2nd Gulley.

Making Ice Climbing Safer

2012-01-05T09:57:00.001-07:00

Here at San Juan Mountain Guides we are all about ice climbing in the winter. However, part of what makes us different is our emphasis on education. I like to take part of my days out with folks to explain how the safety systems we use in ice climbing work. For those interested, we talk about placing your own protection, building anchors and leading ice climbs.

The internet puts a great deal of information about ice climbing at our finger tips, if you know where to look. Understanding the forces involved and the dynamics of the medium and equipment helps me climb safer. Together with a day or two of instruction this collection of links and articles will surely help you climb safer, enjoy!

Placing Ice Screws

Petzl Ice Anchors Testing

Anchor testing article

Fall on Ice with Will Gadd’s analysis

Screamers or not?

Dispatches from the Ouray Ice Park

2011-12-30T14:22:00.003-07:00

Swingin'!

The warm weather has made for "hero" ice conditions in the ice park. The softened, but not overly melting ice makes of endless one-swing-stick-bliss! If you were ever thinking of getting on a particularly hard ice climbing now is the time while the ice is as user friendly as ever.

Kickin'!

I have had the pleasure of exploring ice technique with a number of wonderful folks from all over the country over the last few days. We have hung out in the Scottish Gullies, The School Room, and South Park going through the San Juan Mountain Guides' Ice Curriculum.

Relaxin'!

We start with no tools on low angle ice to learn to trust the crampons and to develop solid foot work and stability. Next we incorporate one tool. Here we learn to swing and where the tool goes relative to the rest of our body position. Last, we put all the pieces together with both tools and swing and kick our way with perfect form up the ice until our forearms turn to jelly!

Kids Ice Climbing College

2011-12-27T15:03:00.002-07:00

Future San Juan Mountain Guide?

Every year at San Juan Mountain Guides we run a number of free kids climbing clinics at the Ice Park. It is pretty remarkable to be able to offer young kids the chance to try out a sport once reserved only for adults. We are the only people in the world I know of who have a fleet of specially modified ice tools for kids to try ice climbing.

Guides helping future ice masters get roped up and ready to go!

The guides of SJMG, people with experience climbing ice all over the country and the world, coach kids up the ice, teaching them to balance on their crampons while they swing into the ice. It is fun watching kids problem solve their way to the tops of the climbs and gratifying to see their smiles when they notice the view from the top.

World famous mountaineers to be take their first steps.

Swingin' and kickin' to the top!

These future ice masters rocked the ice park yesterday. Kids clinics are for kids 8-17 and are totally free. All of the clinics are at the upper bridge at the Ouray Ice Park. Here are the 2012 dates:

Sat, Jan 7, 10a-3p

Sun, Jan 8, 10a-2p

Sun, Feb12, 12p-4p

Click here for details. See you there!

Stairway to Heaven

2011-12-22T10:07:00.002-07:00

I had a wonderful day out in Eureka yesterday with Liba. It was our second day out in the backcountry working on leading skills. Liba did a GREAT job leading the second pitch and then taking us to the top. Stairway is in pretty good shape and the approach about as easy as it gets - although it started snowing as we left. Thanks for a fantastic day Liba.

Ouray Ice Park Time!

2011-12-20T17:03:00.002-07:00

We all eagerly awaited like children in front of the case at the local chocolate shop Mouse's Chocolates as we watched the ice park grow faster and faster as the weather got cold. Our anticipation built with the ice in the park until finally... it opened.

I spent two days climbing in the Ouray Ice Park with Russell form CO. He had never tried ice climbing before but wanted to expand his outdoor recreation repertoire. During our time together we built Russell's foundation on low angle ice. He quickly grasped the technique and moved on to steeper climbing.

It was really fun getting to hang in the ice park with Russell and revisit some of my favorite climbs in the park. It was a treat to get to work on the finer points of kicking and swinging and balancing our way up any one of over 200 freshly frozen ice climbs . Thanks for a great day Russell.

Ouray Ice: Dexter Slabs

2011-12-13T09:24:00.002-07:00

Dexter Slabs, 4 pitches

Mt. Ridgway

While Ouray is known for the Ouray Ice Park set to open next weekend, there is also a great deal of backcountry ice climbs that make for nice beginner and intermediate excursions outside the park. I climbed one of these, Dexter Slabs, with my roommates yesterday. It was Whitney's first multi-pitch ice climb and she did great! This climb is a great first tall climb with straightforward climbing, steep sections, rappelling off v-threads, and of course, great views. All in all it is certainly a full value outing and I can't wait to show more folks this great climb.

Good times high above the Uncompahgre River Valley

For people thinking about a trip to the San Juans who really want to check out the ice I often recommend a 2-4 day itinerary. Day 1 in the park learning the basics, day 2 on a beginner multi pitch climb like Dexter Slabs. Usually we take days 3 and 4 to get on some bigger, harder climbs or for a day of skiing! We look forward to seeing you soon.

BIRD BRAIN BOULEVARD

2011-12-12T11:19:00.002-07:00

I had a great day climbing Bird Brain.

I had the opportunity to climb it with my girl friend Annie it was her first time climbing the route and she had a blast!!!!!!

The route it is in great condition. It is more ice on the lower than the upper part of the route, making some upper pitches little more interesting that other years.

It has been a big time clean up on the route in terms of old manky pins and old anchors, so plan on bringing little more gear for anchors.

Ha!!! the pillar on the second pitch it is pretty awesome. PLEASE be gentle with it !!!!

Hands down it is my favorite route in the San Juan's.

In the next couple of days I will be heading to the Talisman. I have been looking at it for the past couple of weeks and I think it is looking like potentially could go. Little on the LUNATIC side of climbing but it will go. Let you guys know how it is hopefully soon.

Other than that this season is awesome so far so come and climb and keep it SAFE !!!!

Best Regards

Andres

Ouray Ice: The Ribbon

2011-12-08T17:33:00.001-07:00

Matt and I were back at it today checking out the Ouray ice conditions and they are great. For one, with the cold temps the ice park looks bigger every day and should be open before you know it. The whole Skylight area is very much in right now. The new snow and the warm days have been refreshing the climbs that were getting a bit hacked out. It should look like new up there in time for the weekend.

Today however, Matt and I got on The Ribbon. This is the striking line you can see from the Camp Bird parking area. The first pitch was a bit spicy. While the tool sticks were good, the protection was a bit tricky due to the aerated and thin ice with no real pro in the easier climbing low down. The second and Third pitches are in great shape however and are totally worth the run out on the first one.

Many people seem to miss the bolted anchors on this route. There is one at the top of the snow ramp that is sometimes a first pitch on the right. The pitch 1 anchors are just past the steep part on the left. The anchors at the top of pitch 2 are on the right twenty or so feet below the second steep part. The final pitch ends at some bolts on the right you should not have to use the manky pin anchor above the good bolt one. Rap the route with 2 60m raps and grab a beer and burger!

Ouray Backcountry Ice

2011-12-06T16:33:00.001-07:00

Visiting guide Matt H. and I climbed Horsetail Falls today. The creek crossing was a bit tricky. But with the recent cold temps there was ample ice to get across. With so little snow it got a bit scrappy getting up the cleft that leads to the climb. The climb itself is in good shape, though it is still early season ice. Which is to say, there is plenty of ice to climb but it has lots of cauliflower and candles still.

That first pitch is definitely the "money pitch" of the climb but the upper pitches are quite fun as well. Matt and I romped our way to the top and walked off. The day's warming made for a tricky creek crossing on the way out but we managed with no soaked feet. We were able to take a look across at Bear Creek Falls which appears to need much more cold weather to form.

Skiing Red Mountain Pass

2011-11-29T14:00:00.000-07:00

Had a lovely day yesterday with Kathy H out on Red Mountain Pass. Kathy is working to hone her backcountry skiing skills so we headed out on the slopes of McMillon and Ohio Peaks. With very pleasant temperatures and soft faceted snow in at and below treeline we had a blast. Couldn't ask for nicer weather in the mountains - just a skiff of wind and sunny warmth. We are forecast to get a bit of snow over the next few days and into the weekend, let's hope it happens. Think today and tomorrow will be the last of the warm days for a bit - big cold front dropping in from Canada... Thanks for a great day in the mountains Kathy!

Skylight Area Climbing

2011-11-28T07:26:00.000-07:00

Went up to Skylight yesterday (11/27) for a fun introductory half day with Scott and Leah from Cheyenne. they were in Telluride on a short getaway and popped over for some frozen fun of a different nature. Conditions have melted-out a bit up at the skylight with the recent warm weather, but there was still plenty for us to work on.

Overall it was a beautiful morning, and these guys took right to it. General conditions are pretty lean up there, though it looks like everything would go with a cool head and soft hand.

Cheers, CC

Whorehouse Hose Nov 27th

2011-11-27T21:19:00.003-07:00

Climbed Whorehouse Hose with Annie Q today. What a GREAT day! The first pitch is in fine shape, but getting wet by noon-ish. The top-out is thin ice over rock or thin ice over the tube, tread lightly! The second pitch is wild right now... rather than the typical cruise up a snow cone and a slight bit of ice, it's thin ice over a pretty voluminous cold flow of water with reasonable ice just on the edges. Watch out for the "wading pool" 2/3 the way up the pitch - you can't see it from the bottom. We tip-toed around on a thin margin of snow that may have come down with the party behind us. Ended up taking the gloves off for rock holds around the pool. Third pitch is wild right now too. It's pretty hollow for the first 40' or so (with another nice deep wading pool at the base) - each swing causing the whole thing to ring deeply. After that it's a mixture of cauliflowers, a bit of egg shells, some nice soft plastic ice and thin ice over the tube and rock. All the fixed anchors are in great shape and the snow between pitches very supportable except for the "trap doors" over the water course. Might get a bit lean with the warm temperatures forecast. Thanks for a wonderful day Annie!

Direct North Face, Nov. 9th

2011-11-23T11:08:00.003-07:00

We just returned from a great fall road trip. Started out on ice in South Mineral Creek outside Silverton, then off to Zion and Red Rocks for a last bit of desert sun and rock. Here are photos from Gary Ryan and I climbing the Direct North Face on Nov. 9th. The first bit was pretty straight forward so we soloed up to the WI4 pitches. We opted to split the pitch up so we both could get a little time on the sharp end of the steeper ice. It was a tiny bit wet, but fun climbing! Enjoy the photos...

San Juan Powder Skiing

2011-11-22T16:45:00.001-07:00

Awesome! It is hard to believe it is only November. Fellow guides, Matt, Mark and I headed up into Commodore Basin on the hunt for early season powder skiing. What we found was snow that exceeded our expectations in both quality and quantity.

We cut several beautiful laps through the November fluff exclaiming to each other at the base of each run. We skied a bit off the shoulder of the alpine bowl that is Commodore Basin but the skiing in the pleasant open glades was probably the best. Tons of warm sun, cold powder, and phenomenal scenery made for a classic San Juan ski day.

Silverton and Ouray Ice Report

2011-11-15T16:36:00.001-07:00

1st pitch of Campground Couloir

2nd steep pillar on The Direct North Face (Fat!)

Despite the latest snow storm Stefan and I had two more excellent days on the early season ice. We climbed Campground Couloir and the Direct North Face in South Mineral Creek. We also got in some drytooling on the new routes on Camp Bird Road.

Stefan topping out the 1st steep pillar on the DNF

All the climbs in South Mineral Creek are in and FAT even the rarely formed Sundance is looking pretty good. Up on Camp Bird Road, the first pitch of Skylight is in. The rest of the climbs up there look in from the road but they are still on the harder side. Have fun and be careful topping out!

Men's Health Article

2011-11-14T17:53:00.000-07:00

Here is a link to a very entertaining article from Men's Health about ice climbing at the fest and skylight with SJMG.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/72740132/MHOuray

Silverton Ice Conditions

2011-11-12T19:21:00.001-07:00

Stairway

I got up to Eureka in Silverton to climb with Stefan from New Brunswick today. We did 1st and 2nd gullies. They were both in great shape. 1st gully is characteristically a bit on the thinner side but there is plenty to climb.

1st Gully

Stairway looks pretty heads up but probably doable. Goldrush looks climbable but a bit on the thin side, bring some rock gear. Further up the road Tempered by Fire looks ok, but the three stooges look like they need some time.

Have you ever climbed Burns Gulch? Its further up the road and looks pretty good. There are lots of cool drips and pillars forming with the melting snow.

2nd Gully

All this cloudy weather and snow will be really good for the snow melt fed climbs that are looking like they could get pretty darn good if it keeps snowing. I hope that helps for those of you wondering what it looks like out here. Stefan and I will be out for the next couple of days so check back to find out about South Mineral Creek and/or Camp Bird.
EG

Goldrush you can't see the bottom pitch which is usually the thin one.

Burns Gulch

Did I mention north facing powder skiing?

Camp Bird Road Ice Conditions

2011-11-11T13:27:00.000-07:00

Took a spin up the Camp Bird today, there is a bunch of ice on everything, though I wouldn't call any of it IN, yet. All the ice looked wet and fragile, I recommend giving it some more time to set up and fatten. Here are some pics of the main climbs up there.

The Ribbon. Looks like it will be a good year for this once it stays colder.

Birdbrain. The first crux pillar is in, but looks sparse up higher. Try not to be the one who gets on it too early and knocks it down, its hard to live that down!

Racing Stripes

Dumpster Diver

Skylight Pitch 1

Skylight Pitch 2

Talisman

Chock up Another One

Slippery When Wet

Slip Slidin' Away

Choppo's and Killer Pillar

Poser's Lounge

Soon my friends, very soon...

Cheers, CC

New Routes on Camp Bird Road

2011-11-10T19:00:00.001-07:00

Andres and I went up Camp Bird Road, drill in hand to expand the dry tooling options up there. There are a number of routes that have gone up there in the past couple of years that are worth checking out if you like to pull on rock with ice tools or are looking for a safe way to get comfortable on real steep terrain.

Many people know about the M6 that makes use of the shackle next to skylight and the M7 that shares the anchors. There are many more that don't get as much attention and are as good. We bolted an M3 that is good for beginners and there are a couple of M4s and M5s that have gone up in the past few years. One of my favorites is the thin, pumpy seam near the mile 4 marker up by chockstone it goes at about M5. If you want to try out this dry-tooling business and are looking for some easier options come on down and give some of these newer routes a try.

I am headed out ice climbing tomorrow so check back soon to find out about local ice conditions.

Ouray Ice Conditions

2011-11-07T17:39:00.002-07:00

Direct North Face

I took my trusty, Korean made, light SUV for a ride over the pass to see how the ice was doing in South Mineral Creek, usually the first ice of the season to form. While in the past I have enjoyed parking right across from these climbs, the kim chee mobile was cruxing through about 8+ inches of snow. With the current storm, only high clearance, corn-fed trucks will make it down the road and back easily.

The light was flat which made scoping the ice hard but needless to say it was on the thin side. Campground Couloir had tons of snow in it and looked wet, DNF looked thin and steep, and Snowblind looked close. While they could all be climbed on marginal pro, continued freezing temps mean that these climbs will be good to go for climbers who think placing an ice screw is more than a symbolic gesture.

Campground Couloir

Snow blind

Mammut 150 Peaks Project - Castleton

2011-10-18T10:55:00.000-06:00

Here are few pics that John Catto shared with me from our recent climb of Castleton Tower. It was one of the first events for Mammut's 150 Peaks Project to celebrate their 150th anniversary. Stay tuned for the finished film piece on our climb, coming soon...

SJMG Guide Pat Ormond bringing up the wheels for Sean O'Neil's wheelchair.

Whole team on the summit of Castleton.

Looking across to climbers in Fine Jade.

A-List Extreme Cameraman Jay Smith hard at work.

Get ready to go down, like the sun...

Happy Trails, CC

October on the Camp Bird Road

2011-10-11T18:15:00.000-06:00

Well, I guess winter must be close. We took a drive up the Camp Bird Road today, and there were guys drytooling near the Skylight. There were the good beginnings of ice on a number of climbs including the Ribbon, Racing Stripes, and the Talisman. Hopefully the nice weather coming our way doesn't knock it all down, or it could be epic come November!

Unknown climbers scratching away...

Ice forming down most of the Talisman.

Looking down Canyon Creek towards the Bridge of Heaven.

Ice starting to form on the Ribbon.

Happy Hunting, CC

HELLO FROM BISHKEK

2011-09-30T06:58:00.002-06:00

Hi, this is Andres reporting from Kyrgyzstan.

We are finally back in the capital after espending 20 climbing in the Torugart -Too range.

This range is located in the border of Kyrgyzstan and China. We where the firts americans on visit this awesome range and we also had the opportunity to climb 2 unclimbed peaks a 4000 and a 5000 meters peaks.

Both of them where great 1000 meters climbs full on crazy awesome alpine faces with lots of ice, rock, snow and great views.

Our approach to the range was by horses 3 days each way did make the experience super magic and little painfull. As you can imagine 3 days on a horse can get pretty crazy. In fact, my partner philippe fell out his horse bruising himself pretty good.

Anyhow, now is time for us to hang out in the city and wait a few days for our return back home.

I'm super excited to be back in san juans and start getting ready for the ice and mixed climbing season.

Hope to see you all there this winter.

Photos from this trip will be posted once I get back.

Cheers

Andres

Seasonal Update

2011-09-20T17:03:00.000-06:00

Here is our Seasonal Newsletter. It outlines the great climbing around now, as well as some of our upcoming trips and promotions.

Autumn 2011 Newsletter

Late Summer Snow!

2011-09-17T08:39:00.000-06:00

Well it looks like Autumn is well on its way to the San Juans. The last couple mornings we have woken up to a fresh dusting on the Amphitheater above Ouray. This morning was the most snow yet. Hopefully we keep getting early snow in the highcountry, and then we'll have one of those epic early seasons again. Its been a few years since I've climbed Birdbrain and the Ribbon on Halloween, but maybe this year!

A not so great photo of the new snow in the Amphitheater.

I'm headed back to the Utah desert shortly to get in some more sunny rock climbing over there! This next week of weather looks great for some late summer adventures. Come on out and climb one more San Juan peak, climb a classic route in the Black Canyon, or go to the desert for some towers. Make the most of the good weather coming our way, it'll be winter soon!

Cheers, CC

Awesome Traverse of Mt Wilson & El Diente.

2011-09-05T08:56:00.004-06:00

Ray and I had a great trip into the Wilson's near Telluride over the holiday weekend. We enjoyed a nice hike into upper Navajo Basin on Saturday afternoon via the Rock of Ages Trail. This new access to the Wilson's is incredible. The weather was quite stable with just a few light showers in the area. After a relatively warm evening spent in the high alpine, Ray and I were on route at sunrise on Sunday morning. Conditions were perfect for what can be quite a long day on the traverse. Ray was super strong and we made great time. This is such a remarkable setting. Thanks Ray for a great trip.

Respectfully,

Great Climbing in the San Juans

2011-09-05T07:40:00.000-06:00

Happy Labor Day!

Well, it is officially the end of summer, but there is still plenty of Summer Climbing Season left here in the San Juans. We have had lots of guides out in the high peaks, on the crags, and in the canyons. Teakettle, Dallas Peak, and Sneffels have been very popular as of late.

It is also a great time to start getting into the Black Canyon, Unaweep, and other late season climbing areas.

Get out and enjoy the rest of the nice weather!

Ouray Canyoning

2011-07-20T14:04:00.000-06:00

I had an awesome day with the Hicks family from Palisade today. They came down for our 1-Day Private Wet Canyon Intro Course. It was a beautiful day for it. Here are some pics from Ivan's Trail.

Ouray Canyon Season is Here!

2011-07-19T11:58:00.000-06:00

GUIDED CANYONING!!!!

The Ouray Canyon Season has begun! Water levels have dropped in most canyons to an acceptable adventure level. Give us a call, get out there and try this unique San Juan Adventure.

Canyon Courses Webpage

Portland Creek Bridge Falls. Ivan's Trail as it is known is the perfect place for beginner canyoneers.

Get out early and beat the thunderstorms!

Lots of Summer Fun in Ouray!

2011-07-19T11:51:00.000-06:00

We've been busy mountaineering, rock climbing, and adventuring around the San Juans. Here are a few pics from rock climbing with a few groups.

14 year old Devon on the Groove Tube 5.9.

Enjoying the atmosphere in the Alcove.

Part Time local Nick starts up the Groove Tube.

Juliana taking a Test Drive 5.8.

Climbing is a great Father-Daughter activity!

Lots to do!

Mt Wilson El Diente Traverse

2011-07-13T12:38:00.000-06:00

Guided Mt.Wilson (14,246) El Diente (14,159) Traverse- July 7th/8th.

I picked up Andy at the KOA campground outside of Ouray at noon. The weather forecast was not the best, we had been in an afternoon storm cycle for a few days, and it looked to continue for the next two days of our planned climb. That meant good waterproof gear, and an early a.m. start for summit day. Fingers crossed we would be up and off the ridge before the storm chased us off.

Just driving in the San Juan’s this time of year is exhilarating, and we made a pleasant journey over Lizard Head Pass and onto the 7 mile dirt road to the Navajo Lake Trailhead… just as the building clouds decided to unleash! A wet but mellow 4 mile approach led us to the Navajo Lake, where and when the sun came out and we enjoyed an evening’s meal, some well earned RnR, and a chance to dry out. Tents up and early to bed, the alarm was set for 4 a.m. Hot coffee, oatmeal and some bread led to the head-lamped approach up the Navajo Basin, to our 1st objective of the day, the North Slopes route and summit of Mt.Wilson (14,246). As dawn broke and we stashed headlamps, a faint veil of clouds became apparent, not what we were wishing for, but not enough to deter us at this point. We continued up the north shoulder to the base of the North Slopes. Thanks to something of a record winter in the San Juan’s the summer snow climbs are still in great shape, and the couloir led all the way to the ridge, some 1000ft plus of cramponing above us. We broke out the rope and hardwear and made the ridge in great time. Dropping the packs in the notch we continued to short rope the exciting final 150ft ridge (and crux) to the summit of Mt.Wilson. It’s a classic, a small pinnacle summit that you virtually mantelshelf onto. 8.30 a.m. and Andy’s 51st Fourteener!

The weather continued somewhat overcast but unthreatening. We retraced our steps back to the notch on the ridge proper, took a bite to eat and contemplated the next possible few hours at or above 14k on the ridge leading to the summit of El Diente, a mind bending half mile away! Now there’s no hiding the fact that the San Juan’s are not exactly the most stable of rock formations. But that’s part of there magnificent beauty which in turn creates such dramatic peaks and knife edge ridges. With that in mind it was a couscous 3hr roped traverse virtually across the top of the ridge itself. A wild ride as it narrows to mere body width in places and drops away some 2000ft on either side to the basins below. The route finding along the ridge is complicated and can be time consuming, not to mention the constant elevation starts to slow things down, but we made ok time across to the saddle below El Diente. This was the meeting point of our chosen descent route and is still some 250ft and approximately an hour shy of the summit of El Diente. Andy had been trucking along fine but was finally starting to feel the weight of the day. There really is no substitute or training for acclimatization, other than going high, often and repeatedly. For me as a guide living at 9k ft in the San Juan’s, this was my 5th 14er of the week, I felt good but worked. We were perhaps an hour and half away from Andy’s 53rd 14,000ft summit in Colorado. It was 11.30 a.m, the weather was still holding… but it’s Andy’s call. A 15 minute break, some chocolate and liquids… and he was all in, “let’s do it!”. Stoked we crossed what was left of the ridge to a final short snow slope that led to the true summit of El Diente.. and number 52 for the day. Hard going but well worth it.

Now it’s always a good feeling to start moving down and it felt especially good to leave such an exposed place, but we still had a 2000ft 60 degree snow slope to descend back into the Navajo Basin to our camp. The snow was still holding up fine for plunge stepping, but the ropes didn’t really come off until we hit the valley floor… what a climb!

Hiking back into camp found us both somewhat exhausted but elated. A much needed bowl of hot Thai noodles helped pack camp and head out on the walk to the trailhead. Not to mention the beers we had promised each other for each summit from the Colorado Boy brew pub (my fav!) in Ridgway if we made it back in time. Needless to say, we did!
The pizza is excellent there too… good times, sore muscles. Andy headed back to the family at the KOA and I crawled off to the Orvis Hotsprings for the last hour… best hour.

For my part it had been a great couple of days getting to know a fun, strong client, in amazing surroundings and circumstances. Challenging and gawd awful hard work at times… but worth every Advil! Thanks again for a great trip Andy… and best of luck with the final 3!

Gary Ryan
San Juan Mountain Guide
garyguides@gmail.com

Losing one of our own.

2011-07-12T07:26:00.000-06:00

It is always super hard to lose some one you know, whether it is a sudden event or something more long term. On Sunday we lost one of our most cherished friends and staff members, Bean Bowers.

Bean has worked for SJMG for a couple for years, and his continual tenacity and wit are unforgettable. Please help support his wife Helen any way you can through this tough stretch. If you didn't know Bean, go to www.beanfever.com to see what a life fully lived looks like.

http://www.beanfever.com/donate.html

Happy trails my friend. CC

Perfect Conditions on Teakettle Mountain

2011-06-13T12:19:00.000-06:00

Climbed Teakettle on Sunday with a couple nice folks from Colorado Springs. We got an early start and enjoyed perfect snow conditions both ways. The SW Couloir route has to be one of the highest quality alpine routes anywhere with that short an approach!

Here is the view of the summit block from the top of the snow ridge. solid and blocky climbing for 30 feet to the small perch on top.

Looking west through a notch near the top to Mt
Sneffels.

Starting back down the ridge with Potosi in the background.

Alpine conditions are getting primo!
Cheers, CC

Twin Peaks Guided Hike

2011-06-08T18:23:00.000-06:00

Had a beautiful day up on the Twin Peaks Trail today with David and Joel from the Midwest. There is till a bunch of snow on the trail up higher on the North aspects, but it is manageable.

Enjoying the first of many scenic vistas.

The beautiful City of Ouray from 2,500 feet above.

David takes in the grand panorama from the summit. Potosi Peak and Whitehouse Mountain are in the background.

Making our way down through some nice Spring vegetation with the peaks behind.

David demonstrates good log and pole crossing skills to his entertained brother.

Thanks guys! Great day!

Potosi Peak

2011-06-07T12:37:00.001-06:00

Mark guided long time SJMG family member Julie from New Mexico on the imposing Potosi Peak on monday. This peak has a certain notoriety for being loose and unpleasant, but as you'll see from the photos its good right now! Just make sure you have good snow skills and get an early start.

Mark nears the top of the couloir.

Julie enjoys the view from the top.

The only scree on the route, at the very top.

A short thin ice crux provided a smidge of excitement!

Nice work!

Skiing the Snake Couloir

2011-05-28T15:11:00.001-06:00

Spent this sweet Saturday guiding Sam from New Mexico down the Snake Couloir on Mount Sneffels. The weather was beautiful, despite a steady breeze. We left the car around 11,000ft at 0500 and started the skin up into Yankee Boy Basin. Climbing conditions were quite good, and we were up on the summit in a couple hours.

Sam on the 14,150 ft summit of Mount Sneffels.

We fueled up, set the rappel anchor, and headed down into the top of the Snake. At the end of the rope we found some really nice soft snow, and we started to think this might be a good day. We put on the boards and got psyched. The conditions on the top half were a little variable, but we found mostly soft powder lingering on the skier's left side. Sam proceeded to rip it up.


Sam making some nice turns down the first leg off the summit.

At the dogleg bend we encountered a nice combination of fresh corn snow and powder in the shade. The crux of the descent is the tight and steep section just down from the bend. It was pretty hard with a runnel worn into the middle, but Sam did an awesome job of side-slipping and hop-turning through it. We were soon down into more soft powder where the couloir opens up, and Sam let 'em run a bit!

Sam gets a bit more aggressive!

Overall, we could not have asked for better conditions.

Sam takes a breather and reflects on this incredible high mountain descent.

Thanks Sam! Super Special Day!

Cheers, CC

Looking back up at the choke from high in Blaine Basin.

Rock Climbing in the Moab Desert

2011-05-24T11:18:00.000-06:00

Spent last weekend over in Moab, climbing with Bill from California. It was his first experience climbing the unique sandstone of this area. With some specific instruction on different hand and foot jamming techniques, pointers on combining these techniques into movement sequences, and a few practice laps; Bill was climbing right up some challenging cracks.

We started off at the very popular Wall Street area. We were the first ones there and were able to jump around and climb exactly the routes we wanted all day. We alternated between classic slab routes like Snake Slab 5.8, and classic crack routes like the Flakes of Wrath 5.9+. Each of these routes has different opportunities for learning different skills. We had an awesome first day with over 10 pitches of sandstone sweetness!

The Snake Slab 5.8+, Wall Street

The Flakes of Wrath 5.9+, Wall Street

We wrapped up the trip with the world famous and very unique Ancient Art Tower. Located in the Fisher Towers outside of Moab, Ancient Art is a twisted spire of Cutler Sandstone that appears to defy the laws of gravity. After a couple pitches of bolted face and fun chimney climbing we were positioned under the final column in the sky. Everything was very fun and Bill enjoyed his momentary perch high above the desert floor.

Bill starting up the final pitch on the Stolen Chimney II 5.9 A0, Ancient Art, Fisher Towers

Don't Slip! Bill braves the exposure and has a stand on top!

Sweet trip! Thanks Bill!

Cheers, CC

Spring in the San Juans

2011-04-30T07:57:00.000-06:00

Changing seasons here in the San Juans. One day its beautiful and the next it snows a bunch!

There is plenty of good skiing around, and super nice rock climbing in the sun as well. It should be a good alpine season, although maybe a little later to start perhaps. It has definitely been a late winter around Ouray. Not sure how the roads are plowed out everywhere, but there is still a lot of snow up high.

June and July should prove to be great times for climbing snow and ice routes on the high peaks of the Sneffels, Wilson, and Cimarron ranges.

Right now we are all climbing in the desert or Black Canyon or skiing. Hope everyone out there is enjoying Spring as well! I'm headed to Alaska for a 12-day alpine expedition, but am already looking forward to the sunny rock climbing and beautiful alpine climbing back here!

Cheers, Clint

2011-03-08T08:56:00.000-07:00

While many are turning their attention to the coming spring time, a few hardy souls know that the ice climbing is not only still good, the crowds are gone. Scott and I enjoyed two quiet days in the ice park. The second day we were joined by Dave and had the whole scottish gullies area to ourselves.

Scott and Dave both had ice climbed before but were looking for a refresher on the foundations of their ice climbing skills. We worked our way through San Juan Mountain Guides uniquely effective ice climbing curriculum. From triangles to monkey hangs to flagging and using your hips, Scott and Dave quickly moved from low angle ice to vertical ice to

over hung chandeliered ice. Exercises like climbing with no tools then with one tool and climbing without kicking or swinging taught the duo how to stay stable on their feet and how to move creatively on the deceptively varied medium of ice.

Great job gentlemen we look forward to going even bigger next year!

Train to Go Big

2011-03-05T17:10:00.002-07:00

Matt has big plans. This spring he is headed to Mount Rainier's Liberty Ridge, a spectacular objective in and of itself. The ice tower some climbers in Michigan constructed near Matt's home was not quite enough training. So Matt decided to come out to Ouray, Colorado for four jam packed days of steep snow and lots and lots of ice.

Matt and I hit the must see venues of Ouray ice climbing. We spent the obligatory day in the ice park honing Matt's technique over the course of around a thousand feet of climbing. The next day we figured, why not a thousand more? So we headed over for a sunny day on Eureka's Stairway to Heaven. Though the good weather did not hold Matt and I were able to get plenty of climbing in over the next two days on Horsetail Falls, several routes at the Skylight area, and a few long laps in the Pic o' the Vic area in the ice park to wind down the day.

Matt is climbing strong and certainly ready to take on Liberty Ridge. Good luck Matt!

P.S. Watch the top outs on Skylight they are a bit slushy/non-existent.

SUCAP Ice Trip

2011-02-21T19:11:00.000-07:00

This morning I had the pleasure of guiding a very different group, kids! It is really fun to work with young folks who are excited to explore ice climbing. These particular kids from Ignacio, CO came as a part of a Southern Ute Community Action Program (SUCAP) trip. SUCAP is dedicated to supporting the community of Igancio and communities across La Plata County.

The trip to ice climb in Ouray with the crew here at San Juan Mountain Guides is one of several designed to give the kids access to the exciting recreation right in their backyards. It was fun to watch the kids beam as they met their friends at the end of the day who had opted for more horizontal recreation . The kids displayed such pride at having tried something new, overcome their fears, and set and accomplished goals they set for themselves.

San Juan Ice Climbing

2011-02-17T17:46:00.000-07:00

My old friend Paul is back in town for w tune up before our annual Canada pilgrimage. It has been super rewarding watching Paul develop over the last few seasons. This trip we started at the Skylight area, ticking all the major flows.

Paul coming up into the upper chimney on Slippery When Wet.

After that we tackled the Ribbon in good alpine conditions. Then he climbed Whorehouse with Kevin. Today we went over and climbed Bridalveil Falls. Super trip so far!

Finishing up around the awkward traverse into the 1st belay.

Bridalveil Falls WI5- 2/17/11

Looking strong Paul!

Cheers, CC

Cascade Falls

2011-02-04T12:04:00.001-07:00

Its been cold in Ouray, like everywhere else... Here that means you get to climb Cascade Falls.

Dawn Glanc headed up 8th ave this morning with David K. to have a look. There was the obligatory funk section surmounting the cone, but all in all it looked pretty fun!

Bridalveil Falls

2011-01-26T12:00:00.000-07:00

Climbed Bridalveil last Sunday with Anthony from Australia. It was a gorgeous day with great conditions.

Cheers, CC

2011-01-25T16:54:00.002-07:00

Climbed Stairway today with Chuck. -7 when we left the car. Ice was a bit brittle and not a single pick hole to be found. Recent sun must have healed every thing. Complete virgin sticks end to end, had to actually earn this ascent, but the blue of the ice was absolutely beautiful. Well worth the effort, breaking trail and all.

Skylight climbing

2011-01-22T08:59:00.000-07:00

Just wrapped up 3 days with B.K. from California. This was a quick tune up before we go to Canada and Alaska later this season We spent the first two days in the ice park working on techniques for different types of ice and mixed climbing. On day three we went up to the skylight area to try and crack out a bunch of routes.

It was a beautiful day and we climbed the Skylight, Slip Slidin' Away, Slippery When Wet, and then took a couple laps on the excellent alpine mixed climbing training climb Dumpster Diver M5. This type of climbing is very different from traditional ice technique, but Bill had it pretty smooth by the end of the second lap.

The Dumpster Diver M5

Opposing drop knee maneuver to reach up high.

Demonstrating the Crouching Tiger Technique.

Ouray is an incredible place to train for upcoming alpine objectives. Every year we train dozens of climbers for the greater ranges.

Cheers, CC

Climbing in the Ouray Ice Park

2011-01-20T16:55:00.000-07:00

Conditions are good in the Ouray Ice Park. Climbed in the Schoolroom, Pic of the Vic, and Lead Area on Wednesday. Then today in the Scottish Gullies, Fingers, and Paranoia areas. All are in good shape! Hardly anyone around all day!

Cheers, CC

Bailin' on the Brain

2011-01-18T05:43:00.000-07:00

Not often do you get to read about a couple of guys running home with their tail between their legs. But sometimes it happens!

On Monday, my co-worker and I decided to try and climb Birdbrain. We had heard of a recent ascent and figured we could scratch our way up as well. We didn't look too close at at the forecast before we drove up there. All looked chill as we walked up and racked at the base. I took off and climbed up to the first pin anchor on the left. From there, Pat took the lead and headed into the chimney.

As Pat left the anchor, the wind kicked up, and a steady flow of spindrift quickly grew to rapid torrents. Somehow, Pat made it up to the next anchor, climbing the steep bulge with no ice through heavy downpours. I enjoyed my pitch of fresh faceshots, and we got the hell out of there!

There is no doubt that one could scratch their way all the way up Birdbrain right now. We felt like it was too risky with the spindrift. There are mandatory long run-outs with poor gear, insecure climbing, and marginal anchors. I doubt I'll be back over there this year, but it was nice to have a little adventure.

Cheers, CC

4-Day Intensive Lead Seminar

2011-01-17T13:53:00.000-07:00

4-Day Intensive Lead Seminar

Feb 1-4, 2011
$875. 2:1 ratio
We are proud to introduce this new program. Senior SJMG Guide Mark Miller has been teaching climbers to lead water ice for over decade and has developed an incredible curriculum for the aspiring water ice leader. Within a small group setting, participants will be able to increase their confidence and push into more difficult grades with grace and style.
Topics will include:
screw placement, v-threads, and zero-threads
different anchor systems for ice climbing
movement strategies for lead
belays, rappels, and transitions
route selection, routefinding, and route planning
equipment and protection selection
single, half, and twin rope techniques and technique selection recommendations
multi-pitch climbs
rescuing a fallen leader
and tons more!
We will negin with a solid review of fundamental movement technique and then move quickly into more technical skills, practice exercises, and instructor demos. Participants will transition through mock leads and simulation exercises onto the sharp end. Students will lead climbs well within their ability as the instructor climbs next to them and evaluates protection and technique.

If you are serious about being an elegant and efficient ice leader, leading ice climbs with style and flow, and want to avoid the "kickin' chicken" technique; this is the course for you. Days will be packed full of instruction and information, as well as tons of hands on application time.

Bridalveil Falls

2011-01-16T18:19:00.000-07:00

Climbed Bridalveil on Thurs. It was very fun. WI5 climbing.

Cheers, CC

Gravity's Rainbow

2011-01-11T13:33:00.000-07:00

Gravity's Rainbow WI5- 1/11/11

Pitch 1, still a little juicy at 1 degree F.

One good screw at the bottom of the pillar, one good one at the top...

Patrick heads up the stellar WI4 2nd pitch.

After Gravity's we went to the park for a couple laps in the lead area. Abridgement is a bit junky on the bottom. But the upstream WI5 pillars are both in super condition.

Have Fun! CC

Ice Climbing Progression

2011-01-11T08:17:00.002-07:00

I recently had the pleasure of spending 3 days working with Steve and Mitch. They were on a father-son trip to Ouray to learn to ice climb. As an ice climbing instructor it is important to me to not only show guests a great time but to lay out a logical progression over multiple days. I strive to make each day challenging and educational and have each day build on the previous day's skills. By the end of a few days it is a joy to watch my guests make their way up Ouray's ultra classic ice climbs and say to themselves with a smile "I can't believe I did that!"

Steve, Mitch, and I spent a day in the Ouray Ice Park learning the fundamentals of ice climbing and laying the groundwork for the next two days. Day two we took on some small multi pitch climbs up camp bird road and practiced ascending and descending multiple pitches. Our final day took us to Ouray's famous ice climb The Ribbon. Steve and Mitch were lucky to climb this rarely forming classic. It was, in San Juan Mountain Guides owner Clint Cook's view, a proud tick. Hopefully it was a father-son trip Steve and Mitch will cherish for a long time to come.

Gravity Wall Conditions

2011-01-10T17:27:00.000-07:00

Its been a good week on the Gravity Wall above Highway 550. Gravity's Rainbow and Kennedy's Gully have been seeing multiple ascents with the colder temps.

Cory and I climbed all of Kennedy's on the 2nd. The 1st pitch was super sweet.

The middle was kind of skritchy-scratchy, and the top was plastic. All in all a fun day on one of the best alpine lines in Ouray.

Gravity's still looks good this afternoon (the 10th). Kennedy's looks worse, though there was a party up high on it at 1630. Gravitational Pull is close, Gravity's Test is not, and you can definitely make your way Over the Rainbow.

Conditions can be highly variable on all those routes, so go prepared.

Cheers, CC

Ice Festival!

2011-01-10T17:12:00.000-07:00

The ice fest was once again a huge success!

Thanks to everyone who helps make it such a fun and exciting weekend!

On to the Rest of the Season.

Cheers, CC

THE FUTURE ICE MASTERS.

2010-12-27T21:03:00.003-07:00

This past Sunday we had the first Kids Ice day of the season.

We all had a super good times.

It was great to see how psyched this kids were about ice climbing.. It will be great to see this great ice climbers 10 years from know. In the end they are going to be the future of the sport right !!!!

The instruction that they had was top notch.

(In this photo Clint Cook SJMG director giving 101 ice technique)

Is never to early or to late to practice, try, or master Ice climbing!!!!!!

If you have any doubts check out this little Ice master :)

Stay tun up and get your ice on!!!!!.

Andres

Current Ouray Conditions

2010-12-26T21:35:00.000-07:00

Currently the Schoolroom and Kids Wall are open for climbing, and are in ok shape. Colder temps are forecast over the new year holiday so hopefully we will get some new ice grown.

The Skylight area is in pretty good shape and seeing plenty of traffic. The recent wet snow in the highcountry has coated a number of climbs in a thick snicy concoction. We should be able to start venturing out a little further this week, and will post what we find!

Cheers CC

Lots of Ice Climbing!

2010-12-14T12:21:00.001-07:00

We had a busy weekend despite the recent nice weather. A number of guides were in different spots, but I had the distinct pleasure of guiding Anthony C. from Australia. Ant had some alpine experience in New Zealand, but this was his first trip to Ouray.

We spent the first day at the Skylight area climbing Slip Slidin Away, Slippery When Wet, and the 1st pitch of the Skylight. Day 2 we went to Whorehouse Hoses and found super good conditions on the whole route. Here are some pics.

Anthony topping out the 70m 1st pitch of Whorehouse Hoses.

Your local friendly mountain guide. Top of Pitch 3 Left.

Ant raps our last pitch.

Right Pitch 3. WI4, a tad hollow in the middle.


Ant raps Pitch 1 as another party heads up the groovy left side.

It's sweet out there! CC

TALISMAN

2010-12-01T21:45:00.005-07:00

Some days ago myself (Andres) and my partner Steve House decide to go climb the Talisman.

We had the opportunity to do the first ascent of the season, and for our surprise we find the route being very engaging.
The first pitch was totally dry so we end up taking the right side where we wore able to climb some frozen Mose.

The second pitch it was awesome very hard mixed climbing with a great ice pillar finish.
Here Steve is starting the third pitch. What a great pitch.... Very steep pitch.

All good times with a great climbing partner.Talisman pitch by pitch rating as we find it:

P1: 5.6 R S

P2:M6 WI 5+

P3:WI 5+

P4:WI5

Andres Marin, Steve House.

A Little Fix

2010-11-30T17:03:00.002-07:00

Went out this afternoon for a quick solo of the Ribbon. It's in the fattest condition I've seen in a couple seasons. It has already seen numerous ascents for the season, 2/3 to 3/4 of my sticks were just improving on the hooks already put there by others. The first steep section had holes from 10 and 13cm screws and the upper section looks like it will take at least a 17cm. Sorry no pictures, my hands were otherwise occupied.

Eureka Ice Climbing

2010-11-29T18:43:00.001-07:00

I had the pleasure of guiding Charlie from NM on Sunday. He was one of the first guys I took out with SJMG 10 years ago. It was Charlie's first day of the winter season, and we chose the fun Gully 2 in Eureka. The road looked a little spicy so opted to walk in. There were 2 parties on Stairway as we approached.

Stairway to Heaven III WI4+ (11/28/10)

The conditions on both Gullies and Goldrush have improved significantly since my last visit. We climbed all the way to the last chains on Gully 2 and then rappelled via chains and threads. We past a friendly party on our way down and one soloist. A fairly busy day for Silverton!

1st pitch of Gully 2.

Top of pitch 3.

Hoser's Highway looked steep and proud, but very doable. Stairway is good to go. Whorehouse looked really big from the parking lot.

In other areas, folks have been climbing the Ames Ice Hose in quite lean conditions, as well as the Talisman. The Ribbon is seeing regular traffic and BBB is getting climbed despite its lean shape. Skylight climbs are all ok as well. Have Fun!!! CC

Giving Thanks

2010-11-28T09:19:00.003-07:00

We've been out sampling the San Juan powder the past few days, with outtings on both sides of Red Mountain Pass. Conditions are good overall and getting more stable. Hoping we get a bit more new snow today and tomorrow - lower down coverage is a bit thin. Slabs are out there at, above and just below treeline, although there is very little movement in these now. Powder is good and supportable everywhere except in a few isolated locations at roll-overs and next to trees and rocks (as should be expected). Temps have really warmed up the past few days, which makes for even more pleasant outtings! Here's a shot from a warm afternoon at Sam's trees.

Winter in the San Juans

2010-11-25T20:36:00.000-07:00

Howdy!

We've all been out skiing and climbing a bunch the last week, and it is starting to feel like the real winter season is almost here. The water is on full blast in the ice park, and there are already some impressive pillars forming. We've guided a number of early season ice climbs in the high country and a few ski tours as well.

I climbed up the Chockstone Chimney and skied the Oh-Boy and Log Cabin tours the last three days, and all were super fun.

The snow and ice are still thin in general, but its hard to complain!

More to come....

CC

The Ribbon

2010-11-19T16:43:00.002-07:00

Steve and I climbed the Ribbon this afternoon. It is in pretty good condition and generally gets better the higher you go. The crux seems to be keeping dry feet while crossing the river. Pitch one is a little thin on the protection but the climbing is all there and quite straight forward. Pitch two quickly gets into pretty fat ice and it's bomber the rest of the way. Things were a little wet but not as bad as we expected, considering the high temps today. I'll try to post some pics if I can get them off my phone.

Two local lads were rapping the Ribbon as we walked up. They climbed Bird Brain and had nothing remarkable to report, other than "it's in."

Until next time...

Happy Trails,
Kevin

A Couple of Birdbrains

2010-11-12T21:31:00.003-07:00

11/12/10 PC and I decided to see if Birdbrain was as in as it appeared from the road. The first pitch was nearly dry. The crux pillar was very fragile, but doable. As we got higher the ice became a bit better so that I was eventually able to place a couple stubby ice screws, the rest stayed on my harness as baggage. We did get to the top but calling it in might be a bit of a stretch.

Eureka!

2010-11-12T21:14:00.006-07:00

11/10/10 Stairway was still a little thin but improving, so we continued on to Highway to Hell.
It had a couple pitches of thin but low angle ice. This pitch was about grade 4 and took good screws. There is another grade 3 pitch above. The crux of the day was crossing the creek.

mark in south mineral

2010-11-09T16:55:00.002-07:00

Went climbing in South Mineral Creek today on Direct North Face. The steeps were in excellent condition. Need stubby screws for belays unless you can reach the base of the next steep section.

The real crux is crossing the creek at the bottom, not frozen.

North San Juan Ice Climbing

2010-11-08T12:15:00.000-07:00

Climbed the 2nd Gully Route in Eureka today. No snow anywhere in the area. Ice was thin but generally well formed, protectable, and fun to climb.

Cory leads up the first steep step.

The final headwall into the upper gully and walk off.

1st Gully looked to be possible, as did the Highway to
Hell. Everything else was super bony. Went into South Mineral Creek as well. The Direct North Face Route had a bunch of ice but didn't quite look go to go. Snowblind is still forming. The campground couloirs had a bit pf ice and could probably get scratched up if you really get the jones.

Hopefully this next system will give us another blast of ice generating conditions.

We will be keeping a ice condition table this winter at

http://www.ourayclimbing.com/pages/show/Ice+Conditions http://www.ourayclimbing.com/pages/show/Ice+Conditions

Happy Winter Season, CC

Ice is starting to form.

2010-11-06T17:07:00.004-06:00

Thursday morning I went for a quick scout of how the ice is coming in. In Eureka, First and Second Gully looked in along with Road to Nowhere. In South Mineral Creek, Direct North Face was in the best condition with Campground Couloir close behind. The steep sections looked thin, but climbable, the top outs all appeared rather thin. Checking closer to Ouray on 361 the Ribbon and Birdbrain Boulevard both appear to be in better condition than they have been in a couple seasons. Hopefully I will get time to climb some of these in the next week and if so will try to keep updated.

Skiing in the San juans

2010-10-28T19:51:00.002-06:00

Went ski touring today on Red Mountain Pass. Pretty bony still but soft and very fun! CC

Ice is forming in the San Juans

2010-10-28T19:50:00.000-06:00

There is a good start to the ice season forming up in the mountains. I was up at Skylight yesterday and the routes have a good bit of wet ice on them. There was a good start to the ribbon and BBB as well. We'll see if it makes it through the next week.

Winter Season is Coming!

2010-10-23T15:42:00.000-06:00

Well, the snow is starting to add up in the mountains. It won't be long till we can all start another great season of winter climbing and skiing. I'll get up and make the regular ice preview loop soon and report any ice I find!

In the meantime, keep training.

I know of one hyper fool who already has like 10 days of drytooling in !

Think Cold Thoughts!

Dolomites 2010: Challenge, Adventure, and History.

2010-09-06T20:05:00.000-06:00

Artist's rendition of the famed Tofana di Rozes. This beautiful limestone peak has seen many versions of human struggle. A key strategic point during WWI, the Tofana has also been the home to a history of rock climbing development in Italy. It has classic routes from the early 1900's as well as modern desperate free climbs.

Just returned home from the Dolomite Mountains of Northern Italy. It seems like yesterday I dreamed of being able to guide in such a beautiful and historic range. I've led a bunch of trips there now and they all rank super high on my list of enjoyment.

Bill and I have climbed a lot together over the years, and I was psyched to get to show him what are some of my favorite routes anywhere on the planet. Here is our hit list.

Torri di Falzarego

Cinque Torri: Via Miriam on Torre Grande Cima Sud, and Via Olga on Cima Ovest

Tofana di Rozes: Primo Spigolo

Pomgagnon: Punta Fiames - Spigolo Jori

Tofana di Rozes: Pilastro di Ghedina

Sasso di Stria

Crepe du Oucere Basso

The classic training ground of Cinque Torri, complete with hot tub at the hut.

On top of Torre Grande di Falzarego after completing the awesome south arete traverse of both towers. The Lagazuoi is in the background.

12 pitches up the Spigolo Jori.

Bill grins after cruising the stout UIAA V+ crux on this long classic route.

Just another 2000 foot limestone wall. Can't remember the name, looks like a mini Eiger northwall.

Monte Piau.

Thanks Bill. See you next year!

Ciao, Clint

Valais Alps 8-Day: Matterhorn, Breithorn, Allalinhorn, Jagihorn, Riffelhorn, and more!

2010-08-14T07:32:00.002-06:00

Just returned home from another great trip to the Valais Alps of southern Switzerland. This area is steeped in a long history of alpine sport and a perfect place to enjoy an adventurous mountain holiday!


View of the Matterhorn from our deck on the first day we arrived in Zermatt. A little snowy!

Jon and Lars came from Colorado for 8 days of climbing on the ridges, crags, and glaciers surrounding Zermatt and Saas Fee. With our eye on the Matterhorn, we starting training and acclimatizing. Our first day we climbed the classic Half-Traverse of the Breithorn.

North Face of the Breithorn. The 1/2 Traverse starts in the saddle on the left, then climbs the three rock steps to the snow arete finish.

The men performed well and we were quickly on top and back to the Klein Matterhorn tram for a ride back down to town.


Past the rock towers with the final snow ridges ahead.

Lars and Jon on the summit with Matterhorn and Dent Blanche in the back.

Day 2: Rock Skills Training on the Riffelhorn!
Beautiful views, good rock, and lots of different routes to work on.

Station Rotenboden: Depart Gornergrat train for Riffelhorn. Our first training route of the day was Skyline 4a on the left edge of the formation.

Route #2 for the day, Thermometer - Egg 5c (french grades!)

Pretty steep for mountain boots on rock, but lots of handholds.

Summit of the Riffelhorn.

View of the Weisshorn from Riffelhorn.

Back to our humble hillside abode in Zermatt. The Matterhorn is getting drier!

Angel Creek Canyoning

2010-07-16T18:54:00.000-06:00

Made a nice trip down Angel Creek Canyon this week. Water levels are perfect for exploring the alpine canyons around Ouray. Angel is an idyllic little canyon perfect for the novice canyoneer looking for a quick escape into the canyon reality! Here are some pics of Kevin and I.

Great Article in the Denver Post!

2010-07-07T13:15:00.000-06:00

http://www.denverpost.com/recommended/ci_15445181

Canyoning Season!

2010-06-23T21:08:00.000-06:00

The water flows in most of the area canyons are starting to taper off. We took a trip down Portland Creek this last week, and it was in very fun condition.

Mooses Tooth 2010

2010-05-14T08:38:00.000-06:00

Had a great trip with Fabio from Italy the first week of May. we flew into the Root Canal glacier with high hopes of tagging a few classic routes. Ham and Eggs was in great shape, but Shaken and others weren't quite that well formed. There were a number of teams in line to climb, but we knew we would be pretty quick, so we got up at 2:30 on our third day and headed to the base.

Fabio is a super solid alpinist with a number of demanding routes in the Alps under his belt. Alaska is a bit of a different ball game, but he quickly made the adjustments and was firing like a veteran in no time.

I started us out on the first 3 pitched to set the tempo, and then turned over the lead to Fabio. He ran up the lower snow pitches and then proceeded to fire out the crux ice lead in fine style.

In no time at all we were at the col, and then the summit. We tracked a fine line up the summit ridge, and were basking in the glow of success in eight hours from our departure. 20 or so rappels later we were sunbathing on the glacier and drinking beer.

We had on more fine day of weather, which we used to go up the Incisor and have a closer look at Shaken. It didn't look that great, but we figure we would investigate anyway. But the weather had other ideas. We got a couple feet of snow the next 2 days. I was glad Fabio got the Full Alaska Adventure. as the clouds cleared we stomped out a runway for the TAT Otter, made the call, and flew out to Talkeetna.
It was an excellent trip with great company! Grazie Fabio!

Cheers, CC

Ice Park - End of Season

2010-04-04T10:36:00.000-06:00

Today is Closing Day for the ice park, though the ice itself still looks pretty good overall! The bottom is getting pretty tricky to move around in though. Went up to see if anything was coming in on the Ribbon, no change so far, still dry. But the Hangover Helper pillar is just touching and may continue to fatten into a freestanding climbable WI6+ pillar. Its looks a lot like Pilsner Pillar wild!

Big thanks to everyone who made this such a great ice season for SJMG. Conditions were great most of the year, and I had lots of good memories from days out with all my guests. I'm off to Mexico for a couple weeks to get a little summer blast before I go to Alaska for a couple trips. I'll let everyone know how they go.

Cheers, CC

Canada Wrap Up

2010-03-22T04:40:00.000-06:00

Back in Ouray from Canada. Bill and I finished up strong. Great week to end on! For our last three days we climbed the area classics...

Louise Falls 110 m WI5
The Professor Falls 280 m WI4+

Carlsberg Column 140 m WI5

Carlsberg Column Pitch 2

Carlsberg Column Pitch 3

Time to start thinking about Alaska!
Cheers, CC

Oh Canada!

2010-03-16T17:48:00.000-06:00

Well, I wrapped up with Paul a week or so ago. We went out with a bang! Paul stepped up and bagged one of the coolest ice routes on the planet, The Sorcerer.

We took it easy on his last day and climbed the classic Guinness Gully. Awesome week, great temps, and good company. I love my job.

Next up were Bobby and Pat from North Carolina. They are Ouray veterans, but this was their first trip to the great white north. We started with the classic Louise Falls, which was a bit burlier than usual and a solid WI5. After a good snowfall, we opted for the Weeping Wall and Icefields tour. Interesting climbing,followed by spectacular scenery.

Weeping Wall

Mt Assiniboine

Mt Andromeda

Mt Athabasca, North Face

Once again we wrapped up the trip with an ascent of the Guinness Gully. Super nice three days.

On Monday I started with the animal himself, Bill K. from San Fransisco. Bill and I have shared some amazing climbs together over the years, but this was his first trip to climb ice in Canada. We started with Guinness Gully, and then made the walk up to the phenomenal Guinness Stout, an extra 80meters of superb WI4+. We went for another mega-classic today and tackled the beautiful Murchison Falls.
Here's Bill coming into the last belay.

It's been fantastic so far. 3 more days to go on this year's Canadian Ice Odyssey. Big Plans!

Cheers, CC

More Canadian Classics!

2010-03-07T11:06:00.000-07:00

Thanks for the Ouray update Kevin! Looks good down there!

Paul and I continue to be on a good streak up here in Canada. Friday we climbed the "Showpiece of the Canadian Rockies", Polar Circus. 2100 feet WI5. Temps have been quite nice, and the ice is in good shape.

Here is a look at the final 90m WI5 headwall on Polar Circus.

Yesterday we went into the Ghost and climbed the famous Wicked Wanda. She wasn't quite as wicked as in years past, but still super fun!
Paul and I have a couple days yet to go, and then I'll start with a fresh crew!

Cheers, CC.

Ice conditions in the San Juans

2010-03-07T06:11:00.000-07:00

In spite of the warm temps as of late the ice climbing remains superb!!

Dexter: Still super fat but likely to have some surface effect from the warm sunny days.

Skylight area: The usual suspects are all in great shape. I hear talk around town of people climbing Killer Pillar. It looks like this area will be good for quite some time.

Ouray Ice Park: FAT CITY! The park is in great shape. Bryson and his crew did an awesome job building things up during the second half of the season. Barring and big rain storms, we'll be climbing in the park for a while. This really is the best time to visit Ouray, the days are getting longer, the weather is great, and the sun actually peeks into the canyon in spots.

Ribbon & Birdbrain: Have seen a few ascents but conditions have been pretty lean. Keep your eyes open though. Many years these climbs will come in quick during March as a result of melt / freeze cycles.

Horsetail: Still in great shape.

Engineer: Hammered by the warm sunny days.

Silverton: Super fat and seeing some traffic since the Avy hazard has calmed down a bit following the previous storm cycles.

Bridalveil & Ames Ice Hose: Still in great shape. First pitch of the Hose is a little thin, the rock start is always a good option.

Thanks for your interest in ice conditions around Ouray. We look forward to seeing you around town.

Happy Trails,
KAK

Canada Ice!

2010-03-06T05:17:00.000-07:00

Hey Gang!

Up in Canmore guiding routes around here. I know its not Ouray conditions, but....

So far, Paul and I have done: Moonlight and 2 low 4 zero in Evan Thomas, Carlsberg Column, Coire Dubh Integrale, and Polar Circus. Despite the warm temps, the ice has been fantastic.

Hope everyone is having a great March down South!

Cheers, CC

San Juan Ice Conditions Update

2010-02-13T19:14:00.000-07:00

Dexter: Still Fat.

Horsetail: Good ice, little snowy. Some guys climbed Bear Creek today as well in "refrozen" conditions.

Skylight: All major flows are good to go. Did all 4 on Friday. Killer Pillar is not fully formed. Tourist Trap and Fractured Fairytales have plenty of ice.

Ice Park: Sweetness everywhere!

Ribbon and Birdbrain: Climbable, I guess. I haven't done either this year.

Engineer: Nada.

Silverton: I'm sure the ice is good, but avi conditions are a bit sketch for us to send guides that way yet.

Bridalveil: Busy, a little different than usual. Definitely IN.

Ice Hose: Good, don't expect gear on the first crux.

Silverpick: Appeared to not be in while driving by.

Ames Ice Hose

2010-02-12T14:51:00.000-07:00

Climbed the Ames Ice Hose on Wednesday with Paul from Seattle. It was good. The first pillar is pretty much all dry hooking in shallow holes with stubbies in rotten blobs for pro, I put in one on the first pillar. The LZ is looking much better though if you do decide to pitch. We linked 1 and 2 together with 70's. The Chimney is super fun, good screws when you want them. The 3rd pitch is awesome as always, true WI4 for 200 feet.

I'm often asked how we break this climb up, so... I like to bring double 70's. Link 1 and 2 to the 2nd set of chains. From there, bump up to the pin anchor high on the upper ledge. 1 more long pitch to the trees on top. I rap with 70's from the lower climber's left tree to the 2nd chain anchor, then to the ground. This is the least shrapnel exposed way to do it. Lot of other variations exist if you only have 60's.

Cheers, CC

2010-02-11T18:35:00.000-07:00

Climbed Bridalveil Tuesday. Rumors of it being thin are greatly exaggerated. It is a little narrower than usual, but was able to get full length screws whenever I wanted one. The first pitch was the standard cauliflower cone, not pumpy just hard to protect, followed by some 4+ ice by going to the right and then back left around a roof. The belay was in a nice ice cave that is big enough for three and well protected just to the left of the obvious line. The second pitch was the crux. A few sections of 5+ moves with excellent rests in between. By trending right at the end there was another great belay stance. It was wide enough for 3-4 people and had a rock roof, so again very well protected. The third pitch is about a half rope length or less of grade 3. Hope this clears up the info and you have as good a time on it as we did.

Stairway

2010-01-16T09:00:00.000-07:00

Climbed Stairway to Heaven - the day after Whore House Hoses - on another picture perfect high pressure day. It was a few degrees below zero when we started, but warmed up pretty quickly as the day progressed.

The crux third pitch was a bit funky with chandelier ice that offered sinker tool placements, but marginal crampon sticks - a bit of gardening required from the footwork to get into solid ground. The steep section of chandelier ice was pretty well unprotectable in those conditions, but it only amounted to around 3-4 body lengths until you were back into the goods.

This year offers a bonus 6th pitch of Grade 2/3 ice for those interested in stretching the climb out.

The walk-off after the 5th pitch is a calf deep boot track all the way to the couloir. Catch it before the next big snow.

Respectfully submitted,

Grey Squirrel

San juan Ice Conditions Update

2010-01-15T12:00:00.000-07:00

Warm weather has changed some routes, so I thought I would post and update.

Ice Park: Fat City

Dexter Creek Slabs: Good Condition

Bride's Veil aka Skyrocket: Not recommended. Was good for a bit, but fragile and hollow now. the top may have fallen down.

Fall Creek/Talisman: Some guys climbed the Ribbon, Birdbrain, and Talisman. Looked sporting, probably not a good idea for the average mortal. But if you fancy yourself a hardman with something to prove...

Skylight climbs: Good shape, some are wet and growing fast.

Horsetail is good, Bear Creek is getting super hollow with the warmth.

Engineer climbs that were in are getting slushy.

Eureka climbs are fat and moderate.

Ames Ice Hose is thin but picked out, fairly standard for the route.

Bridalveil is getting more traffic, standard WI5 conditions.

Not sure about Silverpick and the Bone, probably in though.

That's all I can think of off the top of my head. Give a call if you have questions.

Cheers, Clint 970-325-4925

Whore House Hoses

2010-01-12T17:45:00.000-07:00

Popped over the pass to Eureka today to sample the superb multi-pitch terrain. We saw a party hiking up towards Stairway so elected to climb Whore House Hoses instead.

The climb is in very fat shape along with a nice packed trail right to the base. The first pitch is pretty well bucket steps, but veer right above the 'avocado leaves' and you'll find some superb WI5 ice. We climbed the left side of the final pitch and found perfect plastique conditions and nice steep climbing - probably WI5 minus.

Perhaps my favorite moderate in the range. Great ambiance and currently in excellent condition.

Also included is a photo of Stairway which looks blue and plastic.

Respectfully Submitted,

Grey Squirrel

Lower Ice Park Conditions: Lower Bridge to Shithouse

2010-01-06T18:46:00.001-07:00

Made a walk through the lower park on Wednesday. The ice is super fat everywhere, and the classic mixed routes are climbing well also. Here is the photo tour to get a sense of conditions.

View up from the Lower Bridge, You can see the Brass Tacks area up to the Pick of the Vic. The lead routes that are hidden between are getting more and more consoldated with traffic.

The Boat Ramp and ice on both sides at the Lower Bridge is in great condition.

Lots of pros hanging around climbing mixed routes.Stone Free, TicTac, Dizzy, and the Scottish Gullies

TRing Dizzy with the Vision, one of Ouray's most popular old comp routes.The modern drytooling training route Le Sauccisson, many folks' "first drytooling route". It get infectious when you're watching all these pros right around you, and noone seems to be climbing the ice!Right now you can navigate the bottom all the way from the Lower Bridge to the Shithouse Wall, pretty nice access in the bottom this year. Here is the view of the Fingers as you approach from upstream.
The Thumb and Index all merged together, pretty sweet.The Ventana Buttress showing Icelandic Dream M7+ and Ventana Pillars. The next buttress down, Poodle Sex is not touching, although there are some cool alpine style gullies instead. Fresh descent ropes in the Fingers gully.

The Stump Wall. The Folsom Finger, not quite making it, but some great mixed routes in there instead.

The Park overall is in its best shapes in years.
Enjoy, CC

Ouray Area Conditions

2010-01-06T18:37:00.000-07:00

Here is the latest on the Ouray conditions.

Skylight: A bit thin on some routes, but the standards are good to go.
Ribbon, BirdBrain, and Talisman are not in.

Horsetail/Bear Creek: Both are great right now. That rare opportunity to tag both in a short day.

Sun Splash and Solar Circus are holding ice, but look to be getting sun affected.

Engineer Climbs appear not in, although Abraxas could probably be climbed.

Stairway, Highway, and Whorehouse are fat city. Watch out for hidden ice dams on the rollovers. Its easy to punch through to some chilly water on stepping off some belays.

Ames is hanging tough, and super fun.

Bridalveil continues to be weird this year, only one reported ascent I know of.
Ingraham is reporting touching, not sure about Silverpick, would imagine its climbable though.

Santa Claus Pillar is reported in good condition.

That's all I know off the top off my head. Hope its useful!

1/6/10 CC

Ouray Ice Park

2010-01-02T06:26:00.000-07:00

The Ouray Ice Park is fantastic shape, and ready for the Festival!

I spent the last couple days climbing in the park with some super nice folks from Texas. They picked it up really fast! Below is Parker smoking up Pick of the Vic early on his second day of ice climbing. Impressive! Good technique helps! Perfect Triangles.

We took a little lunch on the Upper Bridge and watched this gentleman crash his way up Root Canal, WI5 Funky! The conditions in the Lead area will make you work right now!

It was getting busy, so we headed down to the Ventana area where we found this sweet and steep WI5+ pillar formed up and feeling solid. I was pretty impressed to see these guys do as well as they did on it. I climbed it afterwards and found it to be continually off-balance and thought provoking. If you are registered for an Advanced Ice clinic at the fest, you might get coached up it as well. It is fantastic.

We've got a few more projects to finish before the fest, but its going to be good one. Lots of pros in town already getting a feel for our unique rock and tuning up for the comp. Good time to watch some serious climbing go down!

Cheers, CC

Stairway to Heaven

2009-12-29T20:35:00.002-07:00

Stairway to Heaven 12/29/09

I had the pleasure of climbing Stairway with two young gentlemen from Berkeley on Tuesday. The route is as big as I have seen it for this time of year. There was every type of ice on the route, from blue steel to sloppy wet goo. The 3rd pitch was a total shower, but it looks like the flow is getting set on the far right so the the far left side of pillar may be drying. We got soaked, but it was a nice day so no big deal. All in all it is in superb shape. There was light snow falling all day, so if it kept up avi conditions could be different.

Cheers, CC.

Horsetail & Stairway

2009-12-22T16:46:00.000-07:00

On Monday Cole & I did Horsetail. It was in primo condition. The middle line on the first pitch was really wet but the far right and left are reasonable. After the first bit the entire route was a gooey highway. We put in threads and rapped the route, back in town for lunch.

Today found us headed for Silverton. Stairway to Heaven is in superb condition. Many nice steep little steps, all sporting great ice (no funky layers). There appears to be a healthy amount of water supplying the route. This will certainly be one of those years it grows to an enourmous size. We opted for the walk off as it appeared to have been well travelled. I couldn't suggest this descent. The upper slopes were funky. All of the rap anchors were burried except the tree at the base of pitch three. Time to put in threads. It was snowing pretty hard when we left today, so things could change a bit for the near future. Enjoy the holidays!

Happy Trails,

Kevin

Ouray Ice Climbing and new Mammut Clothing!!!

2009-12-11T07:41:00.000-07:00

Its been a pretty good early ice season this year, and with more snow in the mountains, routes should continue to grow. The Ouray Ice Park is scheduled to open a week early on Dec 12th. Conditions will be fantastic for the Festival starting Jan 8.. Come out and mingle with top climbers around the world, try gear, and get some good instruction.

I've been happily testing out some new pieces from Mammut this Autumn, and have come up with a few new favorites to add to the arsenal. As always the Tripod helmet is the most comfortable and easiest to use helmet on the market, period. Try one on at the fest, you will buy it and wear it everyday.

In the photo below, I'm starting up a somewhat funky first pitch of the classic Skylight climb. Campo Pants and Jasper Pull are a sweet combo for moderate protection and incredible movement.

This is on the Ames Ice Hose. There was a party on the ice already so we took some laps on the 5.9 rock pitch start. I'm sporting the Base Jump Pants (my everyday favorite for ice and alpine) and the new Extreme Baltoro Jacket. This jacket is great. Superb protection from dripping ice and howling wind, and stretches and climbs perfectly. Excellent for backcountry ice climbing and alpinism.

And finally the Direct North Face in South Mineral, another early season mandatory tune up climb. It was a gorgeous day so I went with the venerable Champ pants and Verglas Jacket.

Thanks to Mammut for all the sweet gear! All the SJMG guides are super-psyched on their uniforms this year. We went with the Extreme Baltoro and Stratus Flash pieces this year and they are excellent. Thanks! Thanks! Thanks!

Respectfully Submitted,
Clint Cook
San Juan Mountain Guides
Ouray, CO

Ouray Ice Park 2009 - Open Soon!!!

2009-12-10T16:40:00.000-07:00

I walked through the park today scouting for our Mountain Rescue training tomorrow. Things really look great. The river is currently low allowing good access to all areas. I was able to move around in the gorge quite easily. The following pictures were taken this afternoon in the park. It looks like climbers visiting on opening day, this Saturday, will be treated to some fine climbing. Please enjoy the pics. See you all Saturday!!
Happy Trails,
KAK

Stump Wall

Below the Lower Bridge

School Room

New Funtier

South Park

2009-12-09T14:34:00.000-07:00

Today a bunch of local climbers spent the morning in the park shoveling snow from lower angle spots so the Ice Farmers can continue taking advantage of the cold temps. We received a relatively small amount of snow in town with this last storm. So the ice making continues as we approach opening day in the park, this Saturday. The park is looking really great. These could be the best conditions we've seen for an opening weekend in several years. Kudos to Mike and his crew for making it happen.

Thanks again to the shoveling crew this morning;

Mike M. - OIPI Board member

Alan C. - Timber Ridge & Antlers Motels

Chachi, Clint, and Kevin - SJMG

Horsetail Falls

2009-12-08T09:41:00.000-07:00

Squeezed in a trip up Horsetail Falls yesterday just prior to the big dump of snow. It had been shaping up nicely this fall and looked to be in superb condition. The river crossing was bomber with around an 8-12 inch ice bridge. Some funky rock steps in the narrows prior to gaining the ice climb proper - the new snow will help that section.

The climb was the proverbial Blue Goo highway! Single-swing thunker goo all the way to the top.

The first pitch (crux) had its typical wetness, perhaps more than usual. The shower was unavoidable for a few moves. On one high stick I had the water running down the shaft of the tool, through my glove and down my arm into my arm pit. Sweet! That combined with a dislodged chunk nailing me in the chin and I knew I was ice climbing again. Good to have winter back.

Respectfully submitted,

Grey Squirrel

The Snow is here

2009-12-06T11:08:00.000-07:00

I'm here in Silverton enjoing the snow fall.
We had about 5 inches of new snow overnight
All the ice routes are on very good condition
and the temps are great and looking forward to do some turns.
Come and visit the San Juans,.
Hasta pronto
Andres